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1915 model-T streetrod


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#1 jdcrawler ONLINE  

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Posted July 21, 2020 - 03:15 PM

The project that I had been working on is finished so I'm ready to start on the T.

I took it down to the carwash and it cleaned up a lot better then I had thought it would.

 

This has rack&pinion power steering and power brakes.
The 57 Hemi engine has a Chevy water pump, starter and 700R-4 automatic transmission adapted to it.

 

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Edited by jdcrawler, July 21, 2020 - 03:36 PM.

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#2 Bruce Dorsi ONLINE  

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Posted July 21, 2020 - 03:18 PM

Please keep us updated on your progress, Ray.


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#3 Kyocum OFFLINE  

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Posted July 21, 2020 - 03:53 PM

Hey that thing got a hemi in it. LOL


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#4 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted July 21, 2020 - 04:33 PM

Gonna put wheelie bars on it?


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#5 hamman OFFLINE  

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Posted July 21, 2020 - 04:57 PM

Nice, can't wait to see it's progress and finished product. Thanks for sharing.


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#6 LilysDad OFFLINE  

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Posted July 21, 2020 - 05:56 PM

Yessss! 

What is the point of the Chev. water pump?


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#7 jdcrawler ONLINE  

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Posted July 21, 2020 - 07:03 PM

Yessss! 

What is the point of the Chev. water pump?

Good original water pumps for these old Hemi engines are almost impossible to find and there aren't any rebuild kits made for them.


Edited by jdcrawler, July 21, 2020 - 07:38 PM.

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#8 jdcrawler ONLINE  

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Posted July 22, 2020 - 03:59 PM

This is all the stuff that was stored inside the car while it was in storage.

 

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The silver parts are the special exhaust system that I made up for it.

These parts have a silver coating on them and I was told that the coating would be scratch, heat and rust resistant.

Well .... I hope it is at least heat resistant because it certainly isn't rust resistant.

 

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The exhaust manifolds are built in two pieces for each side so I can get them on and off without having to lift the engine up.

 

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Once they are mounted on the engine, then the lower pipe bolts onto them.

 

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This is how the exhaust pipes fit together.

The four outlet pipes at the back come out from under the running board just in front of the rear fenders and they will have chrome turned down tips on them.

 

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#9 jdcrawler ONLINE  

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Posted July 23, 2020 - 03:44 PM

I copied an idea for the steering that was used on the Ford T-Birds in the early 60's
The upper part of the steering column is mounted with ball bearings to a curved piece of solid square steel.
Behind the dash, there is an electric powered Acme screw rod that is attached to the steering column.

 

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When you flip a switch to the right, the electric motor turns the threaded rod and the steering column slides over toward the center of the car to allow more room for getting in and out.

 

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When you flip the switch to the left, it brings the steering column back to the driving position.

 

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The steering shaft is connected to the steering box with a universal joint so the column can move over no matter where the tires are positioned.

 

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When I was first building this way back in the late 90's, I had wanted power steering, power brakes, power windows, power trunk lid and this steering column that can be slid over by an electric motor.

Now .. 23 years later as I look at this, the first thing I imagine is being at a car show 50 miles from home and I flip the switch to move the steering column back into the driving position and nothing happens ....

 

I have decided to forget about all the power stuff ( except for the power steering and brakes ) and make the movable steering column, the windows and the trunk lid all manual.

 

Here is the electric motor for the steering column.

 

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And the electric fuses, relays and limit switches that were used to operate it.

 

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That drops my electrical system back to the basic fuse box with horn relay and flashers for the turn signals and 4-ways.

 

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Here is the carriage that holds the steering column to the square guide rod.

There are two bearings mounted on the top and the front with a single bearing mounted on the bottom and the back.

The single bearings on the bottom and the back are spring loaded so there isn't any slop between the carriage and the square rod it rides on.

 

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I have this latch assembly from a car door that I'm going to use to hold the steering column in the driving position.

This will be operated manually and the steering column can be move sideways by hand.

 

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#10 jdcrawler ONLINE  

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Posted July 23, 2020 - 09:00 PM

Playing around on the computer and I ran across a boost pressure chart from BDS.

It shows that running a 471 at a 1/1 drive ratio would give a maxim of 6 pounds boost at 6,000 RPM.

 

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I also found a conversion chart where you can put in the information of your engine and the HP you want to achieve and it will give you the amount of boost needed.

 

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This information is interesting but I already know that the volume of air flow on the old Ford carburetor setup on this engine  will not allow the blower to build up to that horsepower.

However, it will still produce a lot more then the stock engine and it will be more then enough for driving on the street.

