Jump to content

Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

Winter project


  • Please log in to reply
200 replies to this topic

#1 jdcrawler OFFLINE  

jdcrawler

    tinkerer

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1639
  • 5296 Thanks
  • 2112 posts
  • Location: Madison, Indiana

Posted September 20, 2019 - 11:26 AM

When we moved down to Madison, Indiana, I hadn't planned on building any more tractors and I have actually sold some of my tractors since we moved here.
However .. under the circumstances .. I'm glad that this tractor became available to me now because it gives me an interesting and challenging project to work on and it helps take my mind off other things.

.......................................................................................................................................................................

So ... for those of you that may have missed my previous post looking for information .. I'll start here at the beginning.
This is what is left of a small tractor that I picked up at the last show I was at.

DSC01033_zpspt8v0zca.jpg

DSC01032_zpsmgopoqvx.jpg


I had no idea of what it was when I got it and I have since learned that it was originally a Centaur, 2-wheel, walk-behind garden tractor that was built from 1923 thru 1925.
This is how the design of the tractor looked from the factory.

1923%20-%201925%20Centaur_zpssnqscgfh.jp


Some one had converted it into a riding tractor a long time ago and I'm going to rebuild it as a riding tractor.
My son gave me this 9HP Briggs & Stratton engine that was built in 1957 and I'm going to use it to power this tractor.

DSC01044_zpslm4woeas.jpg

DSC01043_zpswo01xi39.jpg


The input shaft on the transmission is in the front and it had a clutch between the engine and the transmission.

DSC01026_zpswq5cwbzs.jpg


I want to put the Briggs engine inline like the original engine was and I need to make a clutch system for it so I picked up this flywheel and clutch parts off a Farmall Cub to put on the Briggs engine.

DSC01048_zpsrguskknh.jpg


I'm using a piece of 3" diameter steel to make the flywheel adapter out of.
This is chucked up in my lathe and both ends have been squared off.

DSC01050_zps886g8g2c.jpg


Then I bored it out to fit on the Briggs crankshaft.

DSC01058_zpsuvwooq4a.jpg


It fits snugly onto the crankshaft.

DSC01059_zpsm62gb7kf.jpg


And it also fits snugly into the back of the flywheel.
The Briggs engine has a starter/generator on it already so I removed the starter ring gear from the flywheel.

DSC01060_zpspfm1y0qa.jpg


The crankshaft sticking out the back of this engine does not have a keyway  in it so I need to come up with a good way to lock this flywheel adapter so it won't spin on the crankshaft.

I have four 3/8-24 setscrews that have a pin boss machined on the end of them and three regular setscrews and I'm going to use them to lock the flywheel onto the crankshaft.

DSC01069_zpscyxnii3m.jpg


First I drill and tap three holes on the end of the adapter that goes toward the engine.

DSC01063_zpstrkpq4x4.jpg

DSC01061_zpsltrwbvx3.jpg


Then I turn the adapter around and drill four holes that are .002 larger then the diameter of the pin boss on the set screws.

DSC01064_zpsspihyype.jpg


The adapter is slid onto the crankshaft and tightened down with the three setscrews.
Then the four locating holes are drilled into the crankshaft.
I'm using spacers on the drill so all of the holes are drilled to the same depth.

DSC01065_zpshangdvgk.jpg


The pin boss on the ends of the setscrews will set down into these holes and keep the adapter from rotating on the crankshaft.
When I tighten the seven set screws in the adapter down onto the crankshaft, I will then screw another set screw down on top of those first setscrews to lock them in place.

DSC01066_zpsf1tllv3r.jpg


The adapter is set back up in the drill press and the four holes are then drilled out and tapped.

DSC01067_zpsqrsflvz5.jpg


Edited by jdcrawler, September 20, 2019 - 11:28 AM.

  • olcowhand, Alc, KennyP and 8 others have said thanks

#2 KennyP OFFLINE  

KennyP

    FORDoholic

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2253
  • 48955 Thanks
  • 51659 posts
  • Location: Collinsville, Oklahoma

Posted September 20, 2019 - 03:33 PM

This will be a learning experience! Go for it, Ray!


