Everyone that has ever owned one of these tractors know how common of a problem it is for the seals around the axle tube to weep some oil or just flat out leak oil. Recently, on my Allis Big Ten I decided to tackle the job myself after some helpful information from some friends. Here's how to do it:
Disassembly and seal removal:
1) Take off both rear wheels and support the tractor by the trans case with a jack stand or other improvisations
2) Remove the left side hub by holding the bolts by the heads and loosening the nuts with a wrench then you can simply unloosen the bolts. After these are out the hub “should” just slide off. If your keyway is worn or anything like that you may need a puller to remove the hub. Luckily mine was fine and came right off.
3) Remove the set collar thats on the axle shaft by using a file to smooth out any sharp edges on the axle shaft where it may catch on like where the bolt tightened down to or a worn keyway and loosening the set screws in the collar. Then the collar slides right off. This concludes tearing apart the left side of the tractor at the moment.
Now onto the right side and quite frankly more complicated side but if done methodically not hard.
4) Remove the hub by removing the set collar by loosening the set screws then the hub should just slide off. If not loosen the two bolts/set screws that are on the hub that tighten up to the axle shaft. A puller might be needed if keyway is worn or anything on the axle it may catch on.
5) Once the hub is off pull off the “rubber ring” that is inside of the 8 bolts in the middle.
6) Loosen the 6 outer smaller bolts and remove them
7) Loosen the 8 larger bolts in the center and take the nuts off but leave the bolts in for now. Gently pull the cover off and keep track of washers.
8) Now what I did is I took the gears off and laid them in the cover how they came off because if you mess the order up and go to put it back together your differential won't work properly.
9) Once all that is off you are ok to remove the 8 bolts from the other half of the cover. Now you will notice a small gear and some washers on the axle shaft and in front of that will be a lock ring that you will want to remove. That is a real bugger to remove but persistence pays off and by using a combination of picks and snap ring pliers I got it off. (You may not have to remove the snap ring if you just pull the axle shaft out with the gear and washers still on it)
10) Now go over the axle once more to be sure that it is all deburred and it can be pulled out of the case via the right side
11) Now the “hub” that the diff case bolted to on the axle will come off with some taps of a hammer. Keep track of the two keys that go on. Once that is off there is a big snap ring that will need removed. This is even more of a challenge than the other one but is doable with persistence. There will be a grease fitting on the axle tube that also needs to be removed.
12) You can now clean up both sides of axle tube to smooth them out and once that is done we begin to remove the seals.
13) By drilling a small hole in the metal part of the seal and screwing a sheet metal screw and grabbing it with vise grips and prying and pulling the seal pops right out and slides off the axle tube. Repeat for the other side.
(Photo of most of the parts)
Installing new seals and reassembly:
14) Wrap a plastic around the axle tube or what worked for me was electrical tape which I then lubed vigorously as to not tear a seal when sliding over and lube seal as well. Easiest to use a piece of pipe the same diameter to install them into the case.
15) Once the new seals are in all you need to do is reassemble in reverse of how we tore it apart and being sure that everything is well lubed in the process.
I hope this helps give some of you guys the confidence to tackle this job yourself.
- Apr 21, 2017 03:42 PM
- by VintageIronCollector