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wisconsin breaker points

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#1 flyboy OFFLINE  

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Posted May 31, 2020 - 10:54 AM

I am so close to finishing my Winter project of restoring a Bolens 1050 with a Wisconsin TR-10D engine and I've hit a brick wall!   One of the last things I needed to do was replace the breaker points in the TR-10D, but I lost the set screw that mounts the points assembly. No problem right? Well - like almost everything else in this restoration project I can't find a screw that fits.  Grrrrr!  The Wisconsin parts list says that a #8/32 x 5/16" screw is needed, but a #8 screw slides in and out and doesn't grab the threads in the hole. I can see the threads in the shallow hole, so they are not stripped. A #10 screw does the same thing and a #12 screw won't go in the hole. (I drove 18 miles to buy that one #12 screw that didn't work).  Besides a #12 screw won't fit through the mounting hole in the base of the breaker points. I have crawled around on the garage floor looking for the original screw, I have searched through many cans and jars of old rusty screws and CANNOT find anything that fits.

 

Any insight to this problem would be greatly appreciated!!!!    Paul

 

Screen Shot 2020-05-31 at 9.30.54 AM.png

Screen Shot 2020-05-31 at 9.29.43 AM.png

 


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#2 chieffan OFFLINE  

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Posted May 31, 2020 - 11:53 AM

That screw may not have been original and changed to metric after someone stripped the threads out.  Try the other screw (condenser mounting) and see if it fits.  That will tell you where your at for size.


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#3 firedudetl1 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 31, 2020 - 11:54 AM

knowing nothing about this particular set-up,

 

I'd put some soft set loc-tite /permatex on a screw that's tight in the hole but won't "catch" 

 

or

 

I'd tap/chase the existing hole so  "something" catches and drill out the base of the points to have that fastener fits

 

would probably take a tap to the threads first - sometimes seeing the threads in the hole doesn't always mean there's enough thread depth/height to catch the screw

good luck



#4 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted May 31, 2020 - 12:34 PM

I am so close to finishing my Winter project of restoring a Bolens 1050 with a Wisconsin TR-10D engine and I've hit a brick wall!   One of the last things I needed to do was replace the breaker points in the TR-10D, but I lost the set screw that mounts the points assembly. No problem right? Well - like almost everything else in this restoration project I can't find a screw that fits.  Grrrrr!  The Wisconsin parts list says that a #8/32 x 5/16" screw is needed, but a #8 screw slides in and out and doesn't grab the threads in the hole. I can see the threads in the shallow hole, so they are not stripped. A #10 screw does the same thing and a #12 screw won't go in the hole. (I drove 18 miles to buy that one #12 screw that didn't work).  Besides a #12 screw won't fit through the mounting hole in the base of the breaker points. I have crawled around on the garage floor looking for the original screw, I have searched through many cans and jars of old rusty screws and CANNOT find anything that fits.

 

Any insight to this problem would be greatly appreciated!!!!    Paul

 

attachicon.gifScreen Shot 2020-05-31 at 9.30.54 AM.png

attachicon.gifScreen Shot 2020-05-31 at 9.29.43 AM.png

According to the newest parts list the 5/16" long screw version was replaced with an 8-32 x 1/2" version - part number XA-126.  You could try a longer screw to see if the threads hold better in the deeper part of the hole.  As stated, someone may have damaged the threads (or lost the original screw) and grabbed whatever they had on hand and forced it into the hole damaging the original threads in the process - just a thought.  If you have an 8-32 tap you could try it gently into the hole and see if it threads into the hole ok and perhaps run the threads a little deeper - not sure if the hole is blind or goes into the crankcase so be careful you don't bottom out the tap and break it off.  Could use a piece of wire to see how deep the hole goes first.

 

Just some suggestions - hope they help. 

Attached Thumbnails

  • XA118 replaced by XA126.jpg

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#5 WNYTractorTinkerer OFFLINE  

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Posted May 31, 2020 - 12:41 PM

Break out the screw gauge and start trying screws to find the size that fits then get or fabricate one of the right length..  It sounds like a prior owner tried one that was too long and stripped the original threads out..  Then they drilled it out and re tapped the hole thus your conundrum..  Patience and determination will prevail here..  May the force be with you.. 


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#6 LilysDad OFFLINE  

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Posted May 31, 2020 - 02:43 PM

While your at it replace the round head screw with an Allen head. Much more convenient to adjust.



#7 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 31, 2020 - 05:10 PM

I would use the XA-126 part number , Wisconsin currently lists it as a "Pan head " Self tapping screw for $5.21

Someone may have a used one for you?  If not I can get you an OEM one



#8 101 senior OFFLINE  

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Posted June 01, 2020 - 05:18 AM

sounds like this screw is going to cost you a lot of pennies before you find one. good luck.


