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  1. Taking care of your Delco Remy Starter Generators

    Over the years many garden tractor manufactures used these Delco Remy starter generators & Regulators so I figured I would do a little write up on taking care of your Regulator and Starter to prolong its life and keep your machine running trouble free.

    There were two common types of starters. A "stubby" one and a longer starter which was most common. There were also different versions of bearings used. Some had all ball bearings and others had a bearing near the pully end and a bronze bushing on the other end.

    [attachment=141821:DSCN5905.JPG]
    Long starter w/ bushing above
    Approx 7'' end to end on the main base with slotted screw

    [attachment=141822:DSCN5906.JPG]
    Stubby version w/ dual ball bearing above
    Approx 6'' end to end on the main base with slotted screw
    Basic Operation:

    Starter/Generator- Pretty simple this is the unit that when activated by the solenoid turns your engine over to start once the engine is running the generator aids in keeping your battery fully charged.
    Basic components include Brushes,armature,field coils

    [attachment=141824:Untitled.png]

    Voltage Regulator- This regulates the amount of current/voltage that the starter/generator puts out.

    This is critical to ensure your battery does not overcharge or undercharge. The insides consist of windings,temperature strip & contact sets that are spring loaded (Almost like a points and condenser)

    When the starter is running the contacts repeatedly open and close in sequence depending on the voltage needed back to the battery
    These can be adjusted and serviced if overcharging is encountered(See the wisconsin repair manual for proper procedures, a few different styles were used)

    [attachment=141825:set.png]


    Do's and Donts:

    *Always use a good battery! Do not use a battery that is dead or jump start a dead battery. These Starter/Generators are designed as a maintainer charger only and are not meant to bring a dead battery back to life on a regular basis! Many people end up ruining their starters because of this!

    * It is normal for these to be hot to the touch , being a sealed unit these have an operating temperature of about 300 to 350 degrees!

    *Let the parts warm up before making a reading/Adjustment! The delco service manual states starter and regular need at least 15 minutes to get to operating temperature.

    * Check voltage output frequently especially on models without a ammeter, On a voltage meter you should get a reading between 12.2 to 13.9 volts MAX, anything over 14 volts on a constant basis leads to over charging and makes your generator run hotter making parts wear out faster.

    A simple cleaning and adjustment of your regulator can often correct many issues you may experience with charging.

    * Do not crank longer than 30 seconds at a time, this also will severely damage your starter over time.

    * If you have the bushing starter keep it oiled! These have a felt wick that was soaked in oil from the factory and when serviced by a shop.
    a few drops every now and then is fine do not over oil.

    *All extra accessories such as lighting must be attached to the "L" terminal of the regulator

    * Keep all contacts clean

    *Keep the battery clean

    For more detailed information on the principles of operation of the Regulators see this link below which is a 1 page sheet on the Basic Principles of Operation of the Delco Remy Regulators

    To help Identify what terminals are what here is a picture I found of a NOS regulator with instructions
    [attachment=141853:Voltage Reg Delco Bolens.JPG]

    Hopefully this helps clear things up. If you are uncomfortable doing the repairs yourself look for a local electrical shop they often can bench test both regular and starters to determine what is faulty if you are not sure.

    Delco Also does a decent job of stocking parts for these and most parts are readily available!

    • Jan 30, 2015 07:58 PM
    • by Bolens 1000
  2. Featured Tractor May 2014!

    I'm not sure just how customized a tractor should be for this months contest, but I would like to nominate my 1974 Case 444. I picked this tractor up a couple of months ago with the intentions of only getting it back into shape mechanically, and putting it to work in the garden. Well, you guys know how that goes! :bigrofl: The engine needed rebuilding, so I pulled it out first, and before I knew it the whole tractor was in pieces. While not the biggest HP wise of my GT's, it certainly is the biggest physically. The more I looked at it, the more I really wanted to make this look like a scaled version of a full size tractor. So here is the list of things done to try, and accomplish this.
    1. I started by picking up a set of 9.5-16 AG tires for the rear, which are between 4-5 inches taller than the 8-16 turf tires that came off of it.
    2. I raised the rear fenders an inch to give added clearance for the larger tires. This only required a minimal amount of cutting to the original sheet metal, and then the addition of some 1" square tubing as spacers. In the process of raising the fenders, it also made it where you sit further down between the fenders, which added to the big tractor feel.
    3. Added a set of 16x6.50-8 Firestone tri-ribs up front, and even thought they're supposedly the same size as OE, these tri-ribs stand a couple inches taller than any 16-6.50-8 I've ever seen, which complimented the larger rears very nicely.
    4. Of course I had to add an exhaust stack! :D
    5. I then started building a bracket to carry some suite case weights on the front. I started with the existing mule drive bracket, and after adding large amounts of 1/2" steel plate for strength, it weighed over 40lbs by itself. I then added 5 suite case weights that are made of 2" steel plate, and weigh 22lbs each. For a total of about 150lbs. This also helps my steering alot when the tiller, and plow are on the back.
    6. I then turned my attention to wheel weights as I wanted plenty of traction. Original wheel weights are crazy expensive for these Case GT's with the 16" wheels! :loosing_it:Not to mention they don't weigh as much as I would like them too, so I bought a weight bracket for these wheels that use dumbell type weights. I welded the brackets together before installing, as I wanted to make sure they were strong. I currently have 115lbs per side on the wheels, but there is room for more if needed. There are two 25lb plates behind each of those 50lb plates you see in the pics.