  • jdcrawler, Kster526 and Mark 149 J. have said thanks

#3 olcowhand OFFLINE  

olcowhand

    Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Sponsor
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 20
  • 44084 Thanks
  • 32300 posts
  • Location: South Central Kentucky

Posted September 20, 2019 - 05:19 PM

Following!


  • jdcrawler, Kster526 and Mark 149 J. have said thanks

#4 Alc OFFLINE  

Alc

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1094
  • 8930 Thanks
  • 8266 posts
  • Location: Bangor Pa

Posted September 21, 2019 - 04:59 AM

Ray , I said this to many of your builds and will say it again . " Your an inspiration to all of us "   your ideas , skills , enginerine and I could go on and on . Thanks so much for spending the time to share it with those like myself that would love to be able to do what you do . Al 


  • olcowhand, jdcrawler, KennyP and 3 others have said thanks

#5 jdcrawler OFFLINE  

jdcrawler

    tinkerer

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1639
  • 5296 Thanks
  • 2112 posts
  • Location: Madison, Indiana

Posted September 21, 2019 - 05:59 PM

With the flywheel sitting on the adapter, I use a center punch to mark the location of the dowel pin.

DSC01070_zps5cculjdo.jpg


This hole is then drilled out and finished to size with a reamer.

DSC01071_zpsuepynyt8.jpg


Then the dowel pin is pressed into it.

DSC01072_zpsdf5mrvwi.jpg


With the dowel pin installed, the four bolt holes can then be center punched.

DSC01073_zps6p2ddlzg.jpg


Then those holes are drilled out and tapped for the mounting bolts.

DSC01074_zpslf9sxpj4.jpg



The only thing left to finish this part of the project is to make a pilot bearing.
Here I have turned down a piece of brass to fit into the hole in the end of the adapter.

DSC01077_zpsqykfxzof.jpg


The brass is cut to length and then I turn it around and face off the end.
Then the hole is drilled in the center and finished to size with a reamer.

DSC01078_zpsuld6e9su.jpg

The pilot bearing is then pressed into the end of the adapter.

DSC01079_zps1u91qphj.jpg

The flywheel is finally bolted onto the adapter.

DSC01080_zpsucvbkbrt.jpg


The transmission shaft is set in place to line up the clutch disk and the pressure plate is bolted down to the flywheel.

DSC01081_zpsoqygqmpu.jpg


The finished flywheel is slid onto the end of the crankshaft and all of the setscrews are tightened down.

DSC01082_zpsj4wsiw4k.jpg


This flywheel felt kind of heavy as I was working with it and I thought about putting it on my son's bigger lathe and turning the back side of it down to lighten it up some.
I set the flywheel on my digital weight scale and was surprised to see that it only weighs 20 pounds.

...... 20 pounds didn't use to feel this heavy when I was younger ...... anyway .. with it only weighing 20 pounds, I don't feel that I need to cut it down any.


  • Alc, KennyP, Leonard VanCamp and 3 others have said thanks

#6 Dcarr OFFLINE  

Dcarr
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 95176
  • 428 Thanks
  • 230 posts
  • Location: Arizona

Posted September 21, 2019 - 06:30 PM

Excellent machine work . Having an electric starter will sure beat that hand crank on the Centaur . Could be a good wrist buster if it kicked back


  • jdcrawler, KennyP and Kster526 have said thanks

#7 jdcrawler OFFLINE  

jdcrawler

    tinkerer

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1639
  • 5296 Thanks
  • 2112 posts
  • Location: Madison, Indiana

Posted September 21, 2019 - 07:12 PM

Excellent machine work . Having an electric starter will sure beat that hand crank on the Centaur . Could be a good wrist buster if it kicked back

 

I'm getting old enough that I don't like to have to crank these engines over by hand sometimes.

That is why I have sold some of my restored tractors because they were hand start and putting an electric starter on them would ruin the restoration.

 

It doesn't matter on something like this because it is just a hodgepodge of mixed parts to start with and not a restoration of anything.


