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7 hp vertical shaft Briggs running rough

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#1 jcp7hp OFFLINE  

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Posted November 19, 2020 - 10:58 AM

I've been having a issue with my 7hp flathead vertical shaft Briggs and stratton engine. It has been running rough. Real rough. It runs poorly. Most commonly it will occasionally stall and then run when the throttle lever is moved. It depends on what it likes, Sometimes it will stall and it will want less throttle, then sometimes it will want choke! It has a large flo jet carb. Looks very prehistoric and gross lookin. So I would prefer not to take it off the engine. What is the issue? back in 2017 i put a light amount of seafoam in the gas and it ran really good. Till it sat again for a year and now runs the same as it did when i first got it out the junk pile! It also at a higher throttle level surges, Quite badly. Not saying its a problem, It just may contribute... any suggestions? Again sea foam fixed it in 2017. Ran great till it sat and i revived it... think it could use some more seafoam? 

 

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-jcp


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#2 jcp7hp OFFLINE  

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Posted November 19, 2020 - 11:00 AM

Here’s some pics

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#3 Bruce Dorsi OFFLINE  

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Posted November 19, 2020 - 11:15 AM

Start with adding seafoam again.  -- It's the easiest fix, if it works.


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#4 Banjopicker10 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 19, 2020 - 11:25 AM

Tear the carb down and clean the jets out with carb cleaner and small pieces of wire(i use 0.09 banjo strings)


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#5 EricFromPa ONLINE  

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Posted November 19, 2020 - 11:34 AM

Medium 2 piece flo jet. 

 

How I do a Quick cleaning of a Flo Jet carb without dissembling the carb.

 

Turn your gas off or crimp the fuel line shut. Then take the main needle out and let the carb drain. (top nut not the bottom or it will leak.The bottom nut has a leather packing washer in to keep the needle from leaking.The leather will be rock hard and never seal again if you take it apart) 

 

hqdefault.jpg

 

When that is out and it's done spewing gas out stick the small plastic hose of a can of Carb and Choke cleaner Partly up in the hole and spray the heck out of it. Then stick it up the hole as far as it will go and give it a couple quick squirts. This will force any small objects or gunk that might be lodged in the main nozzle up and out through the idle circuit and into the main body where it will be sucked into the intake and safely burnt.

 

Reinstall the main needle and turn your gas on and let it sit for a minute or 2 then try to start it. If you shot carb cleaner up through the main nozzle and it is actually clean it should run much better.

 

If it doesn't run any better you will have to take the carb off and take it apart and give it a good thorough cleaning inside and out. You will probably rip the gasket in the carb if it's never been apart before so if you have to take it apart you should buy a carb kit for it before you take it apart.

 

Or you could try putting a cheap aftermarket carb on it?

https://www.amazon.c...470245081&psc=1


Edited by EricFromPa, November 19, 2020 - 11:39 AM.

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#6 afarmboy OFFLINE  

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Posted November 19, 2020 - 11:50 AM

Tear the carb down and clean the jets out with carb cleaner and small pieces of wire(i use 0.09 banjo strings)

Another handyman secret weapon... banjo strings? :thumbs:


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#7 Banjopicker10 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 19, 2020 - 11:52 AM

Another handyman secret weapon... banjo strings? :thumbs:

I never throw anything away everything gets a second life


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#8 afarmboy OFFLINE  

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Posted November 19, 2020 - 12:06 PM

I never throw anything away everything gets a second life

I'm afraid I have that problem too...


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#9 jcp7hp OFFLINE  

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Posted November 19, 2020 - 12:06 PM

Medium 2 piece flo jet. 

 

How I do a Quick cleaning of a Flo Jet carb without dissembling the carb.

 

Turn your gas off or crimp the fuel line shut. Then take the main needle out and let the carb drain. (top nut not the bottom or it will leak.The bottom nut has a leather packing washer in to keep the needle from leaking.The leather will be rock hard and never seal again if you take it apart) 

 

attachicon.gifhqdefault.jpg

 

When that is out and it's done spewing gas out stick the small plastic hose of a can of Carb and Choke cleaner Partly up in the hole and spray the heck out of it. Then stick it up the hole as far as it will go and give it a couple quick squirts. This will force any small objects or gunk that might be lodged in the main nozzle up and out through the idle circuit and into the main body where it will be sucked into the intake and safely burnt.

 

Reinstall the main needle and turn your gas on and let it sit for a minute or 2 then try to start it. If you shot carb cleaner up through the main nozzle and it is actually clean it should run much better.

 

If it doesn't run any better you will have to take the carb off and take it apart and give it a good thorough cleaning inside and out. You will probably rip the gasket in the carb if it's never been apart before so if you have to take it apart you should buy a carb kit for it before you take it apart.

 

Or you could try putting a cheap aftermarket carb on it?

https://www.amazon.c...470245081&psc=1

 

thanks Eric! And thanks to all who helped! I will first try some sea foam, if that don’t help,  will do what Eric said. Then if all bad, I’ll just do a carb cleaning. 


