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#1 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted November 27, 2011 - 08:55 PM

Spent some time today rewiring my Sears ss12.
I did it as per the top schematic.

Posted Image


After I was done, I realized that my key ignition switch is not grounded, as it
is a plastic body. I haven't tried it yet, but my understanding is that the body
must be grounded, so that when the key is turned off, it grounds the ignition
wire, and stops the engine. Am I correct there?
So, other than getting a new switch, are there any options that will fix this?

Thanks

#2 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted November 28, 2011 - 02:49 AM

Will it work if I remove the ignition wire from the key switch, and put it to a push button switch, that goes to ground?
To shut down one would push button till engine stops, and then turn key off.

#3 ckjakline OFFLINE  

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Posted November 28, 2011 - 04:06 AM

if i remember correctly,some of the masseys ground at engine and go to the M terminal on key switch.I think thats how my 2 67s were wired.I never dealt w/plastic switch though.

#4 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted November 28, 2011 - 08:09 AM

Will, hope to catch you before you apply power.

What ignition system does this have?

If it's CDI (electronic) do NOT apply power. The switch you have is the wrong one and can/will cook the spark module.

#5 ducky ONLINE  

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Posted November 28, 2011 - 08:17 AM

Will
Make a washer that fits over the switch and solder a wire to it and run the wire to a goo ground.
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#6 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted November 28, 2011 - 09:37 AM

Will, hope to catch you before you apply power.

What ignition system does this have?

If it's CDI (electronic) do NOT apply power. The switch you have is the wrong one and can/will cook the spark module.



Well, FIDDLE STICKS.

First thing today, I removed the ignition wire from the "I" terminal on the new plastic
switch, and guess what. No spark from CDI.

It all stems back to this post http://gardentractor...e53/#post112554

Take a look at the back of the old switch. Thats the "M" terminal inbetween the
2 big red guys. I bet that CDI felt just like a northern bush hog.

I have a couple spare CDIs.

But back to my ??? about a push stop button? will that work?

Attached Thumbnails

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  • P1010288.jpg


#7 ducky ONLINE  

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Posted November 28, 2011 - 10:33 AM

A push button with enough amp rating would work fine and a toggle to ground the CDI.

#8 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted November 28, 2011 - 10:50 AM

A push button with enough amp rating would work fine and a toggle to ground the CDI.


Ok, now you got me lost.

My thought was to keep the new plastic key swith in, and use it just for starting.
The wire that runs forward, and was on the "M" contact on the old key switch, I had in mind, needs to be
grounded to stop the engine, so if I put it to a push button to ground, that would stop spark.

edit.
I just reread your post. That's what your saying, except your suggesting a push button start rather than key switch. Right?

#9 ducky ONLINE  

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Posted November 28, 2011 - 11:02 AM

Yes that is what I meant but yes you could use the existing switch to start and a second switch to shut down. Just as long as no power goes to the CDI.
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#10 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted November 28, 2011 - 03:01 PM

Sorry I didn't get to you before it happened.

Yes, a kill Push Button will work fine, I prefer toggle switches for kill, that way if someone bumps the key, it's not off & running. Oh, and don't junk that CDI yet... you may want to do an Ed Stoller conversion someday & need it for the Pickup.

#11 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted November 28, 2011 - 04:13 PM

Sorry I didn't get to you before it happened.

Yes, a kill Push Button will work fine, I prefer toggle switches for kill, that way if someone bumps the key, it's not off & running. Oh, and don't junk that CDI yet... you may want to do an Ed Stoller conversion someday & need it for the Pickup.



Thanks for trying to catch me from a freefall, without a parachute.

I think it happened 2 weeks ago. So, now to fix it. I'll be back later about that.

#12 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted November 28, 2011 - 07:00 PM

So I pulled the tin off the Sears 12hp TEC, model 143-592022, ser# 9041 08283

Thats the second picture(the toasted CDI)

Then I pulled the tin off a hh120, that I know runs, but lots of knocking in the inside.
It's on a MF12.(1970) HH120-120045C Ser# 9321 08054

Different guts there.
??? is will the stuff off the good one fit on the other.

I'm hoping someone has gone down the same road, before I spend a bunch of time researching/wrenching.

Thanks

Attached Thumbnails

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#13 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted November 28, 2011 - 08:19 PM

This isn't simple anymore.

You will have to change what's behind the flywheel (including the bearing holder as that's different too), the flywheel itself and the CDI. Not a hard job, but more than swapping just the CDI.

Since you have nuttin' to lose, try this. Try shorting the input to the CDI to ground while turning the engine over. Had this work once for me (old timer told me to try it... Said they'd "lock up" sometimes)

#14 1978murray OFFLINE  

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Posted November 29, 2011 - 10:29 AM

thats one reason i like briggs. if u want to make it CDI all u do is bolt it on and dont change anything

#15 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted December 02, 2011 - 06:54 AM


Since you have nuttin' to lose, try this. Try shorting the input to the CDI to ground while turning the engine over. Had this work once for me (old timer told me to try it... Said they'd "lock up" sometimes)



Alan, I gave this a try last night. No luck. I guess there is a difference between
"locked up", and "fried up".
Going to make some room in the shop today, and get that MF donor in, so I can switch
over the parts. I really want to get this SS12 going, now that we've got a bit of snow.
This is the one with skiis.




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