 

 


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#11 jdcrawler ONLINE  

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Posted July 25, 2020 - 01:11 PM

This is the door latch mechanism and the latch pin that I'm going to use to hold the steering column in place.

 

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This has a rotating latch with two lock positions.

This is a safety feature on car door latches so they won't accidentally fly open.

 

Here the latch pin is pushed into the first lock position.

 

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And finely pushed into the second lock position.

 

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The latch is operated by a brass rod that pushes the lock pin up to release the lock mechanism.

 

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The latch bolts onto the crossbar behind the dash with the brass operating rod sticking down below it.

 

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There is an adjustable rubber stop on the side for the carriage to come up against when the steering column is locked into the driving position.

 

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The steering column is in the driving position with the latch pin locked into the latch mechanism.

 

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When the brass rod is pushed up, the latch pin is released.

 

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And the steering column can be moved over to the center.

 

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Edited by jdcrawler, July 25, 2020 - 01:13 PM.

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#12 jdcrawler ONLINE  

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Posted July 26, 2020 - 07:49 AM

The radiator for this car is a 3-core radiator from an early 50's Ford truck with the flathead V-8.

I took the top tank off and made up a transmission cooler to fit inside it with the fittings sticking out thru the holes where the upper hose fittings were mounted.

Then I put a hose fitting in the hole where the fill neck use to be.

The truck radiator is then mounted up side down with the top tank now on the bottom.

I removed what was the bottom radiator tank and soldered a top tank off a model-T radiator to it.

 

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I got the bright idea of going ahead and using the original neck to fill the radiator.

Thinking about that now, I realized that wasn't a good idea because the radiator would not be pressurized and I really need to have a pressurized system to keep this engine cool.

 

So I un-soldered the original ' T ' fill neck. 

 

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Then I soldered a patch over that hole in the top of the tank and mounted a regular radiator fill neck to the back of the tank.

 

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And I re-soldered the original ' T ' fill neck back onto the top of the tank.

 

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This way I still have the model-T fill neck sticking up thru the radiator shell and the system is now pressurized.

 

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Edited by jdcrawler, July 26, 2020 - 07:52 AM.

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#13 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted July 26, 2020 - 08:00 AM

Now that's good thinking!


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#14 jdcrawler ONLINE  

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Posted July 27, 2020 - 02:26 PM

A lot of work went into mounting this 471 blower to this 354 Hemi engine.

After I had gotten the blower, I found these old drive and idler pulleys at a swap meet. 

Both pulleys had their shafts still attached but there wasn't any bearings or any housings.

 

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I found an aluminum rear axle housing off a garden tractor to use for the main part of the snout that is bolted to the original blower front cover.

Then I turned down a piece of aluminum to fit bearings into an pressed it into the end of the axle housing snout.

There is an aluminum ring fastened to the back side of the drive pulley and it is holding a grease seal in place.

 

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This bearing tube is welded on the inside to the axle housing snout.

 

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A piece of 2-1/4 OD x 1/4 inch thick wall aluminum tube was machined to accept the bearings for the idler pulley.

There is a piece of that thick wall tube sitting on the bench beside the pulley to show how stout it is.

 

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The arm was made up of machined pieces of aluminum welded together.

 

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I had to machine a big chunk of aluminum to form the pulley that fits on the crankshaft.

It is the same diameter as the drive pulley on the blower for a 1/1 drive ratio.

 

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Back in the late 90's, several companies made a manifold to mount a 671 blower on a 354 Hemi but no one made a manifold for a 471 blower.

So ... using that same 1/4 inch thick wall aluminum tube, I fabricated the intake manifold to fit  this blower to the motor.

I also machined out the rear cover plate for the blower and the valley cover plate on the engine underneath the manifold.

 

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The front and rear bearings on the blower are set up to be lubricated with 80/90 gear lube.There is a small piece of pipe with a slot in the end showing on the lower left corner.

The slot is only there so the pipe could be threaded into the blower housing.

There is a copper tube running from this piece of pipe to the rear bearing plate so the gear lube can flow back to it from the front.

 

There is a copper tube showing on the right side of the blower bearing plate.

That is a vent and it is connected to a matching vent in the rear bearing plate.

 

The gear lube is put into the front bearing plate thru a hole that has a brass plug in it ( right above the copper tube ).

 

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Using the rotary table on my mill, I machined a half round slot into a triangular piece of aluminum that bolts onto the front cover.

This a has a piece of glass mounted in it for checking the level of the gear lube.

There is a small brass plug with a square head threaded into the bottom of this cover for draining the gear lube out if the cover needs to be taken off.

 

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The front and rear bearing plates are vented out thru this small blue tube coming out of the bottom of the blower housing.

 

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#15 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted July 27, 2020 - 03:50 PM

Wow! Such intricate work!


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