  • olcowhand, Alc, KennyP and 1 other said thanks

#8 IHCubCadet147 ONLINE  

IHCubCadet147
  • Senior Member
  • GTt Junior
  • Member No: 93788
  • 1252 Thanks
  • 564 posts
  • Location: PA

Posted September 21, 2019 - 07:46 PM

Cool project!
  • jdcrawler said thank you

#9 Kster526 OFFLINE  

Kster526
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 77872
  • 2029 Thanks
  • 1035 posts
  • Location: Oley,Pa

Posted September 22, 2019 - 01:39 PM

Please continue with the updates all the way thru.
Well done jealous of your machinist skills.
  • jdcrawler said thank you

#10 jdcrawler OFFLINE  

jdcrawler

    tinkerer

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1639
  • 5296 Thanks
  • 2112 posts
  • Location: Madison, Indiana

Posted September 22, 2019 - 05:18 PM

It is now time to start taking the tractor apart.
This has been sitting outside for longer then some of you have been alive and it is all rusted up tight.

Now I know that there have been a lot of discussions on the best way to loosen up rusted bolts an such by using all sorts of penetrating oils and even electrolysis.
By far though, my favorite way to loosen rusted bolts is with a ' hot wrench '.
Granted, a hot wrench may not always be available and it can even be dangerous to use it in some areas .... but if you can use it, then it is much more effective in loosing up rusted parts then anything else that I have tried.

From left to right .. here are the necessary tools to disassemble this tractor:
My hot wrench ( a acetylene torch ).
A special tool for removing the ball & socket type tie-rod ends.
Punches for removing cotter pins and drift pins.
A brass punch for putting pressure on things without damaging them.
An adjustable crescent wrench because these old square nuts and bolts aren't always a standard size.
A vice-grip to hold a nut or bolt that is rounded off or rusted really bad.
Pliers to pick up the hot items.
Regular hammer to persuade the stubborn items to move.
A bigger hammer to persuade the really stubborn ones.

DSC01091_zpsethvqtyh.jpg


Heating the rusted end up on one of the tie-rod ends.   

DSC01084_zpswybvzrdv.jpg


And using the special tool to unscrew the end cap.

DSC01085_zpsgtsipb0b.jpg


I had to cut the mounting brackets off with the torch to get the front axle off.
Here I'm using the brass punch to force the axle out of the wheel.

DSC01086_zpstnalt9ch.jpg


Whoever built this tractor has rotated the rear axle 90 degrees from the way it was original mounted.
By doing this, the cup on the grease fitting can't be removed because it is sitting right under the transmission.

DSC01087_zps8mypdmxh.jpg


After about two hours of work today, I have managed to remove these parts from the tractor.

DSC01088_zpskxkz1joh.jpg

DSC01089_zpsacdyksqu.jpg


Only the rear axle is left to remove from the frame.

DSC01090_zpsb4xls5h6.jpg


Once I get it off, then I'll need to work on getting this differential with its open spider and ring gears apart.

DSC01030_zpskoxz5u3g.jpg

DSC01025_zpshgzxiyfi.jpg


  • KennyP, Leonard VanCamp, 29 Chev and 2 others have said thanks

#11 KennyP OFFLINE  

KennyP

    FORDoholic

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2253
  • 48955 Thanks
  • 51659 posts
  • Location: Collinsville, Oklahoma

Posted September 22, 2019 - 05:35 PM

A 'hot wrench' is nice if you have one handy!


  • jdcrawler, Kster526 and AllisKidD21 have said thanks

#12 jdcrawler OFFLINE  

jdcrawler

    tinkerer

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1639
  • 5296 Thanks
  • 2112 posts
  • Location: Madison, Indiana

Posted September 23, 2019 - 02:46 PM

I managed to get the retaining pin to move in the rear axle.

DSC01092_zpstqpssxba.jpg


And was able to remove the spacing nut and the washers without any trouble.