    This tractor is a worker, and has already been getting used. Its a good strong machine, and I've been enjoying it, although I have a couple complaints with its hydraulic drive that I'm working on right now.
    1. I'm adding a travel control valve with built in holding valve from a late model Ingersoll GT. This will give tractor the ability to maintain the same speed, even if your going down an incline, or being pushed faster by a tiller! :bigrofl:
    2. I'm installing a flow control valve in the hydraulic drive which will allow a much better control of ground speed. The for/rev control on Case GT's have some short comings. Unless you have the lever at full speed, your not getting maximum pressure to the hydraulic motor. So if your trying to go slow while tilling, your not getting much power to the ground, and you find yourself stopping quite often. So you push the lever further forward, and then your going to fast! :wallbanging: By adding a flow control, I can maintain a slow ground speed with maximum pressure. I really love this GT, although I'm still getting it sorted out, so it can be an enjoyable worker. I've also added Case decals to the front weights since most of these pics were taken. Thanks

    Matt


    [attachment=110565:Case 444 1.jpg] [attachment=110566:Case 444 2.jpg] [attachment=110567:Case 444 3.jpg]

    [attachment=110568:Case 444 4.jpg] [attachment=110569:Case 444 5.jpg] [attachment=110570:Case 444 6.jpg]

    [attachment=110571:Case 444 7.jpg] [attachment=110572:Case 444 8.jpg] [attachment=110573:Case 444 9.jpg]

    [attachment=110574:Case 444 10.jpg] [attachment=110575:Case 444 11.jpg] [attachment=110576:Case 444 12.jpg]

    [attachment=110578:Case 444 13.jpg] [attachment=110579:Case 444 14.jpg] [attachment=110580:Case 444 15.jpg]

    • May 04, 2014 01:11 PM
    • by bowtiebutler956
  3. GTtalk's Featured Tractor Of The Month Of A...

    Here are some before and after pictures of my 1961 Wizard garden tractor. It was sold by Western Auto and was Built by Bolens. It is the same tractor as a 1961 Bolens Ride-a-matic. At this time it is the only one that I know of.I found it on ebay several years ago in New York and it was a rust bucket in bad shape. It cost me twice as what I paid to get it shipped to Salem Oregon. It sat here for several years until my friend Dave restored it for me. Dave had a 61 Bolens years ago and was looking for one again.


    I had some extra ones so we worked a deal and he restored it. As far as we can tell the Wizards were painted orange and the wheels were what ever the color of the Bolens ones of that year. I also have a 57 Wizard and Dave has found a 59. I have heard of about five other of the 57 Wizards but not any other of the 59 or 61 models. Dave has restored several garden tractors over the years for me and does a great job.


    I have taken it to a lot of shows and display it with the other Wizard that I have and my Bolens Ride-a-matics. If any one has one of these or any info on them please let me know. I have never seen any of them with any decals so I am really unsure if they had the same as the Bolens, some thing different or no decals. thanks, Steve




    [attachment=27671:10-23-06 003.jpg]


    [attachment=27672:10-23-06 002.jpg]


    [attachment=27673:1-6-07 002.jpg]


    [attachment=27674:1-6-07 006.jpg]


    [attachment=27675:1-6-07 008.jpg]


    [attachment=27742:1-13-07 001.jpg]

    • Apr 17, 2012 04:27 PM
    • by steve johnson
  4. GTtalk's Guide to Buying a Used Garden Tractor

    Whether you are looking to buy a used tractor that is only a couple of years old or an antique garden tractor we are going to try and provide you with enough information so you can be ready to make that first purchase and feel confident about it.


    First off there are many ways to go about finding a tractor for sale. Whether it be on Craigslist, Ebay, Newspaper, or other online sources. We will try and cover everything from a blind ad like you would see in a newspaper ad with no pictures or a full out auction listing like on ebay.


    Next you need to figure out what brand, model and how much you are willing to spend. There are a lot of sweet looking and hard working tractors out there to be had for decent prices. You also need to decide whether you want to buy one that is turn key and doesn't need any work or if you are willing to put in a little elbow grease to make it the tractor it once was.


    Some brands carry higher costs just because of the name, we aren't going to argue this point but just because a tractor brand commands a higher price tag doesn't mean it is any better then brand b.


    We are going to assume that you have the models that you wouldn't mind having written down or mentally listed. We are also going to assume that you have your budget set. Now that we have our tractor we want picked out and our budget lets start on the different methods of finding it. If you don't know what make or model garden tractor you are looking for stop in the garden tractor forum and ask questions and take time to do a little more research and find the one you like.


