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Overheated car engine help.


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#1 CraftsmanGT OFFLINE  

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Posted February 17, 2020 - 03:13 PM

The other night I blew the radiator in my 1966 Dodge Polara 383. I limped it a mile to the closest gas station to check things out. When I pulled in it started ticking. My temp gauge doesn't work right now so I checked it with my temp gun. The hottest it showed was 220 at the thermostat housing and 200-205 at other spots in the block, valve covers, and radiator. When I turned the key to shut it off it dieseled for a few seconds. I got a tow home and yesterday went to see if all was ok. Oil is still full, no coolant in it. It started right up and runs fine, other than this tick/tapping sound. I pulled the valve cover on the driver side and every thing seems ok. I haven't checked the pass side yet. I hope I didn't fry it. Here's a video of the noise.

Edited by CraftsmanGT, February 17, 2020 - 04:41 PM.

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#2 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted February 17, 2020 - 05:01 PM

If the radiator blew then coolant probably shot all over everything around the front of the engine including the belts, alternator and fuel pump - if memory serves me correctly the fuel pump is located at the right lower front of the engine.  I would suggest removing the belts and then turn the water pump and other belt driven components by hand to see if they appear to make any noise.  Could also start the engine with the belts off and see if the noise is still there.  It almost sounds mechanical / metallic which could be the fuel pump or perhaps a lifter making a noise - could even be a cracked exhaust manifold - hard to tell.  I have seen antifreeze coated belts make strange noises but I doubt if it is them that is creating the noise.  If this doesn't help at locating the cause of the noise and you have access to an automotive style stethescope it may help you isolate where the noise is coming from.  If not a piece of rubber fuel line or heater hose about 4 - 5 feet long and a short piece of steel tubing or pipe pushed into one end and the other end held to the ear can sometimes pinpoint the noise area.  Hold the tubing or pipe end against the fuel pump, exhaust manifold, etc. and see where the noise is loudest - just be careful you don't get your hand caught or burnt while holding the hose / pipe / tubing end. Also check the pulleys (including the crank pulley) to make sure they are tight and don't have any nicks or missing pieces / bolts.  Odds are if the engine wasn't running hot when the rad blew then you probably didn't overheat it if you only drove it for a mile but if it was running hot before the rad blew then you could have done some internal damage.  Did you take the temperature readings as soon as you pulled into the gas station?  The colour of the left manifold could indicate that it was running hot before the rad blew as it looks a little whitish but hard to tell. 

 

Would strongly recommend that you get the temperature gauge working before you drive it much.  Owned a 67 and 69 Dodge but just 6 cyl in the 67 and 318 in the 69 so no powerhouse compared with the 383.  One thing those years of cars were noted for was the temperature gauge suddenly going up for a few seconds while driving down the road before the reading on the gauge would return to normal.  The mechanical voltage regulator that was used on them for the dash gauges (not the regular voltage regulator under the hood) was prone to being poor at providing a constant voltage to the dash instruments - not sure if 66 had the same problem or not. 

 

Hope this helps.


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#3 MiCarl ONLINE  

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Posted February 17, 2020 - 05:08 PM

When I was in college I had a friend with a '64 Mustang with a tick that that we had trouble diagnosing.  As I recall it wasn't as pronounced as that, but this was about 40 years ago.  We chased valve train noise until it finally threw a rod.

 

I'd pop the rocker covers and check for excessive play first, that's noisy enough if it's valve lash the rocker should be noticeably loose (remember, you have to turn the engine so the valve is closed for the rocker you're checking).  If I didn't find anything there I'd be pulling the pan and having a look at the bottom end.

 

That Mustang had a bolt in cross member so getting the pan off with the engine in frame was trivial.  I hope your Doge is as easy.


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#4 James Bosma ONLINE  

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Posted February 17, 2020 - 11:03 PM

If you raise the rpm slightly does the knock stay the same or increase 

Change the oil too, its toast now since it overheated

could be a lifter or the r word


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#5 Dee OFFLINE  

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Posted February 18, 2020 - 01:38 AM

Definitely a mechanical noise.  I don't think the engine is "toast".

