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Shop Extension Using Pallets


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#1 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted October 26, 2019 - 02:46 PM

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Model Train Room. I started this project about six weeks ago but knew it would be slow because of time doing other things. I've been wanting to do this for a couple of years & was inspired last year seeing some pics of Cvans extension in the back of his shop. Right now it will get some tractors out of the weather this winter along with getting my wood trim & plywood bin out of my shop. This thing needs organized & it's taking up about a 4x10 area.



My shop is a 21'w x 30'L two car garage. I still do a lot of wood working, welding, & tractor work in this. I now have two tractors & one engine standing by for this winter. I really can't get around like I want to. This extension is 16'w x 16'L back wall 7'H, front wall will be 10'H, & around 12' in the middle. Yeah I know not very big but for now that's all the space I have without crossing a ditch & going into the woods with it. I'm planning on building a pole barn next year much larger that will house everything & this shop extension will be converted to my long time wanting model train room.



I lost my grading pics where I took my Sears SS 15 with a snow/grader blade & moved some dirt around to create a natural drain area where sometimes a lot of water drains in this area. I'm trying to keep costs down but not sacrificing structure. I started out with 6x6 pressure treated posts with 2x6 framing & a double 2x6 beam. I have a ample supply of pallets that yield mostly three or four 8 & 10 foot 4x4 that are around 3 3/4 x 3 1/2 solid oak, poplar & cherry. These will be part of my floor frame & studs. The pieces of 4x4 are 16" OC between the 2x6's. I sheeted the floor with 3/4" tongue & groove OSB.


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This thing is so solid with no bounce anywhere. Next up I'll be picking up some more pallets to break down for the walls. I'm almost more excited about this being a model train room because all my stuff has been stored for almost five years.


Edited by Sawdust, October 27, 2019 - 02:33 PM.

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#2 tractorskipper OFFLINE  

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Posted October 26, 2019 - 07:34 PM

Looks good and sturdy.  Where I live, I would have put a vapor barrier under the OSB.  OSB does not like dampness/moisture.  How are you nailing into that oak?


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#3 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted October 26, 2019 - 10:09 PM

I thought about a moisture issue. I'm hoping with the amount of space under there it won't be. I built a 12x24 cabin with osb at a place we use to have. I stapled plastic underneath & the moisture got trapped & rotted in three years.I used 3 1/4" ring shanked framing nails with a framing gun at 110-120 pounds of air pressure. The same gun normally works great at 80-90lbs.in spf.
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#4 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted October 28, 2019 - 09:57 AM

I think if you check structural strength standards 2X6 floor joist are not recommended for any span over 6' and your going 8'.  I hope things work out in your favor as your putting a lot of work and material in to it. 



#5 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted October 29, 2019 - 05:58 PM

I think if you check structural strength standards 2X6 floor joist are not recommended for any span over 6' and your going 8'.  I hope things work out in your favor as your putting a lot of work and material in to it. 

Several things I took in consideration building this. Keeping it on a low budget without compromising structure, using what I had, the purpose of it, & I'm out in the country if it works it's good. Typical spans are calculated 1.5 x the board depth. Since mine are 1x6's that would be 1.5 x 5.5 = 8.25 that's a slight overkill not to mention my use of the 4x4's in between. I'm not worried about it at all. This thing is solid.



#6 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted October 29, 2019 - 06:26 PM

I picked up another load of pallets, this time I think I maxed myself out on the height. Before breaking these down I winched the load down all but the top three pallets. Is was easy to climb up the load, stand up on top & start breaking the boards apart then tossing them overboard. Once I got these done I jumped down or I should say crawled down since I don't jump much anymore then cleaned up the area then repeat. It takes about three hours to do a load.

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I'm framing the walls 4' oc for now mainly because I'm not sure how heavy this thing will be when I raise it. I'm using typical 2x4's for the bottom & top plates because I don't like toe nailing. My friend that I get the pallets from uses the 4x4's for his plates & toe nails everything, him & his son have built some fantastic projects with these pallets all for free. I'm tempted to build a 3 sided shed just to store a good supply to have for later. Instead of using store bought beam material I just doubled up on the 4x4's on top of the plate board. I used 6" pole barn spikes every 16" all around pre drilling though the first coarse. These 4x4's are a combination of poplar, oak, & cherry. I made the mistake of using cherry in the wrong places building my wife's chicken coop. On my shed I made sure the cherry 4x4's were on the top of my walls so I didn't have to drive the spikes into them.

