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#166 Dave in NY ONLINE  

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Posted September 04, 2020 - 08:00 PM

Got the flywheel off and found a lot of oily crud in there. Going to do a new crank seal. Gave it another dose of Purple Power and a rinse with the power washer. Everything cleaned up pretty good. I then went to work on the motor mounting plate. It is 1/2" x 10" x 10 1/2"  Found that the front mounting feet of the motor were going to be over top of the rear bolts that hold the axle mount. Hadn't planned on that happening! Sort of same situation as the cast iron Kohler that had been installed when I got the tractor. Decided to stay with plan A and use the plate with spacers to let the motor sit over top of the axle mount bolt heads. The motor sat on spacers when it was in the Cub and the motors mount in these tube frame tractors on spacers so I see no big deal with this. I suppose I could have made a mount with bar stock or angle iron that took the place of the 1/2" plate. I kind of like the solid plate sandwiched in there to stiffen the front of the frame. Four bolts go up through the original motor mounting holes into threaded holes in the plate. Then the "new" motor sits on four studs with the spacers. I made the spacers by stacking 3 flat washers together and adding a spot of weld on the side to hold them together. It's all coming back off to be cleaned up and painted. I also will buy some new bolts to use instead of the mismatched ones I dug out of my stash. I mounted the PTO assembly too as I wanted to make sure the motor was sitting in correct alignment for the v-belts to run in the pulleys. I also tried the hood to see if that would fit. It goes down over the valve covers ok but there might be a clearance issue with the air cleaner lid and maybe the loop on the end of the dip-stick. Neither of these are huge issues and I might be able to fudge the bottom of the hood and or the hinge a wee to over come it. Hood isn't a big concern as it has already been carved on, if I alter it bit more it's no big deal. Also dug out a piece of copper tube and started bending a fuel line to reach from the tank to the front near where the fuel pump mounts on the air shroud. Left the tube long where it curves up around the air shroud and will cut it back for length when I figure out where the filter fits best before attaching to the pump. That was it for today. Stay tuned.

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Edited by Dave in NY, September 04, 2020 - 08:10 PM.

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#167 Dave in NY ONLINE  

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Posted September 11, 2020 - 05:58 PM

Got the new Kohler crankshaft seals in the mail a couple of days ago. Used a deep socket a race from an old wheel bearing and a bolt threaded in the end of the crankshaft to push the PTO end seal in. Used a deep socket to drive the flywheel side seal in. No issues with either of those. Motor is all put back together with new hoses to the fuel pump and carb. I switched sides the oil drain pipe as I looks easier to drain the oil on the right side of the tractor. I found that a stock Bolens belt guide would fit right on the Kohler, I just had to thread the 2 holes that were there but not threaded. The belt guide was missing from the tractor when I got it. Borrowed this one from the derelict 1254 I have stashed away waiting for who knows what. Possibly make a copy of this bone? Mounted the belt pulley and then bolted the motor in place on the tractor. Hopefully it will stay right there and not have to come back off. Got the fuel line installed with a filter just before the pump. I took the Cub wiring harness pretty much apart and eliminated a lot of wires and plugs that wont be needed on this tractor, saving the  plug for the motor and the key switch with the wires that connect them. I found that the Cub harness already had been cut on and also had a damaged plug where it hooked to a safety switch at the rear of the tractor. So no big sin to take it apart. There will have to be some cutting and changing on what I saved for sure. Still thinking if I want to run a pressure gauge or just a warning light for the oil pressure, and if I want to use an amp gauge or go with a voltmeter.  I also started on fabricating the exhaust system. No pics of that today. When I get the exhaust figured out I can fab some heatshields and partition between the motor and the dash support. Lots to do yet. Going to look for a solid screen that mounts to the fan on the flywheel instead of the one that has the hole where the Cub driveshaft went. Stay tuned.

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#168 Dave in NY ONLINE  

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Posted September 12, 2020 - 06:15 PM

I decided to cut and modify the exhaust header pipe that came with this motor. Added an elbow and a short piece of iron pipe at the end for the Cub Cadet muffler to mate to. These older style Cadet mufflers seem to be my go to solution for what to use. I still have to devise a support brace and quite possibly a heat shield considering to proximity to the plug wire, fuel pump, hoses, etc. Looks like I could patch the side of the hood back to clear the exhaust and still have it look somewhat decent. More to follow, just not sure exactly when. With summer winding down I will be able to squeeze in a bit shop time here and there.

