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#151 Dave in NY OFFLINE  

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Posted June 21, 2020 - 07:08 PM

Finished cleaning and sanding the bottom side. Now has a coat of rust reformer/primer on it. Has to dry 24 hours before painting anything over it.

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#152 Dave in NY OFFLINE  

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Posted June 23, 2020 - 06:47 PM

Yesterday I got the tower removed from the tractor and got it worked over. I did a bit of hammer and dolly work and also a few dabs of Bondo. Lots of sanding and then gave it a good coat of rust reformer. Also used some seam sealer on the fender pan around my repair work and also the factory joint where the two pieces join together. That was all I got accomplished as we had a severe storm and lightning knocked out the power at about 5:30 PM. Never came back on till 7:45 AM today. So today I went to a local auto parts and bought some primer. A Nason product that I have never used before. It is a urethane that mixes with an activator. This was soft of an experiment as I have an automotive repair job coming up soon and I want to use something like this. Not cheap but not the most expensive either, middle of the road so to say. It seemed to go on well and looks like it will work just fine. I got about 2 hours between rain storms to give both a couple of full wet coats. Note the water puddle in the driveway. I will let them sit a couple of days and wet sand them, see what it looks like.

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#153 kjmweld ONLINE  

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Posted June 23, 2020 - 06:56 PM

They look nice & straight. You did a nice job on that fender pan Dave. Did you get them in before they got rain drops on them?
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#154 Dave in NY OFFLINE  

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Posted June 23, 2020 - 08:02 PM

Just by minutes. Was cleaning up when it started in again. That’s ok. Beats having the mess inside the garage.
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#155 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted June 24, 2020 - 07:15 AM

Look great - keep up the great work.


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#156 Dave in NY OFFLINE  

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Posted June 25, 2020 - 03:29 AM

Look great - keep up the great work.

I'm trying! Just hard to find the time. I really prefer to do body and paint work during the warm months. Small pieces like this are easy to wheel or carry outside for sanding and painting. Really cuts down on the mess inside the garage. The tricky part is to find the perfect day for painting. I suppose I could rig up a temporary painting area in the garage with plastic tarps or plastic sheets. If I did a lot of this type of work I would have to.
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#157 Dave in NY OFFLINE  

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Posted June 27, 2020 - 07:20 AM

I wet sanded the tower and fender yesterday and found a few places that I had some sanding scratches showing. Mostly on the fender. I guess my eyesight and patience aren't quite what they used to be. That and I just don't do much of this type of work anymore to be in practice. Anyway- I decided to just glaze the offending places  with some 3M spot putty instead of mixing more urethane primer and spraying again. That would be the preferred way to do it, but this will be easier, simpler for me. Kind of the old-school way for paint prep till the urethane and epoxy primes came along. The urethane primer I put on seemed to do a nice job and I will give them another application of it after I sand out these spots. Just a fender for a worker tractor and It doesn't need to be 100% perfect.

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#158 Dave in NY OFFLINE  

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Posted July 31, 2020 - 08:03 PM

I haven't touched this for a month now as I have had numerous other projects that truthfully were more important. This morning I decided to take the time to get some paint on the fender pan. I wet sanded it thoroughly and re-primed it. Then I made a quick fixture that I fastened to the firewood hauler [modified wheelbarrow] to make it easy to paint both sides without hanging it from something on wires. Then off to the store I went in search of paint. I decided to use spray cans instead of buying a quart and mixing with thinner, using the spray-gun. I took the easy way to avoid the process and cleanup when finished. Used good-old Rustoleum. It seemed to go on ok with no issues and looks good enough for me. Its not perfect, but this isn't a restoration or showpiece. I have hopes to spend a bit of time working on the tractor, but I figure it will only be a short time before I get sidetracked again by something else.

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#159 Dave in NY OFFLINE  

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Posted August 03, 2020 - 07:03 PM

I got some gloss black sprayed on the dash support a couple of days ago and it turned out ok. Was quite rusted and bent when I first started on it. Can still see a few pits from the rust in a few places, but at least it's solid and reasonably straight now. I got that bolted back on today and the hydraulic control valve bolted to it without scratching it up too badly. I then went to work at getting the hoses routed so they looked good too. I did end up installing a 90 deg. ell where the return hose attaches to the filter housing. That made the supply and return hoses run along the frame tube and nest together in a neater appearing configuration. I did the best I could at making the hoses coming off the control valve to not look like a bowl of spaghetti. I finally said it was good enough, they are covered up by the battery tray and won't be seen anyway. I bolted the tray back in to check that it still fit over the hoses with no interference issues. All good. Just because- I checked that the dash plate still fit over the mounting studs. All good there too. I think I am going to bolt a 5 hp B&S motor on the tractor next as a temporary power source. I want to fill the transaxle with fluid and test the lift system for proper function and hopefully have zero leaks. Now would be the time to see if there are any issues and get them corrected before getting the tractor all back together. This might be soon, it might be a few days from now. Stay tuned.

