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How many shims for a 1050 transmission LH hub?

1050 transmission shims adjustment

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#1 flyboy OFFLINE  

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Posted January 26, 2020 - 06:13 AM

With the help of a good number of members , (Thank You!), I have been able to purchase all needed replacement parts for  the LH hub on my 1050 transmission. Now that I am ready reassemble the transmission I am going by the exploded parts diagram and see that the 2 shims (PN's 1716498 & 1716499) say "as required". What is the measurement that will determine how many shims are needed? When I disassembled the hub there were 4 shims in there, 2 were damaged. Since I am putting in new parts can I assume that all 4 shims are not needed? But again, how do I determine that?  I have a Bolens bulletin, (service bulletin #1-67), that describes how to adjust the "Rear axle end-play",  but it does not address the number of shims needed. Am I overthinking this? Should I just put in the .0125 and .005 shims as shown in the exploded diagram and do the rear end play adjustment and let it go at that? Any info would much appreciated!



#2 Bruce Dorsi OFFLINE  

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Posted January 26, 2020 - 07:10 AM

The shims are there to center the worm wheel under the worm shaft.

 

According to the service manual, there is a .010" tolerance on the amount of shims needed. ....We never had the special Bolens tool for checking/setting which shims are needed.  ....I never encountered damaged shims, so I would just put back what I removed.

 

How badly are the shims damaged, and how thick are they?  ...If they are .005" each and completely unusable, I would leave them out and try adjusting the axle end play.  ...If they are much thicker, I would try to find or make new shims.

 

While we may strive for perfection, I don't think it's needed in this situation.

 

There is a Tube-Frame Service Manual #552875-1 in the Manuals forum.  .....Page 3-16 describes the process of centering the worm wheel.


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#3 flyboy OFFLINE  

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Posted January 29, 2020 - 07:57 AM

Thanks Bruce!   The service manual you steered me to provided a clearer picture of what is needed and showed me that NO SHIMS were needed in the hub area, that the shims were inside the transmission. HOWEVER, when I removed the hub there were 4 shims next to the thrust bearing and that is what had me confused. I don't know why shims were placed there. The repair I was doing (bronze bearing and oil seal) had nothing to do with the parts inside the transmission. It seems that whoever placed those shims there led to the fracturing of the thrust washer which eventually led to the scoring of the bronze bearing and hub surface. Anyway its all back together with the new parts a used hub and NO shims, as it should be.  Moving on - the next part of this restoration is to find out why the clutch is seized.

 

Thanks for your help!


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