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Oil leak?


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#1 bjt0055 ONLINE  

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Posted February 08, 2020 - 08:18 PM

So I got a basket case of a 1054. Literally in pieces when I got it. I got much reassembled, rebuilt the carb, rewired everything and finally got it running. I have no idea on any of the history of this thing.

I still think I have some adjustments to do for the governor as it revs very high at full throttle. But that's another issue.

There was quite a bit of oil leaking in the back, by the pulleys. It's the original Wisconsin engine. I believe it is the shaft seal.

I plan on pulling the engine tomorrow to get a better look. Before I do this is there anything else it could be? I would like to not do a full rebuild, just replace the oil seal and gasket...is that an unreasonable idea?

Thanks for any ideas...

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#2 Dave in NY ONLINE  

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Posted February 08, 2020 - 10:07 PM

The Wisconsins have a threaded hole back near the pulley above the crankshaft that is open to the inside of the motor. Unless there is a bolt snugly threaded into it oil will blow out when the motor is running. I think it's one of the ones where the belt guide bolts on. If you have the belt guide in place and bolted down snug then it could be a bad crank seal. Found out about the hole through to the crankcase test running a TRA-10D once that wasn't on a tractor. No belt guide in place, no bolts, had quite a bit of oil blowing out.
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#3 bjt0055 ONLINE  

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Posted February 09, 2020 - 07:25 AM

Thanks Dave!  I will look into that.  I was unaware of the hole.


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#4 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted February 09, 2020 - 08:40 AM

Be careful if you have to remove the multi-groove pulley from the engine shaft as they can sometimes be stuck in place and there are two set screws that will need to be loosened.  If someone has removed the pulley before they may even have used a set screw on top of a set screw so you may want to remove them completely and verify that there is not a second one underneath the top one - also gives a chance to squirt a little lubricant in the holes so the pulley slides off the crank a little easier.  The jaws on most pullers won't catch on anything but the outer edges of the pulley flanges and since the pulley is cast they are prone to breaking if too much pressure is applied and the pulley is stuck.  If you can work a bearing splitter or a thin flat piece of steel notched out for the crankshaft at the edge of the pulley next to the engine so it is flat against the pulley face and then use two pieces of threaded rod and a harmonic balancer style puller you will have a lot more surface area of the pulley face to pull on which will put less stress on a small area of the cast iron pulley flanges that the jaws may.  Also be advised the pulley is not very thick where the small groove for the optional hydraulic lift pump belt runs and I have seen them break in that area as well if people get rough with the pulley while trying to remove it.  Just some suggestions in case you find out it is the seal - hopefully it is just a bolt hole leaking the oil.  


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#5 bjt0055 ONLINE  

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Posted February 09, 2020 - 08:47 AM

I just got in the garage to take a look. There are the two bolt holes above the pulley that have no bolts in them.

I pulled the 2 bolts off another engine I have and those holes do go through the cover just like you said! I'm guessing that is the issue. I don't usually like to ask questions but that one will save some time and unnecessary work. Thanks!

Next I will figure out the governor...

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#6 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted February 09, 2020 - 09:00 AM

Next I will figure out the governor...

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There is a repair manual in the manuals section that may help you if you don't have a copy.

 

https://gardentracto...ned-up-version/

 

I also created this pdf document that shows pictures and lengths of the springs and other governor information that may be of interest to you as someone may have installed the wrong spring over the years.

 

https://gardentracto...nt-information/
 


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#7 bjt0055 ONLINE  

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Posted February 09, 2020 - 05:46 PM

With all your insight I took care of both problems.  The oil leak was indeed the missing bolts.  Easy enough to fix that!

 

I adjusted the governor and after doing so the engine runs great!  I think it runs better than my other 1050.

 

Just about ready to give it a spin around the driveway and the clutch was stuck, managed to get that freed up.  Was able to back it out of the garage and drove it around a few circles.  It seems the differential is slipping.  I managed to get it back in the garage in low.  Now I got some reading on that.

