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12 hp kholer more power


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#1 Braeden Harkin OFFLINE  

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Posted October 03, 2020 - 06:59 PM

I have a few questions about my 12 hp kholer then engine got a Stock rebuild 1 year ago and I’m looking to get more power with out building the engine.

1 will a carb spacer giver more power
2 can I get more rpm’s with out tearing apart the engine and leaving the govner installed
3 how can I get more power without rebuilding the motor

Also I talked to some pepole in my pulling club and they siad turf tires are better for stock class tractor pulling and will help me hook better and not spin as much?

Also this might be a stupid question, I hear people talk about milling there heads will that help with my engine
And what would this do performance wise? And if so how do I go about having somebody mill it?




Video of me pulling Also the link is another video you need to download it to watch it.

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Edited by Braeden Harkin, October 03, 2020 - 07:35 PM.

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#2 ducky OFFLINE  

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Posted October 03, 2020 - 10:10 PM

Hi Braeden

Lot of questions there.

1. Carb spacer,  can help with the amount of air your engine will inhale.  Needs to be done on a dyno to make it work and get the correct length.

2. Yes. until it comes apart.  If this is a stock engine I would say 4000-4500 before you have a surprise.  Anything more and you will have to look at engine work.

3. RPMs is about all you have. That and tune the engine to the max. Play with fuel and timing to get the max.


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#3 LilysDad ONLINE  

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Posted October 04, 2020 - 05:44 AM

Porting and polishing will give a little bit . . .     same with milling the head. But in order to make it all work, you really need the cam up-grade.


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#4 DChappy OFFLINE  

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Posted October 04, 2020 - 06:11 AM

Kohler is good about putting all of their info out there for you to use. Service manual will help you in governor settings.

 

https://kohlerpower....engines/manuals

 

http://resources.koh...8190.1601809658


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#5 4getgto ONLINE  

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Posted October 04, 2020 - 06:48 AM

Braeden..I watched your video. Impressive. Looks like it hooks up pretty good.
Can't help with your power question other than these garden tractor pullers take this real seriously. And a pretty fat wallet... From what I've seen its pretty tough to compete with these guys if you stay stock. Even the the stock guys aren't stock,they just hide things better..!

Edited by 4getgto, October 04, 2020 - 06:49 AM.

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#6 Braeden Harkin OFFLINE  

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Posted October 04, 2020 - 07:15 AM

Porting and polishing will give a little bit . . . same with milling the head. But in order to make it all work, you really need the cam up-grade.


Lily’s dad what cam would I need?

Edited by Braeden Harkin, October 04, 2020 - 07:16 AM.


#7 Braeden Harkin OFFLINE  

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Posted October 04, 2020 - 07:20 AM

Hi Braeden
Lot of questions there.
1. Carb spacer,  can help with the amount of air your engine will inhale.  Needs to be done on a dyno to make it work and get the correct length.
2. Yes. until it comes apart.  If this is a stock engine I would say 4000-4500 before you have a surprise.  Anything more and you will have to look at engine work.
3. RPMs is about all you have. That and tune the engine to the max. Play with fuel and timing to get the max.

Thank you for this information.

#8 LilysDad ONLINE  

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Posted October 04, 2020 - 07:31 AM

Lily’s dad what cam would I need?

That's hard to say. It's like drag racing, everyone is using something different. It's about the total package, Cam, carb and jetting, improving flow, head design, what RPM and better flywheel. Did you know that Kohler used different heads over the years? Guys in stock class will sometimes try to cheat by using a cam from a K-361 which has a little more dwell. Look on the internet for Brian Miller's Tips and Tricks for pulling engines.


Edited by LilysDad, October 04, 2020 - 07:32 AM.

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#9 EricFromPa ONLINE  

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Posted October 04, 2020 - 01:18 PM

Do Not go above 4200 rpm with a stock cast iron flywheel. A stock cast iron flywheel will fly apart and they can kill people. I've seen 1 fly apart and punch a hole through the side of a steel building more than 20 foot away.

Even with a Billet flywheel you will have to run a scatter shield if you run above a certain RPM. That RPM should be stated in your club rules.

 

If you mill the head more than around .020 you are going to have to mill out the valve pockets so that your valves do not hit the head especially if you use the thin copper head gasket. If you are running a hi lift/longer duration cam with in it do not mill the head, buy an aftermarket billet head.

 

 

As far as traction goes. The clay will clog up in the tread of a regular Turf tire after about 10 foot or so unless you cut every other lug off of the tire. A cleated turf tire works good on hard clay but if they wet the track down they can clog up as well.  These things grip pretty darn good in clay. Very similar tread pattern to the original tires on the old Sears Suburbans. https://www.ebay.com...fMAAOSwXrhXmjp8 and in 26x12.00-12 https://www.ebay.com...EsAAOSwqfNXmjQt

 

 

Dirt tends to sling out of an AG tire. You can cut and dish AG tires for more traction but if you want to get serious axle breaking traction look into a set of pulling tires. These puppies really grip in the hard clay. They are expensive but you get what you pay for.  https://www.millerti...-pulling-tire/ 



#10 Dieselcubmike OFFLINE  

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Posted October 10, 2020 - 07:52 PM

So the big question would be before even thinking about doing any kinds of engine work is, what are you club rules? No sense in doing work only to be kicked out. Here's my advice for you

 

1. Carb spacers only work with other supporting mods. You need more fuel and more air in order for it to work properly. Putting a carb spacer on a stock engine does absolutely nothing and in some cases actually causes you to loose power.

2.Yes you can definitely gain more rpms by holding the governor open BUT DO NOT DO IT WITHOUT A BILLET FLYWHEEL!!! You are essentially turning a 50 year old grenade around and run the risk of seriously injuring or killing someone/multiple people. I also highly advise you to run flywheel and clutch covers including the front pulley.

3. If you want more performance you're gonna have to tear the engine down plain and simple. Cam work, port and polish, milling the head will work but you have to mill out the valve pockets like eric mentioned. Main thing is to balance your rotation assembly. 

4. As far as traction, you need to learn where to place your weights. Riding the wheelie bars hurts your distance. Ideally you want your front wheels to lightly hover about the ground for best results. Turf tires work wonders but on only certain tracks and certain lug types work. 






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