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#169 Dave in NY ONLINE  

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Posted September 14, 2020 - 06:16 PM

Went digging through my stash of metal pieces and came up with enough to fab a support for the muffler. Used two threaded holes at the base of the motor and ran another brace from a convenient bolt that fastens one of the tins to the cylinder near the air shroud. Made a U shaped bracket for the muffler to sit in and a strap to secure it. It seems quite sturdy and ought to do the job. I am going to get a piece of light gauge material to form a heat shield for the muffler  too. After a bit of head scratching and measuring I went and retrieved the heat shields that came with the motor as removed from the Cub. After some more measuring I took the cut-off wheel after them and trimmed off what I figured I didn't need. I am going to get a piece of gauge material to make a new rear panel that these pieces will mate up to. I used a piece of cardboard to make a rough template of what size and shape the new panel needs to be. In the pic I had traced but not cut the cardboard yet. There will be more trimming and some welding, hole drilling involved, but this approach is going to save me a bunch of fabrication time. I almost left these pieces with the remains of the tractor when I bought the motor, now I'm glad I brought then home too. I might use the one piece that remains of the original Bolens heat shield and spot weld the new panel to it. That's a maybe. 

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Edited by Dave in NY, September 14, 2020 - 06:18 PM.

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#170 Dave in NY ONLINE  

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Posted September 18, 2020 - 06:42 PM

I got some pieces cut from 14 gauge sheet steel and fabricated a heat shield for the muffler and also made the partition for the back of the shields coming off the motor and front of the dash support tower. I might relocate the fuel filter but am going to wait till I do a test run of the motor and see how much heat there will actually be right there. I can make the filter tuck in closer to the air shroud by adding a simple clip to hold the hose. We'll see how that plays out.  I did some more trimming on the shields that came with the motor and also cut the partition piece to rough size. I trimmed and then bent the lower shield on both sides so that there is now a gap on either side big enough to put my hand into. I will trim back the top shield a bit too and the openings will be a bit bigger yet. This should exhaust the hot air blown off the motor out from under the bottom edge of the hood and not be blown back into the tower around the battery. I believe that I will use the remaining piece of the original Bolens heat shield assembly and either bolt or spot-weld the new partition to it. That will save me the time of making pieces with slotted holes to bolt the new metal to the tower. Might as well use an original piece and save myself some time. 

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#171 kjmweld ONLINE  

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Posted September 18, 2020 - 06:51 PM

I've always wanted to locate/buy a louver press. That would be something handy to have on your heat shield. Coming along nicely tho. 👌
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#172 Dave in NY ONLINE  

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Posted September 19, 2020 - 07:07 AM

Yes the project is coming along. Some days I don't seem to acomplish much. For every piece made or altered I usually spend as much time thinking about how to do it and what effect it will have on something else. It's pretty easy to get a part bent or welded and then discover you need to remove 2 or 3 other parts next to it just to make things still fit together. Kind of like designing pieces of a puzzle as you go, so to say. Garage engineering! I hope all this works!
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#173 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted September 19, 2020 - 08:29 AM

Yes the project is coming along. Some days I don't seem to acomplish much. For every piece made or altered I usually spend as much time thinking about how to do it and what effect it will have on something else. It's pretty easy to get a part bent or welded and then discover you need to remove 2 or 3 other parts next to it just to make things still fit together. Kind of like designing pieces of a puzzle as you go, so to say. Garage engineering! I hope all this works!

That's how I go about this type of work. Takes a while to accomplish anything.


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#174 Dave in NY ONLINE  

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Posted September 19, 2020 - 10:10 AM

That's how I go about this type of work. Takes a while to accomplish anything.

It sure seems that way. I just came in from another head scratching session, pondering how I will go about fastening all the heat shield pieces together and what I might do with the hood. I believe that for the most part the heat shield pieces should bolt and or screw together to make assembly and dis-assembly easier. I marked out with yellow marker approximately where I will trim some more metal off to open up the air discharge ports a bit more.  More on that later. I knew there was going to be an interference issue with the dip-stick loop and the top of the air-cleaner on the underneath of the hood. If I have the plastic air-cleaner cover that came on the motor in place, the hood sits on it and doesn't close down on the dash plate like it should. I could modify the bottom of the hood and or the hinge to raise it up a bit in the front. About an inch or more would be close, but, that will make a weird gap at the rear where it closes on the dash. I suppose that a custom dash plate could be fabricated that sits an inch or two taller that the original stock one. Possibly that would be a good thing. I could have it laid out to have an amp meter and oil pressure gauge side by side. Lots of design and fab work with that idea. I also could close off the two ports that feed fresh air from the shroud to the base plate of the air-cleaner and just run with the filter element out in the open, that and the loop on the dip-stick will both fit up inside the plastic hood bubble. The loop on the dip-stick could be easily trimmed down a bit if need be. That would be the easy way out. Would still have to mount a warning light for the oil pressure someplace though. I am not going to modify the original dash plate, its in good shape and I hate to cut up nice original parts.  Its a very tempting idea to fab a new taller dash plate assembly for the hood to close down on to. I could get a piece laser cut that would have the slots and holes to mount the throttle, choke controls, 2 gauges and anything else I wanted. This would allow me to modify the bottom edge of the hood where the hinge bolts on and raise the hood a couple of inches on both ends thus having no clearance problems with the air-cleaner. I truthfully wouldn't mind losing the plastic bubble and have a flat hood. Just my preference, if it has to stay, so be it. All food for thought. Probably wont get much done on any of it today. Maybe I'll get an idea later on.

