
HH120 Charging question
#16
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Posted May 07, 2011 - 05:56 AM
#17
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Posted May 07, 2011 - 06:23 AM
K D Hand Tools Danaher Group KDT 2423 - Current Indicator
- MH81, caseguy and middleageddeere have said thanks
#18
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Posted May 07, 2011 - 06:37 AM
Would be handy just to have to verify current flow direction or even if your amp meter is working.
Edited by MH81, May 07, 2011 - 06:46 AM.
#19
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Posted May 07, 2011 - 06:46 AM
Me too !!! But you might see that if the starter is shorted or engine locked up . Then you would know it wasn't the battery !!Neat little piece. The scale is a bit bigger than I need, if my battery is pulling 600amps, I'm running!
#20
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Posted May 07, 2011 - 07:19 AM
#21
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Posted May 07, 2011 - 11:41 AM
#22
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Posted May 07, 2011 - 03:33 PM
#23
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Posted May 07, 2011 - 04:56 PM
I guess it's like my wife says when anyone asks her if their is any money in breeding dogs. She replies "YAH MINE"
#24
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Posted May 07, 2011 - 05:00 PM
A fully charged 12volt battery at rest for at least 1 hr will show 12.6 to 12.7 volts.
That 625cca battery is probably 2x the ratting of the one that came with the tractor.
The charging circuit in the Massey MF12 is only about 15 amps, it takes a long time, hrs, to charge up a battery of your size that is 1/2 or more discharged.
A load tester used would be the best at determining whether the battery is good, needs to be tested on a fully charged battery.
Voltage readings taken at the battery terminals is a reliable way to check if it is charging when running, you need to see a rise in voltage from idle to full speed.
The closer the battery is to full charge the higher the reading will be at full speed.
If reading is more than 14.7 regulator n/g
If there is no change in reading from idle to full speed drain down battery (turn on lights) and then test again.
- KIRO-1 said thank you
#25
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Posted May 07, 2011 - 05:28 PM
#26
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Posted May 07, 2011 - 06:51 PM
Just wanted at add to what was already said. As a quick check on pretty much anything that charges , car , truck , GT, ect. I'll start by checking the voltage before starting , should be around 12.5 v , if the battery is good it shouldn't drop below 9.5 v when cranking , as soon as it starting the voltage should rise above 13.5v at high idle . If it's not then the battery really isn't going to charge . I'll turn on everything to load up the alt. , headlights, PTO , ( on vehicles 4 ways a/c ) and see if the alt will keep up the voltage . If the battery is old or bad you might not see 13.5 v at idle until a long time running. On one of my cars that I don't use often is going to need a new battery it cranks slow and when it starts you can hear the alt trying to charge the battery , like a winning noise .The dash gauge is on the low side until you run it for a while . The alt is full load which isn't good for it. Here's a cheap handy tool , it's an inductive amp meter you can lay it across the battery wire and check how many amps it charging and also checks how much draw when starting.
K D Hand Tools Danaher Group KDT 2423 - Current Indicator
That sure would be a handy little tool to have around when you need to do any DC troubleshooting. I wonder how it works.
#27
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Posted May 07, 2011 - 07:38 PM
Trickle charged it for 2 days. Battery shows 12.7 across the terminals. Pretty sure I missed something. It's the way my last couple of day's have been going. Started out with the Red Sox getting creamed last night 9-2 then wake up this morning to the fridge on the fritz. Evaporator Fan motor gone. Nobody local has it in stock. Had to order it and pay for overnite shipping, still it will not be here until noon Tuesday. I will tackle it again in the morning.
Maybe something draining it down when it sits??? Next time you go to it check battery volts again should be the same, 12.7
#28
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Posted May 07, 2011 - 07:57 PM
Also, even after making the hydro adjustment. brake adjustment and readjusting the transmission shift rod, when I depress the clutch brake wheels stop but the hydro lever doesn't return to the neutral position.. It returns to about 1/2 way into the forward position. Is there any way to adjust the cam for the clutch brake? (Not the Hydro Cam)
#29
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Posted May 07, 2011 - 08:09 PM
Will do Doug. That was part of the reason for my electrical exploration today. Tomorrow after chores I will sit down and go through it all again with the wiring diagram in front of me.
Also, even after making the hydro adjustment. brake adjustment and readjusting the transmission shift rod, when I depress the clutch brake wheels stop but the hydro lever doesn't return to the neutral position.. It returns to about 1/2 way into the forward position. Is there any way to adjust the cam for the clutch brake? (Not the Hydro Cam)
I've had 3 MF12h and never had to adjust the neutral return on them, I don't know if you can or not, maybe something bent or out of wack???
Let me know what you find on yours, be interesting to know.
#30
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Posted May 07, 2011 - 09:05 PM
Oh well, one thing at a time. Gotta make her run again. Will keep you posted. To all who have come to my aid, Thanks for all your assistance and your patience.