    The Newspaper Ad:

    • These can be tough, mainly because there usually isn't any photos with the ad.
    • If the ad interests you and the price is in the neighborhood or the price isn't listed it is time to pick up the phone and call.
    • Things to ask once you contact the person on the phone:
      • What is the asking price - even if it is listed in the ad, this is when they might drop the price already because they are ready to get rid of it.
      • Ask if they are negotiable on the price
      • What is the overall condition ie; rust, parts missing, parts broken
      • Does it run, drive, everything work that is with it.
      • If everything sounds good so far ask them if they can email you pictures to help save a trip.
      • If you are still interested setup a time to meet with the person and check it out first hand
    • So now you are on your way to meet the person, hopefully you didn't wear good clothing because we are going to get dirty.
      • If you brought a wad of cash only keep the max amount you are willing to spend or what the person was asking for the tractor and put the rest in another pocket and forget about it.
      • Once you get to where you are going and meet the person start asking questions about the history of the tractor, when they acquired it and why they are selling it.
      • Now you should be standing beside the tractor by now. Don't just kick the tires, look over it really well, don't be afraid to crawl around on the ground. Here are some of the things that you want to look for:
      • Look for oil stains on the ground
      • Look for any broken pieces, sometimes covered up by gunk, don't be afraid to get your fingers dirty.
      • Check her rear end (I mean the tractor silly) and look for any gunk buildup or fresh oil that may be leaking out of any seals. If possible, jack tractor up to check for axle bearing slop, and rotate each wheel to check that they move smoothly.
      • Take a look at the belts, although these are not as important as everything else as we recommend replacing belts anyway.
      • Check the motor oil for oil level and how sludgy it looks. More then likely if the seller is smart they will change the oil and top it off before you come to look at it but some don't care. If the oil level is really low or the oil is extremely filthy or you can see metal silvering / flakes in the oil this should raise a little caution.
      • If the seller said it runs now is the time to fire it up, or if it doesn't run try turning the motor over by hand to make sure it isn't siezed. You also want to make sure it has compression and this can be hard to gauge as a lot of motors have a decompression mechanism to lower compression for easier starting.
      • Hopefully she fires right off, if it takes some coaxing to fire off it doesn't mean walk away from the deal. Could just be the carb needs cleaned, has bad fuel or the motor could have low compression. The low compression can be one of a couple of things, cylinder could be worn, rings are bad, or it could just be a sticking valve.
      • Once the motor is fired up look at the exhaust, if there is no smoke this is good, if there is a blackish/dark gray smoke this is just too rich of a mixture, if it is a bluish gray / whitish smoke this means oil is getting into the combustion chamber. There are a lot of motors out there that have some bluish tinted smoke and they last for years and others not so. Basically if it has bluish/whitish smoke be ready to drop the price you are willing to offer. Also, run engine to full operating temp. Many times loose rod fit will not show up until the oil thins, until then, many knocks won't be audible.
      • Check all the controls to see if they are in working order and also drive the tractor around. If it is manual transmission check all the gears, if it is hydro check all operating positions and with both style drivetrains listen for any weird noises like grinding or squealing.
      • If everything is working like it should make the seller an offer, if it is a great deal to begin with don't expect to make it any better but it doesn't hurt to try. If the tractor needs some work and you feel the seller is asking too much make them an offer, worse they can do is say no and you walk away. If this is the case and you would like to have the tractor give it a day or two and call the seller and make them another offer. A lot of times if the seller hasn't had any other bites they will take you up on your original offer or negotiate something in between.
      • We can't tell you what to offer or what a tractor is worth. A tractor is worth whatever you are willing to pay.
    The Craigslist Ad:
    • First off we love Craigslist. You can find a lot of good deals on there.
    • The other added benefit of craigslist is more the likely you will get to see some pictures of the tractor in question without contacting the seller.
    • Pretty much everything from the newspaper ad above covers what you would want to do.
    • If you find a tractor on craigslist that interests you, don't wait. Been there done that and always left without a good deal because someone else already bought it.
    Ebay:
    • Ebay can be good or bad and when we say that you might end up getting a great deal because of a bad listing ending time or you may end up paying more for a tractor then you normally would have because of getting caught up in the action.
    • Some listings the seller will allow you to come look at the item and this is a big plus because you get to actually check out the tractor before bidding on it. For some the item might be too far away.
    • It is very important to set a spending limit as this will help keep you from spending too much on a tractor that you normally wouldn't have spent so much for.
    • The other thing I recommend even though it may not be the best for the seller to get what they are asking for an item but that is to bid at the last 30 seconds with you max bid and if you win you win, someone else might have did the same thing with a max bid higher then yours but that is the name of the game when it comes to online auction style listings.
    All information should be able to be applied to any listing that you find, whether it is one of the above mentioned places or sites like GTtalk or other classified resources. Hopefully we have provided you with enough information to be able to feel confident when looking for your next garden tractor.

    • Jan 04, 2015 11:01 AM
    • by NUTNDUN
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