29 replies to this topic

[skyrydr2]

If it is straining and having fits when trying to reverse direction it is most likely internal. Fire it up with the pan off and try it to see whats going on? If you hear whining or a chatter like sound with out anything noticably obvious... DOH.... IT broke inside..
But first try it .

Edited by skyrydr2, August 07, 2017 - 06:41 PM.

[TomLGT195]

If it is straining and having fits when trying to reverse direction it is most likely internal. Fire it up with the pan off and try it to see whats going on? If you hear whining or a chatter like sound with out anything noticably obvious... DOH.... IT broke inside..
But first try it .

I'm going to fix cracked frame and bolt it back in tight , then hook up an aux gas tank and try it. .( gas tank is under seat pan and came off with pan)

[skyrydr2]

Tommy you get your beast fixed yet? I just spent 20 gours of really rough seat time on mine... pushed over 200 yards of boney fill in the back yard.. and dont need any more tractor seat time let me tell you!

[TomLGT195]

Bought the new driveshaft material, getting ready to make the new one.
Question, does the shaft end that goes into coupler at the rear need the bronze bushing or can it be straight steel? The front is steel due to size required to fit the pulley for the loader pump. Can I have steel at both ends?
On the rear end, Looks like the bolt was missing out of top bracket on one side and bracket broke the frame on the other. Been tinkering while get other things fixed around the yard. By next week I should be back at it with more time.

[skyrydr2]

It could use either, personally I would try to use a brass one if at all possible.
Does yours have the rag joints or something different? I cant remember what the 195s had on that shaft?

[KennyP]

It could use either, personally I would try to use a brass one if at all possible.
Does yours have the rag joints or something different? I cant remember what the 195s had on that shaft?

According to the parts manual, they used the same joints as the 165 and down.

[TomLGT195]

Yes rag joints at both ends.  If I use the brass bushing I will have to get the shaft turned down. Obviously if I don't use it I can just weld the rag joint flanges to the shaft and be done. On the 165 donor frame i have it had the brass at the engine and steel at the hydro. I can't do that so I had it at the hydro on the last one. Obviously the brass will be a sacrificial piece as to not have steel to steel wear if the rag joints get worn. The set ( rag joints) out of the donor appear to be in very good shape and are going to replace the homemade one the PO had in the tractor which was made sloppy. Both ends are pretty shot now due to the rear issue.

[TomLGT195]

Update. Rear has been bolted back in! Driveshaft ends have been cut off old shaft and ready to be welded on the new one. The issue with bronze bushing is also solved. The rear coupler already has a bushing in it. Here's a couple pics.

[skyrydr2]

So how does it go with that new driveshaft, that came out nice.

[TomLGT195]

So how does it go with that new driveshaft, that came out nice.

Hopefully it gets welded up this weekend. Stay tuned!

[TomLGT195]

IT'S ALIVE !!         finished the driveshaft today. Painted it , let it dry then put it in. fired it up before I put the fender pan on and it was smooth. Realized when it died that I need the fender pan for the gas tank but it ran long enough to see it spin straight . All back together and took a drive, never moved so nice. Tighter than it's ever been.  Need to adjust the foot control a bit, it creeps now.  I'm very pleased. waiting on a new hydro filter so I can change the fluid and then it's back to work. Can't wait to see how good it does now that it's tight. I did not paint it like I planned. I am picking up a parts tractor from Dave AKA- wnytinkerer and want to see the shape of those parts first.  

 

 I did add a little length to the shaft ends where they go into the couplers. the stock setup only went tin about 1/4" after you put the rag joints on. I went to 7/16", about an 1/8" shy of bottoming out. but figured it would give more contact/ alignment.

[pryan05]

Good to here that it worked out for you.  We have to keep these old Fords going!

[jpswift1]

Update. Rear has been bolted back in! Driveshaft ends have been cut off old shaft and ready to be welded on the new one. The issue with bronze bushing is also solved. The rear coupler already has a bushing in it. Here's a couple pics.
IMG_2837.JPGIMG_2838.JPG

 

So I can simply cut both couplers off the old driveshaft and weld them onto my new driveshaft and not have to worry about the bronze busing because the rear couple that is attached to the shaft of the hydro unit already has a bronze bushing in it?

[TomLGT195]

So I can simply cut both couplers off the old driveshaft and weld them onto my new driveshaft and not have to worry about the bronze busing because the rear couple that is attached to the shaft of the hydro unit already has a bronze bushing in it?

Yes, my coupler at the hydro had the bronze bushing in it. At the front I have a modified coupler to accept the pulley that runs my loader pump. I do have a steel bushing up there. Heavily greased with anti-seize. So I was able to leave the driveshaft alone at 3/4" at both ends. The stock front coupler would require a bronze bushing. But I think you could go with just one at the rear. Just make sure your rag joints are in great shape reducing the wobble between shaft and couplers.

[jpswift1]

Thanks for the information.  I'm sure I could probably find a brass bushing at McMaster-Carr when I put my next order in.