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My new 1969 140 H1


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#16 Mudrig150 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 13, 2019 - 08:27 AM

After struggling for a while I managed to get the H1 valve out. Luckily I've learned that if the line is turning with the nut it's usually stuck to the valve fitting, not the nut.
I need to partially disassemble the H2 valve to get the 90 degree fitting in, so I can put it in with only slight extra bending on the stock lines needed. The hole I need to drill should be easy, I just need to find a drill bit to fit and drill everything out.

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#17 Mudrig150 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 17, 2019 - 08:54 AM

H2 is almost done, just have to tighten up the lines.

 

We went and picked up a bunch of parts, fenders, a frame, and a 43 blade.



#18 Mudrig150 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 18, 2019 - 12:33 PM

Almost ready to run. Got oil and hydro fluid in the tractor, I got the hydraulic lines all tightened up and a temporary steering box in. Just need to find my solenoid and get the fuel tank in.

I do still need a real -30000 steering box.



#19 Mudrig150 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 23, 2019 - 08:04 AM

So I got it all together. I fixed the steering column (forgot the top steering box bearing) I got my H2 handles in, and I got everything it needs to run.

It has no spark.

After looking into it, I think the Battery and coil wires are swapped. Would this cause me to get a flash of power at the coil and does anybody have a wiring diagram for the key switch?



#20 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted September 23, 2019 - 08:12 AM

Maybe this?

Attached File  140_SN_30_001_1973Wirediagram.pdf   177.21KB   30 downloads

 



#21 Mudrig150 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 23, 2019 - 10:10 AM

Is that diagram backwards? I've seen a lot of diagrams with the Battery and Ignition terminal on the key switch swapped. It's not helping for this. Even worse is that the actual key switch is completely unlabeled. It's all a big help...



#22 Mudrig150 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 26, 2019 - 10:04 AM

Redid some of my wiring and swapped my coil, I then had spark across the points, albeit very sloppy and orange, and turned out my points set themselves to .032. Adjusted them and now the spark is nice and strong, and jumps across the points and not outward.
 
I put the coil wire to a separate switch and put direct power to the coil, and after realizing I forgot to put the points wire on, and after putting the wire on, I have good spark now.
 
Put gas in the tractor and after turning the tractor over a bit I have a tiny line of fuel across the cylinder. Guessing carb issue, but it could also be something that has to do with it being a K321 carb, so I'll sort that out.
 
Gotta fix the axle seal and get fluid in the transmission before getting this tractor running.
 
Ironic, really. The 140 we got running with a motor, is now sitting without one, the 140 that had a motor and didn't run still doesn't run, and the 140 that had no motor when we got it is almost ready to run.


#23 Mudrig150 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 30, 2019 - 08:00 AM

Fenders off, old seat swapped, adjustable seat parts lubed. I was tired of the old seat swallowing bolts and tools into the upholstery.


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#24 Mudrig150 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 01, 2019 - 08:16 AM

Should I pull the trigger on this? Matches the bent up front and even has green overspray on it.

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#25 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted October 01, 2019 - 08:44 AM

If it fits and isn't too expensive, I would.



#26 Mudrig150 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 01, 2019 - 09:11 AM

If it fits and isn't too expensive, I would.

It's off a 69.

I think it's about 39$. If I do buy it, I don't think I'll enough left to buy the ATF I need to fill the transmission.


Edited by Mudrig150, October 01, 2019 - 09:16 AM.

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#27 Mudrig150 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 28, 2019 - 06:20 AM

Forgot to post this when I got the grille, but here's Larry with his grille.

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Got my axle seal in. Also found out why the brakes on my 210 didn't work, lol. On the left is the old brake disc, right is a new one. Notice something...missing?
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Pulled the brakes off, and found out that the bolt for the brake adjustment was falling out, which is why my brakes don't work. Checked out patio 140 and the rotor is so worn that, even when the nuts are on the bolt shoulder, the pads don't touch when the brakes are locked. Now I should have turning brakes, but the pedals are locked together.
Any tricks for separating them?
 
Surprised when I pulled the axle apart and found there were two seals, previous owner literally just put a second seal in front of the first one when the old one started leaking. Only problem is that they put the the new seal in backward. When it started leaking, they covered literally everything in orange RTV and called it a day. It still leaked, so they just gave up.
Also found my keyway has a small chunk out of it from when they tried knocking the key out with a hammer. It's also missing the felt washer on the outside dirt shield.
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I ATF on the outside and rubber part of the seal, put it in rubber side in, and lightly tapped it in. Did I do it right?
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So excited, Larry, who's been sitting for over 2 decades is finally going to run, just need to drill out the screws in the brand new Carter 26 carb I have, and get it on the K241!
 

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#28 Mudrig150 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 29, 2019 - 06:25 AM

Took the air cleaner off, and of course, the carb decided to start pouring out fuel. Ended up getting it off, but not before making a mess. Tried to take the muffler elbow off, it's been soaking for almost a month and it had heat, but it broke off with the slightest force. Ended up chiselling it out of the block.
Got the motor back out. Checked inside the motor, and it turns out I definitely have stuck rings. There's a ton of compression leaking into the crankcase. Hopefully there's enough to get it to run.
Took the shrouds off to clean them out. A nice shower of rust poured from the flywheel shroud. Also, there was a huge mouse nest packed into the space behind the coil shroud. Pulled that out, and ended up going home for the day.'
Ended up taking the tire off the back and setting the tractor down on a block with some paper towels on it. Now to test if my axle seal is still leaking.

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#29 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted October 29, 2019 - 07:16 AM

Marvel Mystery Oil may loosen those rings. Dextron ATF will do it too sometimes. Put about an ounce per gallon of gas and the same in the crankcase. If you get it running, the heat and cool cycles can let the rings come loose again.



#30 Mudrig150 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 29, 2019 - 08:10 AM

Marvel Mystery Oil may loosen those rings. Dextron ATF will do it too sometimes. Put about an ounce per gallon of gas and the same in the crankcase. If you get it running, the heat and cool cycles can let the rings come loose again.

Hm... Looks like running the crap out of it will work, too. I'll add some Mystery Oil and diesel into the cylinder, then let it sit for a while, maybe a week or so. Should help.

There's a nice fine layer of oil sludge all on the inside of this engine. Probably what happens when you never change the oil for over 42 years. The oil I drained out was...awful. Luckily this thing wouldn't run for more then 30 seconds, and the guy gave up after 1 attempt trying to start it. Only ran 9 times its whole life...defective carb caused it to run like crap so all of its owners just sold it off. Apparently the previous owner actually took it to a mechanic who said it had valve issues. Nope, just carb problems.






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