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#10 EricFromPa ONLINE  

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Posted November 19, 2020 - 12:49 PM

If you have to take it apart.The Large Medium and small Briggs Flo Jet carbs all come apart the same way.

 

 

You have to remove the main needle and Emulsion tube that's up inside where the main needle screws in on a flo jet before splitting the carb apart. You will either badly bend or break the emulsion tube off if you try to split the carb without removing it 1st. It runs up though the bottom of the carb at an angle and into the top of the carb near the idle jet.

 

Make 100% sure that you use a flat sided straight screwdriver to take the Emulsion tube out. A normal screwdriver has wide shoulders and a narrowed tip. The tip will either be to small and narrow or the shoulders will be to wide to fit the hole. A #10 Flat impact BIT will fit and that is what I use because they are much harder steel that a normal screwdriver and they do not have shoulders.

 

Briggs actually sells a special screwdrivers for removing the emulsion tubes. Not sure if this is the correct size but as you can see they are made pretty cheap and cost a good bit for what they are. https://www.amazon.c...r/dp/B002WNSY1U

 

I have a couple cheap sets of bits like these and they work good. You can use them with a 1/4" socket and 1/4 drive ratchet or a bit driver.  https://www.amazon.c...5806726&sr=8-46     

 

You can grind the shoulders off of a regular straight screw driver and use that as long as it fits the slot tightly and does not come in contact with the threads.Those are fine threads in soft aluminum. They can get screwed up very very easily. 


Edited by EricFromPa, November 19, 2020 - 12:59 PM.

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#11 jcp7hp OFFLINE  

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Posted November 19, 2020 - 12:54 PM

If you have to take it apart.

 

You have to remove the main needle and Emulsion tube that's up inside where the main needle screws in on a flo jet before splitting the carb apart. You will either badly bend or break the emulsion tube off if you try to split the carb without removing it 1st. It runs up though the bottom of the carb at an angle and into the top of the carb near the idle jet.

 

Make 100% sure that you use a flat sided straight screwdriver to take the Emulsion tube out. A normal screwdriver has wide shoulders and a narrowed tip. The tip will either be to small and narrow or the shoulders will be to wide to fit the hole. A #10 Flat impact BIT will fit and that is what I use because they are much harder steel that a normal screwdriver and they do not have shoulders.

 

Briggs actually sells a special screwdrivers for removing the emulsion tubes. Not sure if this is the correct size but as you can see they are made pretty cheap and cost a good bit for what they are. https://www.amazon.c...r/dp/B002WNSY1U

 

I have a couple cheap sets of bits like these and they work good. You can use them with a 1/4" socket and 1/4 drive ratchet or a bit driver.  https://www.amazon.c...5806726&sr=8-46     

 

You can grind the shoulders off of a regular straight screw driver and use that as long as it fits the slot tightly and does not come in contact with the threads.Those are fine threads in soft aluminum. They can get screwed up very very easily. 

 

Thanks so much, Do you happen to know the model engine i have? i probably need a new coil. Its half way chewed through. Its a 7 hp vertical shaft Flathead Briggs and stratton engine. I think its a short block. the numbers are too hard to read. i cant find anything on it. Whatever it is its a great engine! 


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#12 jcp7hp OFFLINE  

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Posted November 19, 2020 - 02:03 PM

And also, a kind of off topic question, Is it normal for me to have to slightly move the tractor forward or backward, or slightly release the clutch out before it fully goes in gear? Its just strait cut gears and the gears seem to not fully mesh sometimes depending on weather they are in a mesh-able spot. Even when the tractor was new it did this. Is it normal? The only thing is a whine noise when in self propelled motion. The gears do have grease on them, Quite a lot actually. I peeked inside the tranny case and saw the grease on the gears. Gears look in great shape. Is this a issue, or am i just paranoid. And more important to my attention, Is the need to slightly move before the gear lever can fully go in gear a problem? 

 

A big thanks to whoever replies...


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#13 afarmboy OFFLINE  

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Posted November 19, 2020 - 04:20 PM

And also, a kind of off topic question, Is it normal for me to have to slightly move the tractor forward or backward, or slightly release the clutch out before it fully goes in gear? Its just strait cut gears and the gears seem to not fully mesh sometimes depending on weather they are in a mesh-able spot. Even when the tractor was new it did this. Is it normal? The only thing is a whine noise when in self propelled motion. The gears do have grease on them, Quite a lot actually. I peeked inside the tranny case and saw the grease on the gears. Gears look in great shape. Is this a issue, or am i just paranoid. And more important to my attention, Is the need to slightly move before the gear lever can fully go in gear a problem? 

 

A big thanks to whoever replies...

You might want to make this its own topic, not sure if anyone will see it here. That's just me though.


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#14 jcp7hp OFFLINE  

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Posted November 19, 2020 - 05:46 PM

You might want to make this its own topic, not sure if anyone will see it here. That's just me though.

thank you, I did.


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#15 4getgto OFFLINE  

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Posted November 19, 2020 - 05:57 PM

Start with adding seafoam again.  -- It's the easiest fix, if it works.

And I'd make it a heavier dose..
Won't hurt a thing if it works. I've had some luck with it.
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