This is not a threaded nut, it has three pin grooves machined into it and each one is at a different depth from the face of the nut.
You set the clearance for the ring and pinion gears and then rotate this spacer nut until one of the pin grooves lines up with the hole in the axle.
Then you put the pin in place to hold the wheel on.

DSC01093_zpsjjrp1qwo.jpg


This wheel has a grease cup on it and there was enough grease still inside the hub to keep it from rusting to the axle so it slid right off.

DSC01094_zpsdgywsxzl.jpg


I was glad to see that none of the teeth are cracked or broken on this half of the ring gears.

DSC01095_zps4spg5kwg.jpg


The sprocket does not have a grease fitting on it like the wheel and it took some time to get it worked loose.

DSC01096_zpsuaaofsha.jpg


Again, I'm glad to see that there are no broken teeth on this half of the ring gear too.
The axle turns freely in the housing so this is as far down as I'm going to go with this rear end.
I'm working with cast iron that is anywhere from 94 to 96 years old and it was most likely not a high grade cast iron to start with, not like you will find in more expensive tractors and in cars.
I consider myself extremely lucky that I haven't already cracked or broken anything with all of the heating and hammering that I've been doing on it.

DSC01097_zpsd40ary8i.jpg


I clamped the sprocket up in the vice to work on getting the pinion gears loose.

DSC01098_zpsknohdvbw.jpg


The pin that holds them in place is put into a blind hole so I can't get to the other end of the pin to use a punch to get them out.
I have gotten the gears to rotate but the pins are rusted into the gears so it is the pins that are rotating in the housing and not the gears rotating on the pins.

I have decided to leave them this way.
These pinion gears only rotate when the tractor is making a turn and the inside wheel needs to go a little slower then the outside wheel.
The pinion gears themselves don't rotate very much at all to allow the tractor to make the turn and with this tractor just being taken to tractor shows, these gear pins will never wear the holes out in the casting.

DSC01099_zpsav4zzexq.jpg


I was also glad to see that the cap came off the grease cup on the axle housing without any problem.

DSC01100_zps80pg2jkb.jpg


  • olcowhand, KennyP, Leonard VanCamp and 4 others have said thanks

#13 Dcarr OFFLINE  

Dcarr
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 95176
  • 428 Thanks
  • 230 posts
  • Location: Arizona

Posted September 23, 2019 - 03:11 PM

Nice work ! Yes , a little patience and forethought can prevent a huge problem with cast iron . Nice to see old iron coming back to life - even for show .


  • jdcrawler, KennyP and Kster526 have said thanks

#14 jdcrawler OFFLINE  

jdcrawler

    tinkerer

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1639
  • 5296 Thanks
  • 2112 posts
  • Location: Madison, Indiana

Posted September 24, 2019 - 10:44 AM

I removed the rear axle from the frame this morning.

This is the position it will be mounted in on the frame when I rebuild this tractor.
The mounting brackets will bolt to the underside of the frame and the frame rail will have slots milled into it so the axle can be slid forward or backward to adjust the tension on the drive chain.

The the end was broken on the right mounting bracket so it will have to be welded back on.

DSC01101_zpsvusk7e72.jpg


The brackets for the draw-bar hitch were removed along with the two ball brackets for the radius arms from the front axle.

DSC01102_zpsinkgvrth.jpg


This is what is left of the frame and it will be going to the scrap yard.
I'm going to build a new frame using the same U-channel that I built the frame out of for the R/T tractor.

DSC01103_zpsk51yag6w.jpg


Edited by jdcrawler, September 24, 2019 - 10:44 AM.

  • olcowhand, KennyP and Kster526 have said thanks

#15 olcowhand OFFLINE  

olcowhand

    Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Sponsor
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 20
  • 44084 Thanks
  • 32300 posts
  • Location: South Central Kentucky

Posted September 24, 2019 - 12:35 PM

Yes, that frame channel looks like war time Swiss cheese!  The pinion pins could be accessed by drilling through the hub, then driven out, but as you know, that would weaken the center, and not worth the risk.  Like you said, the pins working in the cast will last a few lifetimes of going to shows and the like.


  • jdcrawler and Kster526 have said thanks




Top