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Toro GMT 200 / Hesston Front Runner

toro gmt hesston frontrunner articulated

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#16 Mark 149 J. ONLINE  

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Posted January 14, 2021 - 10:03 PM

I decided to measure the cylinder bores of this engine.  I measured at the top, middle, and bottom of the stroke.  I also did two measurements 90 degrees from each other at each position.  The bore should be 3.500 inches with a max at 3.503 inches.  The max that I found was 3.501 inches.  The pistons have very little movement at any position in the stroke.  After talking to my friend I've decided to pull one piston out and have a good look at the rings.  Maybe it will help explain why I've seen a lot of oil getting past the rings when it sits.  It will also give me a chance to see the bearing on the connecting rod.  

I also decided to remove the flywheel (Don't use a jaw puller, use a harmonic puller) and stator to make it easier to handle when I remove the oil pan.  These are a heavy engine so any extra metal you can remove makes life easier.

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Edited by Mark 149 J., January 14, 2021 - 11:43 PM.

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#17 Mark 149 J. ONLINE  

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Posted January 14, 2021 - 11:54 PM

Removed one of the pistons.  The top ring gap and the oil ring gap were lined up at about the 2 o'clock position.  Everything looks good.  The oil ring is a 2 piece design that I've never seen before.  I think I will just hone it out a little and replace the rings.  Can't hurt at this point.

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This sat behind the oil ring.  It has an inner wire that slides into an outer like spring.

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This is top and bottom of the oil ring.

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#18 Mark 149 J. ONLINE  

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Posted January 16, 2021 - 11:00 PM

Lots of work done today.  Started up a fire first.

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Modified the seat cutter so I could attach it to my drill on slow speed.  Worked great.

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I only have the exhaust valves so I cutting those seat first.  Once I cut them I also lapped them into the seats.  It's a long process but a necessary one if you want the valves to seal properly.

After cutting.

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After lapping.

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Here is the second exhaust valve.

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Here they are together.  I think they turned out good.  

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Planed both heads on a piece of glass, some sand paper, and water,

Here is the first one.

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Second one is also finished.  Took be about 50 min to do both.

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Edited by Mark 149 J., January 16, 2021 - 11:21 PM.

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#19 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted January 17, 2021 - 05:29 AM

Looking good!


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#20 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted January 17, 2021 - 12:19 PM

Making good progress.  A light honing and new piston rings should ensure good compression and remove any concern about oil leaking by them.


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#21 Mark 149 J. ONLINE  

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Posted January 17, 2021 - 02:15 PM

Making good progress.  A light honing and new piston rings should ensure good compression and remove any concern about oil leaking by them.

 

Because I've decided to put new rings in this engine, I do plan on honing it.  I've decided to take the engine apart so debris from the honing doesn't get into the bearings, cam, oil pump, or crank.  It will me much easier to clean out and it will let me further inspect other parts more closely.  I ordered a complete gasket and seal set from isavetractors.  I will see if they're as good as the rest of the parts that I've bought from them.  Now I have to wait even longer for more parts to arrive.  


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#22 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted January 17, 2021 - 02:23 PM

Will give you time to take the engine apart and inspect / clean up things in preparation for the arrival of the new parts.  Lots of soapy water and rinsing should suspend and make removal of any debris that results from the honing easy and then a light coat of oil which I am sure you already know.


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#23 Mark 149 J. ONLINE  

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Posted January 17, 2021 - 07:18 PM

Disassembled the rest of the motor.  Comes apart fairly easy.  I haven't found any video's on  how to rebuild these engines and the service manual is rather poor on how to dissemble it.  Here is what I figured out.  You must remove the gear cover first.  Start by removing the governor/timing assembly.  Then remove the bolts that hold the gear cover on and the key out of the crank.

Gear cover and Key

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Governor

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Here are the timing marks.  One on crank and two on the cam gear.

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Remove the large cam nut.  Lightly tap the cam gear off. Lift back the solid lifters and pull out the cam.

Sorry no pictures.

Remove the 2 bolts that hold in the oil pump.

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Remove the 3 bolts that hold on the gear cover plate.

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Remove the c clip that holds the timing gear on the crank.

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To get the timing gear off the crank, remove the 4 bolts from the back closer plate.  and use a dead blow hammer on the timing gear end pushing the back closer plate off and removing the gear as well. (Edit the key on the crank for the timing gear put a small scratch in the bearing plate. I would not do it this way again. I would use wooden wedges to remove the gear next time.  Remove the timing gear key and then push the crank back out through the opposite end.)

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There is lots of room to remove the solid lifter once the crank it out.

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Here is the cam and crank front bearing.  

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I will start cleaning, inspecting, measuring up everything tomorrow.

If you have rebuilt one of the K532 or K582 engines please feel free to let me know any tricks or advice.  

Attached Thumbnails

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Edited by Mark 149 J., January 18, 2021 - 07:29 PM.

