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what do you know about clutch materials

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#1 Salatino OFFLINE  



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Posted December 05, 2011 - 06:00 PM

Ok everyone, I'm finally gettin back to workin on the cc 100. What i'm gettin ready to do is basically gonna have the 3 pin clutch driver back to the driveshaft coupler redone. this is 1 of the major parts on the cub I've wanted to buildup. I'm havin both pressure plates resurfaced and the edges trued up along with the 3 pin driver trued up.stainless steel driveshaft ,cultivator spring " the blue spring,bout twice as strong as the stock spring" of course instead of the teaser spring it will have the steel spacer ad lock washer.Also going to have a 3 inch coupler made. I'm goin with the aluminum clutch disc. Now since im going to have everything there would you guys recomend havin the 3 spiral pins pressed out of the driver plate and go ahead with the studs? I can turn it into a 6 pin driver but I was currious if the studs would be better the the spiral pins. Its not gonna be a puller but if I was going to build 1 of my other cubs later on I would have this to put on it if I wanted to go that route. the reason I'm goin with the 3 inch coupler is because I plan on using bolts instead of the pins , 1 reason the stock coupler is driller offset and it would throw it outta balance. does anyone have a aluminum clutch disc on there cub and if so how do you like it. Any info would be awsome. thanks for reading. By the way I'm going to get some pics here today or tomorrow showing some of the progress on the 100.

#2 Kyocum OFFLINE  



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Posted December 06, 2011 - 12:01 AM

I personally feel if this is going to be a non pulling tractor you are going way overboard. Not sure what you mean by truing up the 3 pin driver plate. Nothing to true up. If you get rid of the teaser spring you will lose capabilities of being able to slip the clutch if necessary. Not ideal for a daily driver. If you use bolts instead of coiled spirol pins you will tear up the input shaft on the transmission. They will eventually start slopping back and forth and egg out the 1/4" hole on the shaft. Aluminum plates are for the real high hp machines also. It is your tractor do as you please. This is just my opinion.

#3 hotya100 OFFLINE  



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Posted December 07, 2011 - 12:46 AM

We had a similiar clutch setup in our stock pulling tractor. "Truing up" the 3 pin driver isn't really needed, if it is warped that bad it should be replaced. Check the bushing inside the driver hub for wear. 3 pin or 6 pin driver? The six pin is used in pulling to spread the stress of the driver to 6 holes on the clutch disc instead of 3. This isn't needed for non-pulling applications. If you use the cultivator spring, make sure to install the inner liner inside the spring and over the drive shaft. We never had any trouble with removing the teaser spring and cup and running the lock washer with a spacer. Roll pins or studs? If the roll pins are in good shape, leave as is. If you decide to go with the six pin set-up, the threaded studs will have to be installed or the extra holes would need built up like the original three so the pins won't pull out. Aluminum clutch disc? It does not slip. Good for pulling, but a pain in the butt if you are wanting to slip the clutch to back up or pull forward. A lot of guys are running the Kevlar discs that either Midwest Super Cub or Vogel sells. 3" or stock coupler? I don't understand the stock coupler being drilled offset. We use bolts in 3" coupler in our puller. We get some that has a long un-threaded body that keeps the threads out of contact with either the coupler, drive shaft or pinion shaft. We run the 3" coupler to be able to change over the pinions set while in the tractor. Running the clutch assembly at 3800 rpms will probably not cause too many out of balance issues.

Good luck with your project. :wewantpics: