57 replies to this topic

[KennyP]

I have been using the FF and box blade for a few things around here. But it is a challenge. Here's the pics of it mounted:

   

 

As you can see, it is a bit narrow (40") and awful close to the rear tires. Plans are to widen it a foot, extend the front/rear depth 4", and make it set further back (4"?). Also, it will be a dual hitch, both 3-point and sleeve. More teeth will be added, has 5 now. Also, I plan to use some heavier steel for the front cross piece and maybe something across the rear top to add weight to it. Just to light to work good. This will be in the near future, but maybe a week or so out.

Looking for any ideas/hints to make it work well with the potential of the FF. The guy across the street has a Cat 1 BB, so I plan to scope it out for the 3-point hitch part.

Thanks to whiplash injuries, I cannot turn my neck well enough to see what is going on with it so close.

Anyway, give me ideas guys!

[IamSherwood]

For starters, get some mirrors. Save the neck.

As you said, it sure looks like it needs to be wider, and farther back.

A couple of good sized chunks of 8" channel should look after the issue

of getting it farther back.

 

Oh, nice to see you again. Hope the move went well.

[HDWildBill]

The first thing I noticed was how close it is to the tractor, I agree it needs to be moved back some.  One thing I did to mine is I put two flat bars on each side of mine running fore and aft.  I put a bolt sticking up in the middle of each bar and I stack weights (I picked up at a yard sale) on there so I can vary the weight I need according to what I'm doing.   Good luck with it Kenny, I'll be looking forward to the finished product.

[KennyP]

The move went well, Will! Remember, I plan to make this a dual hitch type. About all of this I will reuse is the rear piece and sides.

Bill, That is 75 lbs of RR iron on it now. Still too light to cut through grass roots. The blade is light enough that I can carry it for a ways. I hope to add at least 30-40 lbs to it just in steel. Then maybe be able to add more weight as needed.

[IamSherwood]

 I plan to make this a dual hitch type. About all of this I will reuse is the rear piece and sides.

 

 

 

Cool. I see a great build thread coming up.

I hope I can find the time during my busy season now, to be part of it,

I always enjoy your builds Kenny. You let us guys, absorb what you're up

to, and get up to speed, before you move on to the next step.

Looking forward to another masterpiece....

[CADplans]

Resolve everything at once. Mount it on the front! Heck, if I can get a Gravely blade on the front of a Cub Cadet, you can get that on the front of your tractor.

 

 

No neck turning, the box blade will add to the traction, rather than take it away when you push the blade down.

 

 Win, Win!!

[KennyP]

Resolve everything at once. Mount it on the front! Heck, if I can get a Gravely blade on the front of a Cub Cadet, you can get that on the front of your tractor.

 

 

No neck turning, the box blade will add to the traction, rather than take it away when you push the blade down.

 

 Win, Win!!

Check out the blade that came with it: http://gardentractor...26-ff-20-blade/

That's a Gravely blade, too!

[JDBrian]

Kenny, I'd say you need to move it back more than 4". The Brinly I have is maybe 12-15" back from the sleeve pin to the front of the box.

[boyscout862]

You may have to use one or two teeth at a time. Even a D8 CAT usually only has one ripper tooth for tough ground. Too big of an attachment is going to be hard on your transaxle bearings. Take care of your neck with a warm pack and best of luck to you. Rick

 

For a smooth finish make your skids longer.

Edited by boyscout862, June 21, 2013 - 07:22 PM.

[KennyP]

You may have to use one or two teeth at a time. Even a D8 CAT usually only has one ripper tooth for tough ground. Too big of an attachment is going to be hard on your transaxle bearings. Take care of your neck with a warm pack and best of luck to you. Rick

 

For a smooth finish make your skids longer.

I had all 5 teeth down ripping up some well packed gravel. Not an issue with the FF! The teeth were digging in about 3-4" in the gravel!

[skyrydr2]

OK I happen to own and operate a box blade. You need toget that thing behind you so it can actually do something.
It needs to be adjustable with the top link so you can pitch it to dig or grade. Tipping it forward ( shorting the top link) should allow for grading and digging tippinf it back. My rear blade works awsome with a "toping" cylinder for the top link. For the bigger tractors they call this a "top&tilt kit" and add a second cylinder to the tilt link . it works AWSOME!!!
Copy the neighbors box blade as close as possible as they work great.

[MH81]

Can one of you guys tell me how far below the back blade the teeth stick (if the main beam is level, I can figure the tilt of the top link from there)

Thanks

[KennyP]

Can one of you guys tell me how far below the back blade the teeth stick (if the main beam is level, I can figure the tilt of the top link from there)

Thanks

My teeth go down 3-4" below on a sleeve hitch, Alan.

[MH81]

Opted to go with an inch. I will drill some other holes for flexibility, but the stuff I was digging thru was 3 years hard packed.

[KennyP]

As with all good plans, work has gotten in the way of reworking this. But that's money for more steel if needed. Looked at the neighbors Cat 1. Got some ideas from it. I see another neighbor has a Cat 3 BB sitting, so may mosey over and see what I can gleam from it. Just thought I would let you all know whats going on!