Jump to content

Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

Toro GMT 200 / Hesston Front Runner

toro gmt hesston frontrunner articulated

  • Please log in to reply
75 replies to this topic

#1 Mark 149 J. ONLINE  

Mark 149 J.

    Mark J.

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 78623
  • 4072 Thanks
  • 2142 posts
  • Location: Kennewick, Washington

Posted January 02, 2021 - 05:24 PM

After a year and half I'm finally getting back to work on my Toro GMT 200.  I purchased this in May of 2019 in North central Washington State.  Here is the link for when I first purchased it.   https://gardentracto...hl=toro gmt 200

 

Here is what she looked like when I started today.

20210102_114942.jpg 20210102_114948.jpg 20210102_115004.jpg

I purchase a used Kohler k532 at a tractor show about 1 years ago.  It ran good when I purchased it but I think I will pull the heads and see what everything looks like before I put it into the tractor.  

I pulled the old engine to see what difference there are between the two engines.  It looks like I can switch over the oil filter adapter, engine coupler, and the pulley for the hydraulic steering pump driving at the back of the motor.  I'm no sure about the exhaust yet.  Do I keep the original type setup or go with something different.  

20210102_123537.jpg 20210102_123540.jpg

 

Comparing the new and old engine.

20210102_130030.jpg 20210102_130126.jpg 20210102_130050.jpg 20210102_130211.jpg 20210102_130730.jpg

 

Engine to hydro coupler

20210102_132355.jpg 20210102_132400.jpg

 

The crank is the same diameter but the new engine is 4.25 in. long while the old was only 2.75 in.  Don't know if that will be a problem or if I will have to cut the extra length off.  Don't think cutting the extra off will have any effect on how the engine will run.

20210102_130500.jpg 20210102_130519.jpg 20210102_130504.jpg

 


  • Bruce Dorsi, boyscout862, Austen and 3 others have said thanks

#2 Mark 149 J. ONLINE  

Mark 149 J.

    Mark J.

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 78623
  • 4072 Thanks
  • 2142 posts
  • Location: Kennewick, Washington

Posted January 02, 2021 - 05:36 PM

Here are some more pictures.

Under the engine I found the central pivot point.  I removed the dust cover and everything looks good.  I will remove the old grease and add some new grease.  

20210102_124420.jpg 20210102_124426.jpg 20210102_124432.jpg 20210102_124742.jpg 20210102_124721.jpg

 

I will remove the gas tank.  Clean out the rust and dirt and hopefully it won't leak.  

20210102_115020.jpg 20210102_115030.jpg

 

Some welding needs to be done on the bed.  

20210102_115039.jpg 20210102_115049.jpg

 

Looks like it was bought in Spokane Washington.

20210102_115237.jpg


  • Alc, jms180, Bruce Dorsi and 1 other said thanks

#3 tractorskipper OFFLINE  

tractorskipper
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 25019
  • 1215 Thanks
  • 725 posts
  • Location: Thomas Mills PA

Posted January 02, 2021 - 10:32 PM

That is one really interesting machine.  Would really like to be playing with it myself!  Will be keeping my eye out for one for sure.  Have fun & a great start to a new year.


  • Mark 149 J. and Mr. Bill have said thanks

#4 Mark 149 J. ONLINE  

Mark 149 J.

    Mark J.

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 78623
  • 4072 Thanks
  • 2142 posts
  • Location: Kennewick, Washington

Posted January 04, 2021 - 04:54 PM

I was just looking at the engine tag on the new motor.  I think is says k582 not k532.  That means it's a 23 hp not 20 hp.  I'm fine with that.


  • KennyP said thank you

#5 Mark 149 J. ONLINE  

Mark 149 J.

    Mark J.

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 78623
  • 4072 Thanks
  • 2142 posts
  • Location: Kennewick, Washington

Posted January 05, 2021 - 12:27 AM

I started taking the heads off of the replacement motor tonight.  There was a fair amount of carbon build up on everything but that will clean up of easy enough.  There was no indication of a leaky head gasket.  The gaskets are in great shape so I will reused them.  They have the fire ring.  I did find 3 burnt valves.  2 exhaust and 1 intake.  The guy I bought the engine from said he though it might have burnt valves so no surprise there.   The valve seat look to be in good condition.  I will lap the valves to the seats when I assemble it back together. The engines uses an early exhaust valve 48-01601.  They're more expensive then the later models but I was able to find some for a reasonable price.  The intake were about half the price of the exhaust.  I'm also getting some Rust oleum Apple Red tomorrow so I can get the engine painted while I wait for parts.  

20210104_164551.jpg 20210104_164459.jpg 20210104_164421.jpg

 

The piston are standard and the cylinder walls look to be in great shape.

20210104_164325.jpg 20210104_160410.jpg


  • KennyP said thank you

#6 EricFromPa OFFLINE  

EricFromPa

    Fixer of Broken junk

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2135
  • 6771 Thanks
  • 4562 posts
  • Location: Bedford County Pa.

