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Rebuilding peerless 4 speed


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#1 Banjopicker10 ONLINE  

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Posted February 14, 2020 - 09:26 AM

IMG_20200213_155317.jpg IMG_20200213_155314.jpg IMG_20200214_072645.jpg IMG_20200214_072611.jpg IMG_20200214_072604.jpg

 

 

 

I'm rebuilding a peerless 2300 for speed manual transaxle here are some pics of the proses if anyone has some suggestions of how to do it better let me know


Edited by KennyP, February 14, 2020 - 09:39 AM.

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#2 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted February 14, 2020 - 09:40 AM

I have one I will have to get into soon! I'm lucking!


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#3 Banjopicker10 ONLINE  

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Posted February 14, 2020 - 09:53 AM

The worst part is when the needle bearings fall out other than that it is pretty simple and easy this is my first one

The reason I'm trying this one down is because the input shaft bearing is junk and it literally had mud in it it took me three days to cleen half the case.


Edited by Banjopicker10, February 14, 2020 - 09:55 AM.

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#4 EricFromPa OFFLINE  

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Posted February 14, 2020 - 01:10 PM

Yep looks like your typical GT transaxle that's sat outside for years and had water sitting in it. Water will run rite down the shifter and fill up the transaxle. That's why you'll see a rubber boot on farm tractor shifters.

 

I suspect the 1200 series Peerless 3 speed in my Wagner Little giant is gona be a heck of a mess when I tear into it this spring. This tractor was in a flood and it was under fast running river water for a week. Then it sat for 2 years with water and muck in everything. I got the engine cleaned up and running but the gas tank even though it still had the cap on it was even full of silt and water. The water in the transaxle froze and it pushed all of the seals and 2 of the needle bearings out. I flushed it a couple of times with kerosene before I put it up. I was to busy last fall to pull it apart. I'll get to it this spring though.         


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#5 Banjopicker10 ONLINE  

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Posted February 14, 2020 - 01:17 PM

Yep looks like your typical GT transaxle that's sat outside for years and had water sitting in it. Water will run rite down the shifter and fill up the transaxle. That's why you'll see a rubber boot on farm tractor shifters.

 

I suspect the 1200 series Peerless 3 speed in my Wagner Little giant is gona be a heck of a mess when I tear into it this spring. This tractor was in a flood and it was under fast running river water for a week. Then it sat for 2 years with water and muck in everything. I got the engine cleaned up and running but the gas tank even though it still had the cap on it was even full of silt and water. The water in the transaxle froze and it pushed all of the seals and 2 of the needle bearings out. I flushed it a couple of times with kerosene before I put it up. I was to busy last fall to pull it apart. I'll get to it this spring though.         

Good luck


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#6 Mudrig150 ONLINE  

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Posted February 14, 2020 - 01:50 PM

Since we're sharing horror stories...

I gotta tear down my Peerless 1200, which is being replaced by a 2300. The tractor sat under a crumbling shed since 2004, and I rescued it in late 2018. There were 3 gallons of water in the transmission when I first flushed it, and no oil at all. I added new gear oil, then my brother forced it outside, and after I tipped it up on a 45 degree angle to pull the jackshaft out, I left it all winter. Now that my genius brain had tipped the tractor up, the rain water from that particularly rainy winter ran right down the top of the frame and into the transmission. It ended up freezing, and it broke one of the axle tube bolts off, which allowed the water to run down and drain out the new hole, so it only froze the diff.

The gears have rust on them now, and they have an audible clunk when rocking the input shaft, and the shifter detents for 1st and reverse are gone from my our neighbour only mowing in 1st and reverse. The exploded apart when I tried pulling it apart, so it's going to need the axles cut off.

Luckily the dude who owned the 210 which the 4 speed came out of literally only mowed in 3rd gear, and used the clutch and variator, it's a bit wore but the detents are strong enough to not let the shift flop around in 1st and reverse.

It's a shame, swapping out the perfectly bad original trans, but I want actually working drum brakes, stronger gears, the 3/4" input shaft, and no grinding from the gears when I let out the clutch.


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#7 Charlottedarter ONLINE  

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Posted February 14, 2020 - 02:49 PM

Keep posting photos on the rebuild...I have a 2300 with a broken axle that will get re-built eventually...if I ever get the axle housing free from the axle, and get the broken axle replaced or repaired.  Note if you run into any difficulty or pitfalls...maybe save us some time and cuss words when we do ours.  Thanks...good luck on the rebuild.


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#8 Charlottedarter ONLINE  

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Posted February 15, 2020 - 03:03 PM

On a side note, and related...In order to get my differential out, I need to remove one hub, that appears to be bound to the axle.  I suspect when the axle broke, I probably partially twisted the key at the hub and its preventing me from removing the hub.  Anyone ever encounter this, and how do you get the hub off?  I don't have a big press, and I think that may be the only option.  Thoughts?


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#9 secondtry OFFLINE  

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Posted February 15, 2020 - 04:13 PM

 Pullers and single use pullers  or  "presses" can be fabricated using random pieces of pipe, all-thread, and other scrap. A picture or two of exactly what you are dealing with could get a better response. Do you have welding capability.   Don


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#10 Charlottedarter ONLINE  

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Posted February 16, 2020 - 07:38 PM

First image is of the hub that won't come off...second is the other axle end with hub removed.  I suspect the key in the stuck hub is partially sheared and binding the hub onto the axle.

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  • 20200215_132339.jpg
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#11 secondtry OFFLINE  

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Posted February 17, 2020 - 12:41 AM

Ok  Get 3 pieces of all-thread and the hub you have removed from the other axle. The biggest all thread that will through the lug holes in the hubs and long enough to go through both hubs and have enough space between them to put a hydraulic jack between, and nuts and washers outside the hubs. The all-thread to hold the hubs the jack to push on the axle. you can apply a lot of pressure that way. You have to use your own judgment to keep from breaking the hubs with to much force. If you get it really tight and it hasn't moved you can try all the standards heat, penetrating oil, vibration, Time, Space the all-thread as evenly as possible around the hubs.   Don 


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#12 Charlottedarter ONLINE  

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Posted February 17, 2020 - 06:39 PM

Thanks Don, I'll give it a shot


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