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#160 Dave in NY OFFLINE  

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Posted August 04, 2020 - 07:56 PM

I got time today to do a test run of the tractor. I did this quickie motor install on a 1254 I have just to see what kind of condition the transaxle was in. So I unbolted the motor from it and bolted in in place on this tractor. I found a v-belt that would work and was able to line up a grove in the pulley on the motor and one on the driveshaft. The pulley on the motor is for a gear-drive application so that's why the misalignment of the belt groves. Nothing very high tech here just 2 scraps of 2x4s,  some carriage bolts and threaded rod with washers and nuts. I filled the transmission with hy-trans fluid and gave it a go. After cycling the lift system and running the transmission forward and reverse a few times I then refilled it to the bottom of the fill hole. I had the rear of the tractor jacked up at the rear so the tires weren't touching the floor when first trying it. After that I put a blanket and a foam pad over the seat support and gas tank to have something to sit on. Took it out for a short drive and all seems well. I probably will tweak the adjustments on the linkage for the foot-treadle and maybe for the brake. I'll know more about that later after getting the tractor in useable condition. The 5 hp. B&S had enough oomph to move it around but I doubt it would ever be able to do much actual work if at all. I didn't see any obvious leaks from anywhere, so that was a good sign. I parked the tractor with newspaper under it incase there is a drip somewhere. I'll know soon enough. I don't remember it leaking before I took it apart, but you never know. I am going to mount a snow blade on it next and see if the lift cylinder stays dry with no leaks. I hadn't tested it for lifting power or leakage prior to this, I just knew it went in and out, or up and down when the control lever was moved. Stay tuned. 

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#161 kjmweld ONLINE  

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Posted August 04, 2020 - 08:07 PM

Coming along very nicely, looks great. 👍
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#162 Dave in NY OFFLINE  

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Posted August 06, 2020 - 08:21 PM

I didn't see any drips on the newspaper under the tractor so that's a good sign. So I started up the little Briggs motor and drove the tractor out to my barn and mounted a snow blade on it. This blade is the one that came with the tractor when I bought it. I cycled it  up and down several times and then left it in the lifted position to see what happens. I suppose it could leak back through the control valve and end up resting on the floor. I am wondering if the cylinder will leak past its seals and get damp around the rod. I might be wrong on this approach, but thought this might show me if the cylinder is good as is or not.

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#163 Dave in NY OFFLINE  

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Posted August 14, 2020 - 07:18 PM

As usual I've been busy with things not tractor related. Just how it goes. I did determine that the lift cylinder was going to leak. The weight of the blade hanging on the tractor made it leak a small spot of oil on the floor. Cylinder and rod were damp, obviously leaking. So I ordered an O-ring kit from Bolens Parts and Supplies. Today it had arrived in my mailbox so I took time to remove the cylinder and re-ring it. Cylinder didn't look too bad internally and though there was some discoloration on the rod it all cleaned up good. The original o-rings were obviously worn as I could see they had flat wear spots on them. Followed the recommendations and got it back together and reinstalled. I cycled it back and forth many times and so far the rod is dry and no signs of any leakage. Haven't seen any other leakage anyplace else on the tractor so things are looking good. I wonder if I should try letting it sit with the blade elevated again and see what happens? I suspect the leak is fixed. Hope so.
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#164 Dave in NY OFFLINE  

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Posted August 31, 2020 - 08:25 PM

I believe that the lift cylinder is good to go now as I haven't seen any leaks since installing the new O-rings. I also now have a motor to install on the tractor. I have been looking for some time now for a V-twin to install. Been watching the classifieds and beating the bushes so to say. I saw an add for a likely candidate about a year ago but hesitated and someone quickly bought it while I was "thinking about it". I decided a couple of months ago that possibly the best approach would be to find a complete tractor and take the motor from it. I had 2 different motors in mind, a B&S Vanguard or a Kohler Command. Both of these are used in certain Cub Cadet models that are so common around my area. I also decided that if I hadn't found something by about October that I would remove the 16 hp. Vanguard and all the associated repower pieces from my 1054 and put them on this tractor. So last week I happened to run into an old acquaintance of mine that used to have a Cub dealership. Told him that I was looking for a 2186 Cub that had a decent motor. He mentioned that he had a tractor with a bad hydro with a 23hp. Kohler and he would give me a deal on it. Kind of overkill going that big on hp. for a tube frame tractor I thought. But I told him I would look at it and we went on our separate ways. About a hour later he came by my house and said that he also had a 2186 Cub [18hp.] that he had been hanging on to because he had been intending to fix and use it but hadn't gotten around to it and possibly wouldn't. He mentioned a price and I told him I was for sure interested. So yesterday I took my trailer, ramps and some cash and headed off to possibly bring home a Cub Cadet. When I got to his place he had the tractor sitting in his shop and had had it running. All the sheet metal was off the tractor and a big puddle of oil was under the hydro-trans. It started right up and ran great. I saw it run for about 10 minutes and figure it ought to be a solid motor. The reason the tractor was parked was a massive leak from the hydro trans. and also the mowing deck was shot. I allowed that I had no interest in the tractor itself and just wanted the motor and at least part of the wiring harness. So right there he decided to sell me what I wanted and he would keep the rest for parts for other projects. The price was adjusted some, I handed over some cash, and the tools came out. In just about an hour I was on my way home with the motor, muffler, wiring harness with key switch ,both battery cables and the heat shields. Don't' expect I can use the shields but they ended up in the mix. So now I have a motor and can get going on this project again. One of the nice things about this Kohler is that it has a 1 1/8" crankshaft and the belt pulley fits perfectly. I gave the motor and harness a shot of Purple Power and a rinse with the hose. Going to remove the air shroud and tins to clean it out. It doesn't look very bad but I figure it couldn't hurt. Not sure how fast the project will go now, but at least I now have the motor.

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#165 Dave in NY OFFLINE  

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Posted September 02, 2020 - 06:24 PM

I got the motor up on a temporary stand today. Drained the oil and removed the drain hose. Won't need that. Got the air shroud and starter off. Found the typical grunge you would expect in a motor from a GT that mowed grass. No mouse or mud dauber nests though. Going to pop the flywheel and clean out behind that, and check the crank seal too. 

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