 

Overall it was a successful day and couldn't have gotten it done so easily without your direction.  Thanks Again!


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#8 Dave in NY ONLINE  

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Posted February 09, 2020 - 07:16 PM

Great! Sometimes it's something simple and easy to fix. Always nice when that happens and doesn't cost you lots of time and money. And good tips about removing the pulley from the motor if you ever need to. I have had to replace the motor pulleys on 3 different tube tractors because of them being broken by someone trying to pry or hammer them off the crankshaft. If the clutch was sticking, possibly it isn't engaging completely. Try dripping a small amount of oil down on the splines of the shaft when the clutch pulley and driven plate are separated. That is while the clutch pedal is depressed. Be careful to not get much oil on the clutch surface. Maybe use some aerosol can lube that has a plastic applicator straw. Tie or wire the clutch pedal down so you can see what you are doing if you don't have a helper. Had to do that a couple of times. Best thing would be to remove the complete clutch and shaft assembly and disassemble it for a good cleaning and lube the splined shaft. Not a terrible job but it will take up an afternoon. Try the oil trick first. Is the belt tensioner pulley doing its job? Are the belts worn or slipping? Check that first. Just some thoughts. 


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#9 bjt0055 ONLINE  

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Posted February 09, 2020 - 07:34 PM

It is hard to tell what was slipping, really felt like it was coming from the rear end. I will look at the other things mentioned. I was thinking it might have something to do with differential end play adjustment that I've read about? Maybe next weekend I will have some time to look into it

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#10 Dukedkt442 ONLINE  

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Posted February 09, 2020 - 07:50 PM

Lucky dog! I’m banging my head against the wall trying to get spark out of my TRA-10D!

Edited by Dukedkt442, February 09, 2020 - 07:50 PM.

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#11 bjt0055 ONLINE  

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Posted February 11, 2020 - 07:50 PM

So I had a little time to look at the slipping gears and focused on the clutch.  It looks like some of the lining is missing on the brake plate but I dont think that would cause it to slip?  

 

 

I also noticed the nut on front of the clutch assy. (the nut on the end of shaft by self aligning bearing) is not very tight.  I can grab the drive shaft by hand and loosen or tighten the nut.  Could that cause slipping?  the plates wouldn't be compressed as much by that spring?  Im assuming that nut should be much tighter?


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#12 Dave in NY ONLINE  

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Posted February 11, 2020 - 08:52 PM

The nut on the very end holds the clutch assembly and shaft in the support bearing. The plate immediately inboard of the bearing is threaded onto the shaft and when tightened properly squeezes the clutch assembly against the spring that in turn provides the pressure to lock up the clutch. There should be friction material on both sides of the double grove pulley. Is any of the material gone? Does the clutch assembly get a gap between the plates and the pulley when the pedal is depressed, and then close up when the pedal is released?
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#13 Dave in NY ONLINE  

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Posted February 11, 2020 - 08:56 PM

Oh, and yes, the nut on the end of the shaft ought to be tight. Doesn't need to be torqued down like a lug nut on a semi truck, but it shouldn't be loose.
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#14 bjt0055 ONLINE  

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Posted February 11, 2020 - 09:18 PM

Yes it has lining on both sides of the pulley. It seem to open and close with the pedal. At one point the hole tractor was dissambled so there is a possibility something isn't right. That front nut is much looser than the other one I have. I will tighten it up and see

When it was slipping it was ok in low gear but I felt what I would describe as a surge and then slow down, like it would engage and wait a moment to engage again. It was much worse in high gear.

Belt tensioner seems ok.

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#15 Dave in NY ONLINE  

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Posted February 12, 2020 - 06:04 AM

Did you have to reassemble the clutch unit and shaft? Or someone prior to you had it apart? Maybe something isn't just quite right in there.
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