 

Sounds like a stuck lifter.  Use a stethoscope or equivalent  to isolate the location of the noise.  Then dig in to see if you can visually find the problem..

 

If you wanted to you, could drain some oil and replace with some ATF or some other additive to see if it will free up the stuck component..


Edited by Dee, February 18, 2020 - 01:40 AM.

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#6 Bud W ONLINE  

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Posted February 18, 2020 - 12:21 PM

Years ago, I fixed my friends Dodge Challenger that had a noise like that. He was raising hell with it and missed a shift at 6,000 rpm. It turned out that one of the valves started to pull through the spring retainer (the tapered hole cracked) and the rocker was tapping on it because of the excess clearance. 


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#7 hamman OFFLINE  

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Posted February 18, 2020 - 12:45 PM

Sounds like a stuck lifter. If it overheated you need to change the oil and filter. The lifter could of overheated and collapsed. Just a guess. Good luck. Let us know what it turns out to be,                                                                                                            Roger


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#8 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted February 19, 2020 - 10:20 AM

The cause of the overheating needs to be fixed. Over the past 20 years I've experienced many more thermostat failures than the previous 33 years. The new thermostats don't have the bleeder hole like the old ones. I learned to drill a 1/8" hole near the top in my new ones. It helped. Good Luck, Rick


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#9 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted February 19, 2020 - 10:42 AM

Sounds like a lifter to me as well.  Back when I owned an 80 full size Chevy Blazer with 350, it had a lifter that started ticking.  A bottle of STP oil treatment added, and in 5 minutes the tick went away.  If I didn't add the STP at every oil change, the tick would return.


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#10 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted February 19, 2020 - 11:57 AM

STP = Stops The Problem.  :D


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#11 Mark 149 J. ONLINE  

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Posted February 19, 2020 - 06:04 PM

Lots of good advice so far.  

It does sound like a lifter or valve train noise.  Change the oil and filter and add ZMax to the oil.  I bought it at Walmart.  It it very good at removing oil varnish and lubricating any sticking components.  

I would also look at replacing the thermostat.  I don't think the engine is toast.  Those big blocks can take a lot of abuse.  

Let us know what you find out.  


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#12 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted February 19, 2020 - 06:59 PM

STP = Stops The Problem.  :D

I once read that STP stood for "Scientifically Tested Product" in an old car magazine - according to Wikipedia it stands for "Scientifically Treated Petroleum" - I like your definition.


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#13 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted February 19, 2020 - 10:10 PM

Wikipedia it stands for "Scientifically Treated Petroleum" - I like your definition.

 

 

Was just something off the cuff. I can't blame anyone else. 

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#14 Mark 149 J. ONLINE  

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Posted February 19, 2020 - 11:58 PM

Lots of good advice so far.  

It does sound like a lifter or valve train noise.  Change the oil and filter and add ZMax to the oil.  I bought it at Walmart.  It it very good at removing oil varnish and lubricating any sticking components.  

I would also look at replacing the thermostat.  I don't think the engine is toast.  Those big blocks can take a lot of abuse.  

Let us know what you find out.  

I've also used ZMax ATF treatment on a Camry transmission.  A valve in the valve body would stick keeping it from shifting from 2nd to 3rd.  I tried SeaFoam with no luck.  I put the ZMax in and within a day it shifted great.

 

Remove all of the belts (like someone else mentioned) and check to see if each of driven components turn freely without making any sound.  I once had a water pump where the impeller fell off the shaft and it made a weird sound.  The customer kept complaining that their car would overheat.   No one could figure out the problem until I removed the water pump (Due to the weird sound) and found the problem.  

 

By the way the rules say that if you show us the motor of your car you must include pictures of the car.   :D


Edited by Mark 149 J., February 20, 2020 - 10:20 AM.

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#15 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted February 20, 2020 - 09:39 AM

By the way the rules say that if you show us the motor of your car you must include pictures of the car.  

 

:yeah_that:


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