Posted January 05, 2021 - 02:07 AM

Intake Valves should be the same as the K241-K341. Early Exhaust Valves should be the same as a K241, K301 and early K321.

 

I'm guessing yours has the smaller exhaust valves? Both intake and exhaust valves are Probably the same 1-3/8" intake and 1-1/8" exhaust valves that's in a K241, K301 and early K321.

 

Some of the early K321s had 1-1/8" exhaust valves then went to the larger 1-3/8" exhaust valve as well.

 

Just read that some of the early K582 valves were ground to a 30* valve angle. I would almost want to re-cut the seats to 45*/46* like the single cylinders which will drop the valve in the seat a bit deeper. That will keep them from burning up nearly as fast. 

 

Do you know someone close by that might have a 45* cutter and arbor set that you could borrow for an hour or 2?


Edited by EricFromPa, January 05, 2021 - 02:16 AM.

  • KennyP and Mark 149 J. have said thanks

#7 Mark 149 J. ONLINE  

Mark 149 J.

    Mark J.

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 78623
  • 4072 Thanks
  • 2142 posts
  • Location: Kennewick, Washington

Posted January 05, 2021 - 10:42 AM

Intake Valves should be the same as the K241-K341. Early Exhaust Valves should be the same as a K241, K301 and early K321.

 

I'm guessing yours has the smaller exhaust valves? Both intake and exhaust valves are Probably the same 1-3/8" intake and 1-1/8" exhaust valves that's in a K241, K301 and early K321.

 

Some of the early K321s had 1-1/8" exhaust valves then went to the larger 1-3/8" exhaust valve as well.

 

Just read that some of the early K582 valves were ground to a 30* valve angle. I would almost want to re-cut the seats to 45*/46* like the single cylinders which will drop the valve in the seat a bit deeper. That will keep them from burning up nearly as fast. 

 

Do you know someone close by that might have a 45* cutter and arbor set that you could borrow for an hour or 2?

I didn't even think about the angle of the seat being different.   I just figured it was the size of the valve that was causing the cost to be so much more.  I'm going to check with my brother about getting the seat cut to a 45.  He may know somebody in the rat rod community that he's a part of that can help me.  

Thanks for the information!


  • EricFromPa and KennyP have said thanks

#8 Mark 149 J. ONLINE  

Mark 149 J.

    Mark J.

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 78623
  • 4072 Thanks
  • 2142 posts
  • Location: Kennewick, Washington

Posted January 05, 2021 - 08:22 PM

I think I figured out what made the previous owner stop using this machine.  While I was taking the starter off the old motor it fell off the engine.  Look like the starter was hit causing the mounting plate for the starter to break.  I will post pictures later. The first pictures is where the start mount should be.  The second picture shows the broken piece still attached to the starter.

20210105_163946.jpg 20210105_163940.jpg

 

Here is what it should look like.

20210105_170419.jpg


Edited by Mark 149 J., January 06, 2021 - 01:14 AM.

  • KennyP and Austen have said thanks

#9 Mark 149 J. ONLINE  

Mark 149 J.

    Mark J.

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 78623
  • 4072 Thanks
  • 2142 posts
  • Location: Kennewick, Washington

Posted January 06, 2021 - 01:05 AM

I removed the belt pully from the back of the old engine today.  It doesn't have a set screw or a key to keep it from spinning on the crank.  It has a 2 piece pully that wedges the pully against the crank when you tighten 2 small bolts.  I've never seen a pully designed like this.  I used a harmonic balance puller to get it off.  I came apart very easily.

You can see the 2 small bolts in this picture.

20210102_130504.jpg

It has 2 more threaded holes for the puller to attach so you can remove the inner wedge ring.

20210105_161658.jpg 20210105_162114.jpg 20210105_162119.jpg 20210105_162123.jpg 20210105_162233.jpg 20210105_162244.jpg

 

I also removed the oil filter adapter from the old engine.  It has a drip tray that attached between the block and the filter adapter.  Should make changing the oil less messy.  

20210105_164224.jpg 20210105_164503.jpg

 

I also removed the hose bypass and fittings from the new engine.  I need to order some new gaskets before I finish installing the filter adapter.  

20210105_164629.jpg 20210105_165213.jpg 20210105_170407.jpg


  • KennyP and Austen have said thanks

#10 KennyP OFFLINE  

KennyP

    FORDoholic

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2253
  • 52500 Thanks
  • 53091 posts
  • Location: Collinsville, Oklahoma

Posted January 06, 2021 - 05:51 AM

Those other two holes in the hub are so you can screw the small bolts in there and push the pulley off the hub.


  • Mark 149 J. said thank you

#11 Mark 149 J. ONLINE  

Mark 149 J.

    Mark J.

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 78623
  • 4072 Thanks
  • 2142 posts
  • Location: Kennewick, Washington

Posted January 06, 2021 - 01:33 PM

Those other two holes in the hub are so you can screw the small bolts in there and push the pulley off the hub.

Thanks

Had I cleaned off the crank it probably would have come off a lot easier.  


  • Austen said thank you

#12 Mark 149 J. ONLINE  

Mark 149 J.

