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Salvaging a G-14


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#1 dtsh OFFLINE  

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Posted September 23, 2019 - 10:26 AM

I found a relatively local G-14 which was reported to have a junk engine and not much more description. My other Bolens is a Husky 750, which has been a great machine but it has some design elements I'm not real keen on such as using an idler to cause belt slip instead of a clutch and a 3 speed without a locking differential, so getting one of the nicer 6 speed machines has been on my radar for a while now.

When I got there to look at it, I could see it had been abused. The seat was missing entirely, the fender pan has a number of large cracks in the sheet metal where the seat would bolt, a large gash in the fender pan where a hydraulic lift was once installed, missing PTO, the bottom of the hood was torn on both sides where the hinge is, and a "junk engine". It's in sad shape, so we talked as I looked it over and we settled on a price both were willing to accept and I loaded it up and set off for home.

My biggest concern was the condition of the transmission, so once it was in the shop my first task was to peel it open and ascertain the condition. The axle seals are leaking too, but that's to be expected.



A view of the front compartment

G-14_transmission_internals_fore.jpg

 

 

And one of the rear

G-14_transmission_internals_aft.jpg

 

Looks like there's not a lot of damage, some wear and a little loss of material, but nothing to turn it from potential tractor to scrap.

I'm not the best machinist in the world, but fabricating a part here or there is within my capabilities, my biggest shortcomming here is I usually stop short of right and settle on "good enough". Body work is something I'll deal with later, for now what I need to decide on is what I want to drop in for an engine. I've done engine swaps before, so mounting isn't a concern.

It had a Tecumseh HH140 in it that doesn't appear to have compression. The piston moves when I turn the flywheel and nothing appears broken on a quick inspection. I'm not a fan of these engines and it's in a non-running state, so I'm inclined to call the engine a total loss and drop in something else. Right now I am considering two choices, a LiFan LF190F-BDQC (15HP, 18 amp charging) and I am also considering one of the Yanmar 10HP diesel clones. Either of these is likely going to involve some modification of the hood. I'm interested in the diesel, but it's twice the price and it lacks features the LiFan has, electric start and an alternator. I could get by without the electric start, but not having an alternator to keep the battery charged is annoying (My 750 has no chargine circuit). I could cobble in an alternator, but having it built in is preferable. I may consider attempting to diagnose the HH140, but given parts availabilty and cost, I'm less inclined to do so.

Any engine suggestions or alternatives I haven't considered?
Input is appreciated, thanks!

 


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#2 diesel nut ONLINE  

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Posted September 23, 2019 - 10:40 AM

If you want a diesel with electric start and charging there's some on ebay.  This one seems like a reasonable price https://www.ebay.com...m4383.l4275.c10  and this place has one pretty much the same plus several Kohler single and inline 2 & 3 cylinders depending on how much you want to spend on one https://www.carrolls...ngines-s/36.htm


Edited by diesel nut, September 23, 2019 - 10:40 AM.

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#3 dthomp17 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 23, 2019 - 10:42 AM

Before I gave up on the HH140 be sure that you don't have a stuck valve problem. That can be a relatively easy and inexpensive fix.


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#4 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted September 23, 2019 - 03:45 PM

The transmission gears look to be in very nice shape - while the tractor may have been abused looks like no one ground the gears much - great find.  Look forward to hearing on what you go with for an engine and how you like the 6 speed transmission.  My 1050's have both been repowered with Honda GX390's - the last one I did I ordered a new engine with an 18 amp charging system and electric start- not inexpensive and a bit of work to get it to fit without modifying the hood but I am quite happy with the results.  Did a thread on it on the site - if you are interested let me know and I will post a link.


Edited by 29 Chev, September 23, 2019 - 03:50 PM.

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#5 dtsh OFFLINE  

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Posted September 23, 2019 - 11:53 PM

Thank you diesel nut,

That is pretty much the exact engine I'm considering. It seems it only has an 8 amp charging circuit; while that isn't useless it is less than I was hoping for.

 

Thanks dthomp17,

I haven't given up on it, but I'm not expecting much. I can see at one point in relatively recent time the head was pulled, the starter was removed (no idea where that got off to, didn't come with it), and I'm willing to bet it holds more surprises. The fellow I got it from had a small engine shop, perhaps he didn't look it over much, but I'm guessing there's a reason he sold it as a non-runner. Who knows, maybe he didn't have time or hates Tecumsehs.  :P

 

29 Chev,

I'm pretty sure I remember the thread you're talking about, your threads are often inspirational and I should re-read it. I am assuming with whichever engine I choose I'll probably need to reroute intake, exhaust,, and probably the gas tank to get things in the way I want them.


Edited by dtsh, September 23, 2019 - 11:55 PM.

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#6 diesel nut ONLINE  

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Posted September 24, 2019 - 10:39 AM

If the diesels are anything like the Honda knockoff Predator motors from Harbor Freight there's a good chance you can get a higher amp charging system from Yanmar and it should bolt right on


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#7 dtsh OFFLINE  

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Posted September 26, 2019 - 12:46 PM

diesel nut - That is a consideration.

 

I've started looking into the Tec to see what's what with it. In addition to the starter having been removed and drifted to some other location, the ignition unit also appears to have have been removed and has also parted ways. These bits alone cost a significant portion of a new engine, so it is now officially dead. I've seen where people have cobbled together other ignitions, but again cost on top of an unknown engine exceeds it's value (at least to me).

