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  1. Bent Clutch Rod II

    [attachment=339064:1 - Clutch rod bent.jpg][attachment=339066:2 - Hex Bolt prior to washer.jpg][attachment=339070:4 - Clutch New Push Rod.jpg][attachment=339072:5 - Clevis.gif][attachment=339074:6 - Front Clutch Plate.jpg][attachment=339076:8 - Clutch 8 Old and New Pullys.jpg]With the help of others on the Bolens Forums, I began to analyze the problem.

     

    See photo 1 - attached- the bent and mal-adjusted clutch rod

     

    It was suggested that I replace the bushing in the clutch pedal which helped, but did not solve the problem.

     

    It was also pointed out that I had no clutch material and needed a new clutch so I ordered one from Bolens Parts and Supply's (a great company) . While waiting, I decided to check all my mounting bolts.

     

    I removed the front drive shaft hex bolt and lock washer. See photo 2. When I was ready to re-assemble, I noticed a washer missing so I found and installed it - Photo 3. In doing so, the clutch adjustment came right in. Upon further examination and looking at the witness marks on the hex nut, I concluded that the drive shaft was moving at lease one half an inch that lead to the miss-alignment of the entire drive train. One of the previous owners left the washer off causing a multitude of problems.

     

    The clutch rod looked somewhat better with the washer repair so I decided to make a new clutch rod from a commercial clevis and a 3/8-16 the rod cut to proper length to match the bent rod. See photo 4. The clevis detail is on photo 5.

     

    This now brings me to the clutch replacement. After following the drive train removal instructions in the repair manual, I was confronted with the front clutch flange removal. I did not see removal instructions in the manual, however I noticed 2 flats on the plate see photo 6. I clamped the rear of the drive shaft with channel locks and used an adjustable wrench to move the plate using the flats. The plate screwed off with with some resistance. Once removed, the clutch section pulled right off. See photo 7 showing the clutch removed.

     

    To my surprise, their was no clutch material left on either side of the pully assembly. Still, the tractor ran fine with no slippage - see photo 8.

     

    Upon re-assembling the clutch and front flange, turn the flange until it stops on the inner sleeve. When the installation is near hitting the sleeve, the turns will get difficult.

     

    Bottom line - all works well - almost new drive train (needs a new front bearing that I ordered today.

     

    OK - this is what I learned and hope this write-up will help others.

     

    Warm Regards - FB

    • Oct 23, 2020 02:15 PM
    • by Fbeafore
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