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The pallets have a large variety of bottom & top boards. Most are 1x4,6 & 8"s of poplar & oak. I did get several 1x12's but I put these aside for other projects. Each board has about 9 to 12 nails in them. I don't mind pulling nails to save some money. When I was a kid my dad would bring home a lot of scrap wood from crates sometimes on Fridays. My job on Saturday mornings were pulling nails, straightening them & organizing them in baby food jars. I also got to build things with the wood but is was funny I was to never use the 1x12's unless I had a good reason & permission. The 1x12's were dads holy grail of his wood pile. I'm using these bottom & top boards for my Girt boards.

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After sitting on a bucket & drinking coffee for awhile I started thinking again. Since I'm doing this on a wing it as I go I now have several reasons to add more posts. #1. Since all my girt boards are exactly 48" all my butt joints will be on the same 4' oc post not much lateral support this way. #2. I should hang 1/2" osb board inside at least 48" up from the floor to protect the metal walls from the inside. #3. Since this might be my train room later I would like to hang 1/2" osb board on all the walls. #4. I have plenty of boards to do this. So next up will be cutting more posts about 12 I think would give me posts 24" oc...I'm liking this idea. Stay tuned!


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#7 Dcarr OFFLINE  

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Posted October 30, 2019 - 10:11 AM

Nice project ! Always good to have a little more dry space and recycling wood is a plus .


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#8 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2019 - 10:24 AM

I finally got this framed & ready for metal. It's been very hard unlike typical framing where you can hold a board & nail it. These pieces are much heavier along with my framing gun it's a struggle. I built log homes for a few years & I had some flash backs of handling heavy materials much younger back then though. I'm glad I went with the extra studs like I mentioned earlier. It's a major over kill but will be useful when I go to sheet the interior later.

 

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One of my reasons for building this was to get my rather large rolling wood bin out of my shop because it takes up so much space. After looking at the back side the way the elevation drops I thought about an extension on this extension. :tapping_fingers: My thoughts are to drop down about 18" from the bottom of my floor & going out 8'. The 8' point would be right at the fence post where the fence rail is hanging down. I would also stay with going along the long wall 16' this would give me an extension of 8x16 that could be used only for my wood storage for trim & sheating. I could also continue the same roof pitch as it would end up being around 8' high on the far left side. I would have an entry door for this section only. I could hang 1/2" OSB as planned for later but doing it now on the interior wall of my Shop Extension to divide the two areas. Once I get it framed & get a better feel of it by walking around I might install an opening between the two areas inside. The problem with this would be by the time I make an opening & a couple of steps this might take up too much needed space. 

 

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I'm going to order the metal for the roof tomorrow so if the weather permits I might get to work on this later on in the week. Any ideas or questions throw them at me

 

 


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#9 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2019 - 03:26 PM

Nice framing with unconventional materials!


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#10 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted February 24, 2020 - 11:01 AM

Well it's been awhile but seems like we are getting a lot of rain this year compared to snow or freezing weather. I got my roof metal about a month ago but it laid in my trailer waiting for dry weather. I'm going with a charcoal gray on the roof & light gray on the walls. This has been my second time installing metal, first was my wifes chicken coop & now this. I found out it is very unforgiving especially on salvaged lumber from pallets. Being a perfectionist using this pallet lumber with various sizes has been a challenge not to mention the weight of the boards while holding a framing gun.
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The roof is done with the exception of adding some more screws in a few places on the front. I got eight tractors in there with two still in my shop. I'm very happy their out of the weather even though I had them covered. The one on the far right is my newly acquired Bolens G11XL & the one in front on the left is my MTD990. A little rain gets blown in there a little is why I kept these covered. I'm hoping to get walls covered in a few weeks.
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This buck has been hanging around since last fall. He's not very scared of me. I was dragging ladders around & firing my framing gun a few times & he just watches me. He eats a lot of the black locust pods laying on the ground. He's got two small points right now.
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I'll post the side extension framing later on today.


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