11 replies to this topic

[tinner]

The top link on my Snapper 1650A was frozen up. I tried to break it loose, then I soaked it for several days and got a bigger cheater and tried again it broke.................

I bought a new Cat 0 top link at TSC but ran into a problem with the factory bracket......too short.

I had some 2"x1" stock I picked up at the local scrap yard for 25 cents a pound so I took it to the sheet metal shop I used to work at and made a new one on the water blaster table.

Now to check the fit.

[ducky]

Great idea. I did the same on one of my Masseys and it woks great. Just cut a piece out the center and shortened the 2 ends and it is the same length.
Has your set up given you any issues?

[tinner]

Haven't had a chance to plow with it yet. I just got through making a three point adapter for my moldboard a friend gave me that has a Brinley hitch.

[SandburRanch]

In general, over the years I've found penetrating oils to be a waste of time. For items like your top link, an anvil and hammer often work to free the bond holding the threads. Some items that can't be taken to an anvil we take the anvil to it albeit it may be a sledge hammer used as a backer.

[olcowhand]

Heat it with acetylene and it would come loose easily. Apply heat to the body instead of the threaded shaft.

[SandburRanch]

Heat it with acetylene and it would come loose easily. Apply heat to the body instead of the threaded shaft.

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For those that have acetylene that often works but so many people don't know to apply torque before applying the heat. And if it moves but then stops moving, allow it to cool back to ambient temperature and then repeat step one.

[tinner]

I tried heating the to the turn buckle body, tried hitting and turning, and tried soaking it. The only thing I didn't try first was dynamite.

[olcowhand]

I tried heating the to the turn buckle body, tried hitting and turning, and tried soaking it. The only thing I didn't try first was dynamite.

When I say heating, I mean till a cherry red. Did you get it that hot? Another thing many swear by is candle wax. Heat the part with just a propane torch till good & warm/hot, then rub a simple candle around the threads. They claim it'll loosen the toughest threads. Never tried it myself though.

[tinner]

I'll have to try the wax next time I have something stuck. I used a map torch to heat it. It wasn't cherry red all over but close. All turned out well though. The good part was that I got to play on the water blaster table for the first time. Those things are really amazing. It'll cut 3" thick steel.

[mastifflawyer]

I am very envious of your water blaster fun. I would be making all sorts of cuts. I am always cutting things with my Plasma Cutter. Even if it could be sawed or wheel cut I use the Plasma.

As to your repair. Why didn't you weld the end of the link back onto the shaft?

As to Mapp gas-It will not get it hot enough. As Dan suggested it has to be cherry red. The use of a rosebud tip is a good idea. Or you could use a cutting torch, being very careful with the oxygen flow so as to not start cutting.

For loosening items I used PB Blaster for quite a while until I discovered Kroil Oil. It is marketed as Aerokroil or just Kroil oil. Check ebay for it. It comes in a can or spray. It seems expensive, but it goes a long way and works great. It sometimes takes a few days and applications, but I have not found anything it won't work on if you have patience.

[tinner]

The end of the top link wasn't the problem. The threads were frozen up so I couldn't adjust the length of the top link. The PO said he had never used the tractor with any implements so I guess it just hung there for who knows how many years getting all corroded up inside. I'm not throwing the original top link away, I plan on welding the end back on and trying some more to break it loose. But for now I have a simple fix and can use my plows on my garden. Think I'll try some of that Kroil Oil