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Edited by Dave in NY, September 19, 2020 - 10:19 AM.

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#175 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted September 19, 2020 - 04:51 PM

From here, it's hard to visualize what you are seeing. Myself, I wouldn't touch the dash. Can you raise the front hood support some to help?


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#176 Dave in NY ONLINE  

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Posted September 19, 2020 - 06:18 PM

Well, I guess some of my pics don't really show what I'm trying to explain. As far as the original dash plate, no, I am not going to alter it. I mentioned possibly making one from scratch that would sit higher and have provisions for 2 gauges. And possibly rework the bottom of the hood and or the hinge to raise the front end. Just thoughts at the present.
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#177 Dave in NY ONLINE  

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Posted September 19, 2020 - 06:49 PM

Ok, here's a a couple of better pics. You can see the yellow loop on the dip-stick sticking up through the hood and a bit of the air-cleaner cover at the front. Without the cover on the air-cleaner, the hood closes down on the dash. When its on, the hood can't close fully and has a gap big enough to shove a pencil in. 

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#178 Dave in NY ONLINE  

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Posted September 20, 2020 - 06:12 PM

Got some done on the heat shield, partition today. Trimmed more metal off the upper half and that opened up the ports on either side a bit more. I welded the bottom shield to the new partition, or rear plate.The new plate then bolts to the remaining piece of the Bolens shield with 1/4" bolts. The front of the shield fits over the bolts that holds the belt guide to the motor. It gets sandwiched between the motor and the belt guide. I trimmed some off the bottom of the original Bolens shield as that gave more access over top of the belt pulley. If I had welded brackets to the new plate that then bolted to the tower it would have been a pain to install or remove this piece without bending the sides of the tower outward or possibly unbolting it from the frame. Neither one of those sounded like a great idea. So I am using the original Bolens piece with battle scars and all. Had to braze up stress cracks at both bottom corners. The top half of the shield bolts to the motors tins just as it did in the Cub and screws to angle pieces that I added to the plate at the rear. I hope I got enough screws in it to hold it. LOL Took it all back apart and ground, filed, sanded, etc. and got a coat of primer on it all. That was enough for this afternoon. Going to remove the header pipe, muffler, shield and support pieces next to get them cleaned up and painted too.

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Edited by Dave in NY, September 21, 2020 - 03:10 AM.

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#179 Dave in NY ONLINE  

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Posted September 24, 2020 - 07:48 PM

I realized that I hadn't figured out yet what I need for v-belts yet. So I got out my box of belts and went at the trial and error process of finding something that might work. I save most belts that I end up with unless they are total trash. Some of them could be used and some are old enough that I mainly use them to size things up. That kind of helps when I go to buy a new belt for something that I have pieced together and have no clue what size belt to ask for. So I found a belt that lines up good for the PTO and also one for the main drive. Looks like 45" for the PTO and 33" [ I guess ] for the main drive. I'll take them with me to the parts store and have them measured. One of the local auto parts stores carries a line of heavy duty L&G belts and I have had good luck with them on my GTs. I got the muffler, heat shield, strap, and header pipe cleaned and painted with high temp paint. Also cleaned and painted the muffler support and some hardware. While I had things apart I decided to fab a new belt guide instead of using the one I borrowed from the 1254. The holes that I threaded in the Kohler are 5/16" and the Bolens belt guide takes 3/8" bolts. I had used two sleeves to adapt the smaller bolts to fit the Bolens guide and it would have worked fine, but I decided to just make one that fit better and return the original to the 1254. It might be another future project and the more parts, pieces that still remain the easier it would be. So I bent a piece of strap around a pipe and using the heat and beat method I got it shaped like the original Bolens part, Used smaller I.D. steel tube that fit the 5/16" bolts better and welded it up, I used the original belt guide for a jig to make sure I had it spaced correctly. It bolted up the Kohler just fine so I cleaned and primed it. That was it for today.

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Edited by Dave in NY, September 25, 2020 - 05:19 AM.

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#180 Dave in NY ONLINE  

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Posted September 27, 2020 - 06:21 AM

I picked up the new belts yesterday that I had ordered at the auto parts store. These are made by Gates and are a heavy duty industrial rated belt. I have had this same style on another tractor for about 3 years now and they seem to be holding up well, so I thought I'd put them on this tractor too. Got the belts and all the pieces I have been working on assembled on the tractor. I installed a longer piece of hose between the filter and fuel pump and that allowed the filter to reposition down below the exhaust and ought to be away from the heat enough to not cause any problems. I also added a small bracket that screws to the air shroud to tuck the hoses in closer to the motor and away from the exhaust. I'll know more about how this works out when I get some wiring harness figured out and can do a test run. I should get to work on the hood soon, as I would like to do the body work part of that project outside in front of the garage instead of having the mess inside. The leaves are rapidly changing and we have had several frosty mornings already, these warm days aren't going to be around much longer. 

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