95 replies to this topic

[MFDAC]

Hopefully this weekend will be productive, my wife is out of town and I don't have any overtime at work scheduled until the next 3 weekends. Got some other chores to do though.

 

Tonight I tore into the electrical a bit and not real sure how to approach it yet. Yesterday I bead blasted the manifolds during lunch at work and painted them tonight. I used that Eastwood high-temp exhaust manifold coating that looks like clean cast iron. Had a little left over from another project but it's way past the shelf life. We'll see how it holds up!

 

DAC

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[MFDAC]

I worked on the final cable mounting this afternoon and came up with an arrangement that I think will work.

 

The throttle cable was pretty straight forward using the clamps already supplied on the new engine. I shortened the stock cable a few inches, and it seems to work nicely although the throw on the dash is a little shorter than before.

 

Drilling the choke lever to hook the cable like DH1 did on one of his conversions will work here too, but I had to come up with a way for that cable to have some downward pressure on the lever but still "float" back and forth slightly so it could move with the angle change. That's what the eye bolt and bracket is doing. It also needed to be pressed down some to not interfere with the governor linkage. Kind of crude but the simplicity works for me! I didn't want to drill brackets into the blower housing and risk damaging any of the internals. I only had to shorten this cable about an inch. I also took the unused cable clamps off the alternate throttle cable mounts on the new engine and re-used them in different locations on this choke cable mounting.

 

I pulled the lever and cable assemblies out of the tractor and took the wires out of the housings and gave them both a good cleaning too!

 

If any of you see something I'm doing wrong or could be better please don't be afraid to bring it up!

 

DAC

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Edited by MFDAC, October 31, 2015 - 09:45 PM.

[DH1]

Looks great and should work good, that little short spring that's on the throttle control arm is not needed, I don't think it makes any difference if it's there or not.

The screw that sets the high speed position on mine moves, vibrates and changes the high RPM setting, thread locker was the answer for me.

[KennyP]

Looks pretty good to me! Is that choke lever plastic?

[MFDAC]

Looks great and should work good, that little short spring that's on the throttle control arm is not needed, I don't think it makes any difference if it's there or not.

The screw that sets the high speed position on mine moves, vibrates and changes the high RPM setting, thread locker was the answer for me.

Thanks, Doug! That's good to know in advance about that high speed screw! I may just pull that spring off too.

 

Looks pretty good to me! Is that choke lever plastic?

Thank-you too Kenny---yeah it's plastic, and it just drops onto a shaft on the carb. It was originally held down by the plastic air cleaner assembly that was removed which made me use that eyebolt deal to apply a little downward pressure to the cable to keep it from working it's way up. I think a plan may have come to me to build a metal one if need be down the road.

 

The engine is bolted down on the frame now and belts lined up better than I expected! A longer deck drive belt may not be needed as the old one looks like it will operate well. I cut the pto shaft adapter sleeve and modified the key like Casey suggested earlier in this thread. The pulley pushed on and tightened down just fine.

 

DAC

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Edited by MFDAC, November 01, 2015 - 08:48 PM.

[Cvans]

Everything is so nice and shiny that I almost have to put sun glasses on to look at the photos. 

Looks like it is coming along very nicely. 

[FirefyterEmt]

I love the solution to the air cleaner! I have to remember that one for myself!

[MFDAC]

Everything is so nice and shiny that I almost have to put sun glasses on to look at the photos. 

Looks like it is coming along very nicely. 

Yeah the NEW parts anyway--LOL! I feel a bit guilty about not detailing all the 40 year old stuff too but I just try to keep in perspective what my budget, timeframe and purpose allows. Still eats at me though!

 

I love the solution to the air cleaner! I have to remember that one for myself!

Thanks, it looks like your 12G is beautiful and useful too!

 

A little more progress this afternoon, with the wiring alteration done, and test fitting the hood and grill again with everything pretty much in place. Then I worked up the guts to hook the daughters jump start box to it. The engine bumped over nicely! I didn't crank it yet, no oil in it.

 

I need to take care of some play on the implement drive pedal as the pulley bolt hits the vari-drive belt a little bit. Not sure how I may deal with that yet and it may have been doing it with the original setup. Then a brake and vari drive adjustment is needed as the brake never did grab good when the vari drive was in "park" and now there's no telling if any of that is even close, but I think things are within a reasonable range with this engine.

 

Back to work tomorrow so progress won't be reported as frequently for awhile.

 

DAC

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Edited by MFDAC, November 02, 2015 - 10:50 PM.

[MFDAC]

Got a little bit done last night and tonight. The engine mounted vari-drive belt guard/friction device was the right position and same bolt pattern as a couple of holes on the new engine, but I had to shorten the "legs" about 3/8". Then I put a little upward bend in the rearward part that is tucked under the running board out of sight. That gave another 1/4" of belt clearance. The starter hit the guard so I cut about 1/2" out following the stock angle. That's the angled part beside the starter.

 

The running board only needed a 1/4" spacer at the bolt closest to the vari-drive lever. All the rest of the bolt holes line up great and the implement drive latch hits the slot just fine too!

 

DAC

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[MFDAC]

Here's another update and a question for you MF experts also. This afternoon I got oil in it and it holds exactly one quart. Then I mounted the gas tank and battery then hooked the fuel line and cables up. The lower dash panel (where the hood lever is) was removed to see about doing the vari-drive adjustments when I get it started, hopefully tomorrow.

 

I removed the hitch ball and the front mower deck mount to be ready to try the blade when the time comes. I noticed that the arms on the deck bracket look like they may be bent. My question is are they supposed to be straight?

 

DAC

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[DH1]

I don't know, I have never seen a 10 or 12 with that newer style of front mower mount on one.

[Cvans]

Seeing as the bends do not seem symmetrical I would guess they were originally straight.

[limebuzz]

Yes,those 2 straps are ment to be straigh.One of my 12's had this deck mount.

[MFDAC]

Seeing as the bends do not seem symmetrical I would guess they were originally straight.

That what made me wonder about them too, Chris. I don't know if I could have bent them or they were already that way when I got the tractor.

 

Yes,those 2 straps are ment to be straigh.One of my 12's had this deck mount.

Thanks, limebuzz, I will straighten them before they get used again!

 

I got it running then vari-drive and brake adjusted this afternoon. Drove it around the yard and it sure seems nice! It was running rich and I thought maybe the higher altitude jet I put in it may be the problem then it dawned on me that is a leaner jet. I pulled the bowl off anyway and it looks to me that the float is set WAY too high. I never checked that when I put in the jet.

 

I have to go in the house so i'll pull the carb tomorrow night and see what's up with that.

 

DAC

[DH1]

Glad you got to drive it, you say it's running rich ??? choke working, fully opening, air filter OK ???