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Stihl 031 AV


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#1 secondtry OFFLINE  

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Posted July 03, 2020 - 12:06 PM

  I got out my old Stihl yesterday and fired it up. Like normal it took considerable effort to get it started the first time in a couple of months. Once started and warmed it ran like a real saw so I went to cut some wood. Got on site and it started on the second pull. Cut some wood and ran out of gas. Refilled and no start. pulled the plug and it was dry. Primed it replaced the plug, Nothing no pop no fart nothing. pulled the plug again and checked spark. looks great. plug is damp. Put the plug back in and try again, nothing. In the thirty years I have owned this saw if I had spark and primed it I would at least get a pop when I pulled. I am getting old and my pulling arm doesn't stand up like it used to. So the only thing I can think of is the flywheel key sheared. Getting it torn down to the point of checking that is major so I decided to come here for suggestions and ideas before proceeding.

Thanks   Don   


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#2 EricFromPa ONLINE  

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Posted July 03, 2020 - 03:09 PM

Does it have points under the flywheel? Some 031 AVs had points. Condenser could be on it's way out. They won't start unless you have a good crisp Bright blue spark at the plug. Yellow spark is BAD even if it is somewhat bright. Once you put the plug back in the plug may not be firing if the condenser is bad or going bad. The plug will fire when dry but it will short out when wet because the amperage is really low without the condenser. A condenser is the same thing as a Capacitor.

 

Sthil used to sell a kit to convert them. Not sure if they still do or not but I found 1 on Ebay if your intersted. https://www.ebay.com...ass!15554!US!-1

 

Could be crank seals. I just put a set in a MS290 that was hard starting.This saw probibly only had 15 tanks of fuel ran through it but it was used pretty hard.  I put new fuel line and a new rubber intake on it while I had it apart.  Now it fires up within 2-3 pulls. It's a pretty big job to change crank seals on a newer Stihl. The entire saw has to come apart. Not sure how bad the seals in the older Stihl saws are to change. 


Edited by EricFromPa, July 03, 2020 - 03:10 PM.

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#3 secondtry OFFLINE  

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Posted July 03, 2020 - 05:19 PM

   Full electronic ignition. This saw has been used for bucking fire wood. run hard and steady in 90 degree heat. I bought it at a garage sale in 94 for  $25. It don't owe me nothing but it is sad to see an old friend die. I haven't seen a saw built after 2000 that will begin to keep up with it. It was originally the early edition of Stihls electronic ignition which was failure prone. and very expensive. That was replaced with the upgrade in about 03.

Don


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#4 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted July 03, 2020 - 06:30 PM

I have one my FIL bought in the mid 70's. That thing would work you!


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#5 chieffan OFFLINE  

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Posted July 03, 2020 - 07:00 PM

Try a new spark plug, preferable NGK and not Champion.  Lot of no start issues are caused by the plug not firing good under pressure.


Edited by chieffan, July 03, 2020 - 07:59 PM.

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#6 EricFromPa ONLINE  

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Posted July 05, 2020 - 12:31 PM

Couple things to check. Make sure that the Spark Arrestor screen isn't plugged up with soot. That will make it hard to start and flood out really easy.  

 

How is your compression? Did you take the muffler off and verify that the piston and cylinder look ok? Probably the 1st thing I would look at since it's an older saw with unknown hours on it.

 

If your cylinder looks good I would throw some parts at it. Carb kit,spark plug,fuel line,impulse line and Intake boot. You can probably get the whole lot for around $50. Does your saw have the Tillotson HU or Walbro WA carb on it? You can get new Walbro carbs for like $15

 

Your Stihl has a rubber intake Boot and a molded rubber impulse line and molded fuel line. I would check to see if they are torn. Often you can't tell if the intake boot is torn without partly dissembling the saw.

 

My old McCulloch is having a very hard time starting without prime and floods easily. I just pulled it apart last evening and found the bottom most intake gasket had blown between the pulse hole and intake. Strange thing is if you can get it started it will run and idle all day long until you shut it off and let it cool back down. Makes no sense, maybe the gasket was swelling up when hot? I really like this old Mac because it will usually run and idle all day long but it's a heavy saw. I bought a clean but used 455 husky for $150 and it's a good running and cutting saw. They are the similar cc but the old Mac has ALOT more torque, but then again it weighs over twice as much as the Husky.

 

Husky can take a 16" to 20" bar and my old Mac can run a 28" bar. There is a fella on youtube that runs a 32" bar on his old Pro Mac 10-10s and it has no problem pulling through big hardwood. 

 

The old saws were just better period.       


Edited by EricFromPa, July 05, 2020 - 01:15 PM.

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#7 secondtry OFFLINE  

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Posted July 09, 2020 - 06:58 PM

 Pulled the saw all apart today. Found more broken and defective parts than it is worth replacing. Ill be looking for another old Stihl saw maybe  I can build one out of two. Have to go to my old Homelite and Craftsman for now.

Don 


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#8 coxhaus OFFLINE  

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Posted July 11, 2020 - 06:32 PM

I have an old Stihl 036 I bought new.  It still starts and runs good even after sitting over a year.  I have not used it much in the last 5 years.  I start it up maybe once a year.  I just pour out the sour gas and fill it up and it starts and runs on the 3rd or 4th pull.  I use Stihl oil and ethanol free gas which is fresh as I have a Stihl gas weed eater I use all the time.

 

I had a big oak limb that blew down a week ago.  The limb was 12 inches across and about 15 feet long in the air.  It had fallen to where is was sticking in the ground on a tripod so to speak.  I used a Dewalt 20v battery to trim all the leave branches off.  I strategically trimmed the big branches off using the Stihl 036 while using a chain hooked to my Power King tractor to tension it from falling on me as I trimmed it.  Then I pulled the main limb down with the Power King tractor so I could cut the big stuff without it falling on me.

 

PS

I ended up with some nice BBQ wood.


Edited by coxhaus, July 11, 2020 - 10:35 PM.

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#9 EricFromPa ONLINE  

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Posted July 11, 2020 - 07:35 PM

Seems that they sell for a good bit even in non running condition. There are a couple of running saws listed for parts on Ebay but there not cheap. 

 

This is the lowest hour "parts saw" that I could find. You can usually tell if it's a lower hour saw by the paint on the bottom of a metal saw. Should make a good saw once it's gone through.

https://www.ebay.com...ioAAOSwrVRbUQ30

 

I've bought a few "parts saws" off of ebay in similar condition. I paid $80 + shipping for my 60cc 3.7ci timberbear. After putting a carb kit and fuel line and oil line in it, it's been a very good saw up until recently. I need to put intake gaskets in it. The bottom gasket blew between the pulse hole and the intake. Still has a hair over 165psi of compression which is rite where it was when I got it 5 years ago. I love the big gnarly buckin spikes on the older saws. The factory bucking spikes on the newer saws are pathetically small and almost useless. My neighbor bought a Husky 576xp (auto tune) with a 32" bar about a month ago and the spikes on my old Mac are literally 3 times larger and twice as thick.  


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