13 replies to this topic

[DanP]

The Massey power lift that has caused me so much greif on the MF10 works but not very well. I don't think it will ever have the power to lift much of an implement on the 3 point. I would like to make a rear blade or get a plow for it but I am going to need more power to lift it. I am not very excited about tearing the tractor up to modify it but I have to do something if I want it to work right. It would have been easier to put hydraulics on it when I was building it and I still can, I have looked at those electric actuators and that would be the simplest to put on but I don't know if they are strong enough. I found some that will lift 500lbs or more but I don't know how to figure the lift requirements of the length of arms and all that stuff. What do you guys think?

[wvbuzzmaster]

Use an electric winch, Harbor Freight has their 2000 pound Badland winches on sale for $50 with a coupon, which I could email you (I scanned one), or you can search the internet to find a coupon. Coupons expire near the end of this month. Then all you need to do is add a larger automotive style 37 amp alternator (unless you have a starter/generator setup).

I can and will be happy to help you when you get to the alternator step, and winch lifting setup.

[DanP]

I would like to have something more hidden than that would be, but thanks it is an option.

[JDBrian]

Dan, you can get those actuators much stronger than 500 lbs. The stronger ones draw more current or they move slower at the same current. Heres a link for some rated up to 1200lbs. Johnny Products has a lot of interesting products for GT's. Linear Actuator Plus Hardware

[DanP]

I wish I had gone this route when I started I have way more that $240 in this unit alone plus 11.5 hours working on it.

[tweidman]

I have an electric actuator on my MF-12. I think it was rated at about 200 lbs, but the way it hooked into the system, it will lift way more than that. If you put something heavy enough on the sleeve hitch it will lift the front tires off the ground. The only drawl back for me, is the speed. When plowing I use it a lot to lift the front plow and it's not quite as quick as I would prefer.

[DanP]

Then I have a major problem with it as I can hold it from coming up with one hand. I am going to try one more thing before I abandon it. I found a starter motor that is the same size as it is and we are going to re-wire it to see if it will reverse. Then all I have to do is machine the shaft down to fit the housing and gear and see how it works. I hate it when something beats me and I am determined not to give up. But there is a saying from Mark Twain. "Try and try again, then give up there is no since being a damn fool about it".

[Cvans]

My Simplicity 7117 came with the electric lift and I have no problems with it at all. Slower than hydraulics? Yes. But you don't have to have the tractor running to operate the lift which is nice. Here is another source.
Surplus Center

[Toolpartzman]

Dan, whichever method you choose you're going have to work-out links/load/ etc mathematics. I'll be happy help and if I have total instead of the usual partial brain fade someone will pitch in. In fact, it may be of help if you start with your load/lift needs, then when they're worked out, it will make choosing between elect or hyd. easier.

[TUDOR]

Dan, I patterned a 3PH for my MF12H off of the 3PH on the MF1655 way back about 1977, when the 1655's were fresh on the market. The cylinder was 1.5 x 8 and used a GM P/S pump. The cylinder laid along the left side between the tire and frame with the wheels turned out.

It had no trouble lifting up the tongue on my 18' travel trailer or using down pressure to lift the rear of the tractor for changing the loaded tires.

A 1.5" x 8" cylinder will lift 250 lb 16" at 400 psi through a 6" bellcrank with no problem. The GM pump will top out at 1200 psi plus, but that's a good way to break axles............. or change the front tires.

A 2" x 4" cylinder will give you all the lift that you can safely use at a reasonable pressure. That's the size of the cylinder on the 1655 and it will pick up a 320 lb tiller at less than 700 psi using a much shorter bellcrank.

[HowardsMF155]

Hi Casey,
Could you post some pics of your winch setup? I'm like Dan, I'd rather have something hidden, but would like to see what a winch set up looks like.

Howard

Use an electric winch, Harbor Freight has their 2000 pound Badland winches on sale for $50 with a coupon, which I could email you (I scanned one), or you can search the internet to find a coupon. Coupons expire near the end of this month. Then all you need to do is add a larger automotive style 37 amp alternator (unless you have a starter/generator setup).

I can and will be happy to help you when you get to the alternator step, and winch lifting setup.

[DanP]

Has anyone used the actuator from Johnny Products or Surplus Center? One of them is $99.00 and the other $240. They look almost the same. The old saying "you get what you pay for" does not always work in today's market place.

[GTTinkerer]

I bought the $99 one from Surplus Center and mounted it to the sleeve hitch on the Craftsman 6000 I sold a few months ago. It worked very well for the Brinly plow and when the Brinly back blade was on would easily lift up the back of the tractor. I used a 15 amp double pole double throw switch from NAPA.

Bill

[DanP]

I ended up buying the actuator from Surplus Center and all I had to do was drill another hole in my mounting bracket about a 1/2 from the other hole and it fit perfectly. I wanted to use the original switch and it was single pole single throw so I had to build a set of relays to make it double pole double throw. It works great, just about the right speed and everything. I can now say I am completely do with the Massey 10. Now I can concentrate on the AC B10 made up of 10,000 pieces.