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#9 flyboy OFFLINE  

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Posted June 01, 2020 - 08:03 AM

Thank you all for the replies!  Chieffan suggested that the hole may have been re-tapped to metric. This makes sense because I know that NO SAE screw works so I will start looking at metric screws. (Another 18 mile trip to the hardware store).  If no luck there then WNYTractorTinker suggested fabricating a new screw or threaded rod to fit the 3/8" hole that bottoms out at 3/8" and cannot be re-tapped unless the motor is disassembled. YUCK! 

 

Like I said - this was the last thing that needed to be done in order to finish the restoration. Do any of you ever feel like the restoration is something that shouldn't be done and the the tractor just wants to remain RIP? 

 

One thing I didn't mention is the reason I had to replace the points.  The engine hadn't been run in several years and on first start-up it ran fine until the coil started smoking and was very hot. It was then that I found a small hole in the coil case with oil leaking out of it. I assumed that the oil was a coolant, so I ordered a new coil. Prior to the coil arriving I inspected the points and found melted plastic and burnt points. I wondered what could happen next - then I lost the screw!  I don't get too upset about all this stuff because I took on this project as a challenge and it HAS BEEN just that!!!

 

Thanks ALL!! 


Edited by flyboy, June 01, 2020 - 08:30 AM.

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#10 Bruce Dorsi OFFLINE  

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Posted June 02, 2020 - 08:51 AM

I do not have an engine in front of me to look at, so I'm testing my memory

 

Doesn't the screw for the points on a Wisconsin TR  screw into the left wall of the breaker box, not the rear wall (crankcase) ??   ....If so, can the screw hole  be drilled & tapped without penetrating into the crankcase?


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#11 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted June 02, 2020 - 09:49 AM

Thank you all for the replies!  Chieffan suggested that the hole may have been re-tapped to metric. This makes sense because I know that NO SAE screw works so I will start looking at metric screws. (Another 18 mile trip to the hardware store).  If no luck there then WNYTractorTinker suggested fabricating a new screw or threaded rod to fit the 3/8" hole that bottoms out at 3/8" and cannot be re-tapped unless the motor is disassembled. YUCK! 

 

Like I said - this was the last thing that needed to be done in order to finish the restoration. Do any of you ever feel like the restoration is something that shouldn't be done and the the tractor just wants to remain RIP? 

 

One thing I didn't mention is the reason I had to replace the points.  The engine hadn't been run in several years and on first start-up it ran fine until the coil started smoking and was very hot. It was then that I found a small hole in the coil case with oil leaking out of it. I assumed that the oil was a coolant, so I ordered a new coil. Prior to the coil arriving I inspected the points and found melted plastic and burnt points. I wondered what could happen next - then I lost the screw!  I don't get too upset about all this stuff because I took on this project as a challenge and it HAS BEEN just that!!!

 

Thanks ALL!! 

 

 

I do not have an engine in front of me to look at, so I'm testing my memory

 

Doesn't the screw for the points on a Wisconsin TR  screw into the left wall of the breaker box, not the rear wall (crankcase) ??   ....If so, can the screw hole  be drilled & tapped without penetrating into the crankcase?

I believe Bruce is correct if the TR-10D and TRA-10D have the same points box which I beleive they do.  Went back through the pictures I took while I was working on my TRA-10D and the hole for the screw that holds the points exists the rear side of the points box.  The screw that mounts the condenser appears to go into the crankcase as well as the threaded hole for the stud that holds the points cover on.  If the threads for the points screw are damaged you should be able to retap the hole to a slightly larger size or use a helical kit or similar insert to repair them back to the correct size.  You could even use a longer screw and put a nut on the outside of the points box to hold the screw - might be a bit of a pain to tighten the screw and hold the nut at the same time.  The hole for the condenser screw does appear to go into the crankcase so if that screw was missing the hole would need to be plugged somehow to keep oil from splashing out it - a little bit of RTV would probably work or that.  The condenser could be relocated to the outside of the points box and the wire from it connected electrically to the stud at the bottom of the points box that runs to the coil and the body of the condenser connected to a good clean ground for it to function properly.  Attached are the pictures of my TRA-10D points box area - hope this helps and my thanks to Bruce for pointing this out.     

 

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Points Box Area TRA-10D.jpg
  • 2 Points Box Rear.jpg
  • 3 Points Push Rod.jpg
  • 4 Points Screw Sticks Out Rear Of Points Box.jpg
  • 5 Inside Crankcase.jpg
  • 6 Inside The Crankcase.jpg

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