But first try it .
Edited by skyrydr2, August 07, 2017 - 06:41 PM.
Posted August 07, 2017 - 06:29 PM
Edited by skyrydr2, August 07, 2017 - 06:41 PM.
Posted August 07, 2017 - 07:07 PM
If it is straining and having fits when trying to reverse direction it is most likely internal. Fire it up with the pan off and try it to see whats going on? If you hear whining or a chatter like sound with out anything noticably obvious... DOH.... IT broke inside..
But first try it .
I'm going to fix cracked frame and bolt it back in tight , then hook up an aux gas tank and try it. .( gas tank is under seat pan and came off with pan)
Posted August 14, 2017 - 04:53 PM
Posted August 14, 2017 - 06:28 PM
Posted August 15, 2017 - 03:56 AM
Posted August 15, 2017 - 04:10 AM
It could use either, personally I would try to use a brass one if at all possible.
Does yours have the rag joints or something different? I cant remember what the 195s had on that shaft?
According to the parts manual, they used the same joints as the 165 and down.
Posted August 15, 2017 - 03:40 PM
Yes rag joints at both ends. If I use the brass bushing I will have to get the shaft turned down. Obviously if I don't use it I can just weld the rag joint flanges to the shaft and be done. On the 165 donor frame i have it had the brass at the engine and steel at the hydro. I can't do that so I had it at the hydro on the last one. Obviously the brass will be a sacrificial piece as to not have steel to steel wear if the rag joints get worn. The set ( rag joints) out of the donor appear to be in very good shape and are going to replace the homemade one the PO had in the tractor which was made sloppy. Both ends are pretty shot now due to the rear issue.
Posted August 27, 2017 - 05:21 PM
Posted September 03, 2017 - 05:03 AM
Posted September 03, 2017 - 05:41 AM
So how does it go with that new driveshaft, that came out nice.
Hopefully it gets welded up this weekend. Stay tuned!
Posted September 04, 2017 - 04:29 PM
IT'S ALIVE !!
finished the driveshaft today. Painted it , let it dry then put it in. fired it up before I put the fender pan on and it was smooth. Realized when it died that I need the fender pan for the gas tank but it ran long enough to see it spin straight . All back together and took a drive, never moved so nice. Tighter than it's ever been. Need to adjust the foot control a bit, it creeps now. I'm very pleased. waiting on a new hydro filter so I can change the fluid and then it's back to work. Can't wait to see how good it does now that it's tight. I did not paint it like I planned. I am picking up a parts tractor from Dave AKA- wnytinkerer and want to see the shape of those parts first.
I did add a little length to the shaft ends where they go into the couplers. the stock setup only went tin about 1/4" after you put the rag joints on. I went to 7/16", about an 1/8" shy of bottoming out. but figured it would give more contact/ alignment.
Posted September 05, 2017 - 07:01 PM
Good to here that it worked out for you. We have to keep these old Fords going!
Posted November 18, 2017 - 01:37 AM
Update. Rear has been bolted back in! Driveshaft ends have been cut off old shaft and ready to be welded on the new one. The issue with bronze bushing is also solved. The rear coupler already has a bushing in it. Here's a couple pics.
IMG_2837.JPG
IMG_2838.JPG
So I can simply cut both couplers off the old driveshaft and weld them onto my new driveshaft and not have to worry about the bronze busing because the rear couple that is attached to the shaft of the hydro unit already has a bronze bushing in it?
Posted November 18, 2017 - 01:31 PM
So I can simply cut both couplers off the old driveshaft and weld them onto my new driveshaft and not have to worry about the bronze busing because the rear couple that is attached to the shaft of the hydro unit already has a bronze bushing in it?
Posted November 20, 2017 - 02:02 AM
Thanks for the information. I'm sure I could probably find a brass bushing at McMaster-Carr when I put my next order in.