 

It will be a while before I bother to order an engine, but at the moment it's looking like it will be the diesel.


Edited by dtsh, September 26, 2019 - 12:48 PM.

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#8 dtsh OFFLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2019 - 06:36 PM

Should anyone be interested in the HH140 parts, see here:

https://gardentracto...14-parting-out/


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#9 Dave in NY ONLINE  

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Posted September 29, 2019 - 09:57 AM

Some may disapprove of doing a repower as it takes away the originality of the tractor. If it were a rather low production piece, running and good condition I would be inclined to agree with that sentiment. But- seeing as the tractor is fairly common, non-running, etc. I very much agree with your plan to refurbish it with a modern engine (parts are more readily available and affordable) and give it some TLC. Do a respectable job of it and you will have a very capable and dependable worker. Much better than having another GT go to the shredder like so many have already. Yes, I know- you can't save everything. Looking foreward to your project.
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#10 dtsh OFFLINE  

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Posted September 29, 2019 - 10:54 PM

I've got a ways to go before I deal with this, but here's the tin work that's going to need fixing eventually. The plan is to clean it up and mig weld the cracks then grind them down. Thankfully the sheet steel isn't terribly thin.

 

 

I'll need to patch this gash. Looks like it was cut to allow for a hydraulic cylinder for the lift.

g14_pan1.jpg

 

All of the bolt holes have cracked. I may try to reinforce these when I repair it.

g14_pan2.jpg

 

Both sides of the hood look similar. It looks to me like there's enough lost material that I will end up fabricating a patch to weld in. Likely reinforce here too.

g14_hood.jpg

 

I may try to fix this, but it's probably going to be easier to find a replacement.

g14_pto.jpg

 

That's pretty much the extent of the real damage I've seen. There's minor things here and there I've seen, such as the engagement pin on the lift being heavily worn and I have yet to pull the clutch and see what shape that is in.


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#11 Dave in NY ONLINE  

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Posted September 30, 2019 - 05:14 AM

Yep, the cutout on the fender pan was for a lift cylinder. The lower- hinge area of the hood is a very common place to see damage. I suspect most of that happens when the hood is allowed to tilt forward beyond its normal range of travel. The hood support assembly is unbolted or removed and that's when the stress and bending start. I have had to straighten and reinforce two of mine. The hinges get a bit bent and can have cracks too. Very much fixable. The pto assembly possibly would be easier to replace? Do you have the piece, pieces that are broken off?
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#12 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted September 30, 2019 - 09:01 AM

The fender pan on my 1053 had a lot of the material around the inner cutout for the transmission cover and cylinnder area "modified" by a previous owner - you can see how I repaired it by filling back in the various missing sections.

 

https://gardentracto...project/page-12

 

My fender was rusted where the seat bolted on but was solid around the four mounting bolts - could probably tack a piece of 1/8" x 1-1/2" flat steel on the bottom side as it shouldn't raise the fender height enough to bother alignment and give should provide strength for the mounting bolts.  I would leave the cylinder hole so that if you come across a hydraulic lift set up in the future you won't have to modify the fender to allow it to fit on your tractor - just a suggestion. On mine I originally filled the cylinder hole in and then ended up having to cut the hole back open  when I mounted the hydraulic lift I made for mine using an aftermarket cylinder.

 

https://gardentracto...cylinder/page-8

 

The PTO housing could probably be bronzed if you have the other piece but it will probably be easier to find another housing.  Lots to keep you busy fixing for a few hours but in the end you will end up with a tractor that will serve you well for years to come.


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#13 dtsh OFFLINE  

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Posted October 02, 2019 - 10:36 PM

I noticed it when I first looked at the tractor, the stop for the lift arm wobbled. At first I didn't give it much mind, figured a bolt was loose or something and paid no further mind. It kept popping up in my mind though and tonight while I was working on the car it occured to me....that part isn't bolted on, it's welded, which means this one's broken.

 

Adding that into the list of bits that will need repair as we go along. I have a spare mounting plate assembly left over from the 650, but I think I can repair this one. If not, I'll put on the one from the 650.

 

Not much time for any major work, pulled the rear panel and dash off as one assembly and set it aside. There's a lot of dirt in there and under some of the dirt, I found the bezel for the tachometer sitting on the base of the steering support column; I didn't expect to find that.

 

I'll probably end up stripping the frame all the way down, much as I did with the 750 and see what other surprises we'll discover.


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#14 Dave in NY ONLINE  

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Posted October 03, 2019 - 05:16 AM

Stripping one down sure is a lot of work, but it also gives the chance to clean and examine everything. In my case I found stress cracks and some less than perfect mounting hardware on several items. Hopefully you don't find too much damage, wear n tear. All that seems to depend on how hard it got used in the past. My 1220 had lots of rigorous use (abuse?) with a snow-dirt blade and was quite beat up because of it.
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#15 dtsh OFFLINE  

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Posted October 03, 2019 - 10:05 AM

Tachometer? Did I really say tachometer? I'm blaming that on the travel and mental weariness, the bezel is for the ammeter as there isn't a tachometer on these - though I do have one around here somewhere.


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