    Mark J.

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 78623
  • 4072 Thanks
  • 2142 posts
  • Location: Kennewick, Washington

Posted January 06, 2021 - 07:12 PM

I did more inspecting and clean up work today.  First up was the front steering column.  I popped off the front cover and found it to be dirty with wasp nest, corrosion on the switches, poor wiring fix, and needing some attention.  The hour meter was also disconnected.  Hopefully most of the switches will clean up.

Here's what it looked like. 

20210106_125824.jpg 20210106_125831.jpg 20210106_125855.jpg 20210106_130146.jpg 20210106_130151.jpg 20210106_130341.jpg 20210106_130347.jpg

 

I had my son remove the fuel tank so we can start getting it cleaned out.  It's fairly thick steel so hoping for no rust holes. It was held on with one bolt and then it slid right off.  Found the fuel filter had rusted out, a piece of plastic pipe in the tank, rusty shutoff valve, and dumped out a large pile of rust.  Hopefully it cleans up good.

20210106_130751.jpg 20210106_131109.jpg 20210106_131237.jpg 20210106_130852.jpg 20210106_131122.jpg


  • KennyP, Austen and 29 Chev have said thanks

#13 Mark 149 J. ONLINE  

Mark 149 J.

    Mark J.

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 78623
  • 4072 Thanks
  • 2142 posts
  • Location: Kennewick, Washington

Posted January 06, 2021 - 07:23 PM

Found a broken hydraulic hose.  Finally figured out that it should be attached to the steering ram.  Luckily it was just a broken fitting that can easily be replaced.  I took off the ram while I was at it.  Looks to be in very good condition with no rust on the shaft.  

20210106_135714.jpg 20210106_135719.jpg 20210106_135740.jpg 20210106_135937.jpg 20210106_135952.jpg 20210106_140007.jpg

 

The last thing I did was start cleaning the sheet metal of the engine.  Had some pieces that were bent, rusty, and greasy.  Went to work with a wire brush in my angled air die grinder.  The air turned dirty very quickly.  Happy with the progress. 


Edited by Mark 149 J., January 06, 2021 - 07:33 PM.

  • KennyP and Austen have said thanks

#14 Mark 149 J. ONLINE  

Mark 149 J.

    Mark J.

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 78623
  • 4072 Thanks
  • 2142 posts
  • Location: Kennewick, Washington

Posted January 13, 2021 - 07:55 PM

I did some more work on the engine today.  Trying to get it ready for when all my parts show up.  I've bought all 4 valves, gaskets for the oil filter adapter, fuel pump rebuild kit, valve seat cutter, wire brushes, and painting materials.

20210113_155648.jpg 20210113_154803.jpg 20210113_160039.jpg

The valves are part number exhaust 48-01601.  These are early production valves from the spec. number 36202 engine.  They are not easy to find at a good price.  They fit nicely in the valve guides.  The intake are part number 235008.  These are cheaper because a lot of the Kohler K single cylinders used this same valve.  Both valves are a 45 degree angle not 30 like I was thinking.  

 

I removed a lot of carbon from the valve seat areas and from the heads.  I will be plaining the heads on a piece of glass and sandpaper to make sure the heads are flat.  My son did clean up on the inside of the tin work.  There was a lot of rust that needed cleaning and converted.  

20210113_155544.jpg 20210113_155146.jpg 20210113_154930.jpg 20210113_154904.jpg

 

"isave tractors" sells the rebuild kit for these fuel pumps. They must have just started selling them because they didn't have them in the summer of 2019.  The kit comes with a new gasket, spring and diaphragm for $10.  That is a lot cheaper then a new pump.  I've used their parts before without any problems. 

20210113_154830.jpg 20210113_154826.jpg 20210113_154837.jpg


Edited by Mark 149 J., January 13, 2021 - 08:10 PM.

  • KennyP, Austen and 29 Chev have said thanks

#15 Mark 149 J. ONLINE  

Mark 149 J.

    Mark J.

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 78623
  • 4072 Thanks
  • 2142 posts
  • Location: Kennewick, Washington

Posted January 13, 2021 - 11:21 PM

My valve seat cutter arrived tonight so I took it to the shop to cut some seats.  I'll do a separate right up about it later once I have a better feel for it.  So far, I'm happy with it but I've only done one exhaust seat.  I'm not an expert on cutting seats so I refreshed what I learned in engine rebuild class, I took 30 years ago, by watching some youtube videos.  That was very helpful.  The import thing to remember is keep the valve seat centered on the valve face.  This way heat dissipates from the valve to the seat and thus into the block.  This will reduce the chance of a burnt valve.  You can use a dry erase marker on the valve seat to help you see how they touch. 

20210113_183414.jpg 20210113_183431.jpg 20210113_185842.jpg 20210113_185859.jpg 20210113_193351.jpg 20210113_194026.jpg

 

I will still lap the valves when I'm done to ensure a nice tight seat.  


  • KennyP, Austen and 29 Chev have said thanks





Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: toro, gmt, hesston, frontrunner, articulated

Top