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#24 Mark 149 J. ONLINE  

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Posted January 18, 2021 - 07:20 PM

Started cleaning and inspecting everything.  Started with the crank.  Tried to remove the end plate by removing this large C-clip.  Bought a larger C-clip pliers but it still wouldn't take it off.  I need this plate off so I can replace the crank seal.

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Measured the crank journals and the connecting rod large end and everything is within specs.  Hopefully I'm done buying parts!

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Next up was honing.  First time using this Leslie hone that I bought 3 years ago.  Once I figured out how to set it up and properly adjust it we got right to work and did both cylinders.  

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Here you can see the cross hatch for both cylinders.

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Edited by Mark 149 J., January 18, 2021 - 07:23 PM.

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#25 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted January 18, 2021 - 08:12 PM

Could always make your own tool to remove the C clip.  Two pieces of round stock or grade 5 bolts ground or turned down at the end to the right size to fit the holes at the end.  Weld each one to a piece of flat steel and drill a hole in each piece to form a pivot point - worn out pair of large vise grips might work as well.  Just a suggestion to try if you cannot find a big enough snap ring tool.


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#26 Mark 149 J. ONLINE  

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Posted January 19, 2021 - 12:46 AM

Could always make your own tool to remove the C clip.  Two pieces of round stock or grade 5 bolts ground or turned down at the end to the right size to fit the holes at the end.  Weld each one to a piece of flat steel and drill a hole in each piece to form a pivot point - worn out pair of large vise grips might work as well.  Just a suggestion to try if you cannot find a big enough snap ring tool.

Good suggestion.  I might have to do that if I can't find what I need for the right price.


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#27 Mark 149 J. ONLINE  

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Posted January 20, 2021 - 08:09 PM

Had more fun today.  Didn't have much time but I finished cutting the intake valve seats today.  This cutter makes quick work of the seats.  I finished up with lapping them for a nice tight seat.

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Finished valves after lapping.

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Got a new C-Clip pliers today so I could remove the end plate from the crank.  Now I can clean up the bearing and replace the rear crank seal.

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I also replaced the diaphragm in the fuel pump from isavetractors.  As far I know they are the only company making a replaceable diaphragm for the metal kohler fuel pumps.  It was a lot cheaper then a new fuel pump.

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Edited by Mark 149 J., January 21, 2021 - 12:43 PM.

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#28 Mark 149 J. ONLINE  

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Posted January 23, 2021 - 07:47 PM

The engine is on hold until I get some more parts so I turned my attention to some of the electrical work.  I pulled off the front headlight/steering column cover.  Found some very poor wiring repair on the headlight wires.  The power for the headlights is designed to be easy to unplug once you remove the column cover so you can set it aside easily.  Somebody in the past must have pinched a headlight wire causing a short and melting some wire.  I was able to fix what they had done with a short piece of wire, shrink tubing, solder, and electrical tape.  I need to buy a new fuse holder for the dash because the top is long gone.  The headlight lenses need new seals and lens polished.  They are really cloudy.  I also cleaned the wire contacts on the amp meter and headlight switch.  They both checked out for continuity as well.  Had my son mix of some baking soda and water to neutralized the acid on the battery tray.  Dried it off good and sprayed it with rust reformer.  Should be ready for some Toro red tomorrow.  Finished up with two new hydro hose connects for the power steering at the ram as well.  

Here is the wiring problem.

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Bullet connects are used to power the headlights.

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Headlight lenses are very cloudy and dirty switch.

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Needs a new fuse holder for the dash.

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battery tray ready for paint.

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Steering ram with new fittings.

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#29 Mark 149 J. ONLINE  

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Posted January 26, 2021 - 12:16 AM

Another productive night of tear down and inspection.  It was time for the wheels to come off.  I pulled all 4 wheel off and found a birds nest of wire on each axle.  Somebody must have attached an electric fence while taking it off road.  Might explain why the start mounting point was broken.  I also removed the one wheel brake and disc.  That was different!  I was expecting two but apparently no it's only one.  Finished up with cleaning the bottom of the axle housing getting it ready for draining the hydro fluid.

Bird nests 1,2,3, and 4

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All the wire is removed.

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Removed the single brake caliper and rotor removed the two retaining bolts and it all falls apart. 

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This brake lever sits between the back of the caliper and the back brake pad.  When you push on the pedal those bumps cause a wedging affect making it stop.  Very weird design with only one brake caliper and rotor.

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Caliper bracket.

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Cleaned the bottom of the axle/hydro unit. Getting ready to change the fluid and filter.

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This area is the suction tube/drain point for the whole hydro system.

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This is the top view of the fill point.

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Bottom view of the fill plug.

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#30 secondtry OFFLINE  

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Posted January 26, 2021 - 09:25 AM

Looks like a braking system that they never really expected any one to use.

  Don


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