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Shaw Du-All -11


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35 replies to this topic

#1 jdcrawler OFFLINE  

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Posted November 21, 2011 - 04:35 PM

I finally found a seat spring that would work on this tractor.

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As a reminder ... this was the cramped drivers area when I got the tractor.
The bottom of the steering wheel was below the bottom of the seat.
The gear shift was directly in front of the steering wheel so you had to reach over the steering wheel to shift the transmission.
Your feet had to be tucked in between the seat and the steering wheel.

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This is how the driver area looks now.

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With the drive belt running along the right side of the tractor, you will only be able to get on and off the tractor from the left side.
To make it easier to do that, I mounted a step plate under the frame on the left side.

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Viewed from the side.

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Making the arm to mount the clutch pulley to tighten the drive belt.

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The clutch arm is welded to a 3/4 inch shaft.
This will pivot on bushings that are pressed into the mounting bracket.

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Here's how it looks mounted in place.

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A spring is hooked over a sleeve on the pulley mounting bolt and pulls the pulley down on the belt to tighten it.
Another arm is mounted on this side of the shaft and goes down along side the frame.
This will be connected to the clutch pedal to operate the pulley.

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This is the crossover shaft for the clutch system.
It is a steel tube with bearings in each end.
The clutch pedal will me welded to the left side of the shaft and the clutch operating arm will be welded to the right side.

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The clutch crossover shaft fits down in between the frame rails.
It rotates on a 3/4 inch shaft that goes thru both frame rails.
The 3/4 inch shaft has a plate welded on this end and that plate is bolted to the side of the frame.

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Here is the clutch shaft with the arm and rod to operate the clutch pulley.

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The clutch shaft is re-mounted back in the frame and ready for placement of the clutch pedal.

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The rod is hooked up to the clutch pulley arm underneath the tractor.

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This is the end of the 3/4 inch shaft that goes thru the frame.
I brought it out past the frame so the brake pedal could mount on it.
The end of the shaft is threaded so I can mount a support bracket from it to the frame.

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The brake pedal will come up between the frame and the drive belt.

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#2 wvbuzzmaster OFFLINE  

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Posted November 21, 2011 - 04:58 PM

Looking great Ray, It has come a long way from when you first brought it home.
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#3 Amigatec OFFLINE  

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Posted November 21, 2011 - 05:08 PM

Is that transmission from a Model A Ford? It sure looks like it.
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#4 tractorman604 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 21, 2011 - 05:22 PM

Wow is that ever neat looking! i have never seen one of those ever. Great job!
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#5 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted November 21, 2011 - 06:25 PM

That looks much better, Ray. Bet it feels more comfortable too. Keep it up and she'll look factory built.
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#6 jdcrawler OFFLINE  

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Posted November 21, 2011 - 06:52 PM

Is that transmission from a Model A Ford? It sure looks like it.

The transmission isn't a Ford model-A transmission, it's a Borg Warner.
From the information I've been able to find the transmissions were built specifically for the Shaw garden tractors.
I thought it would be hard to shift in a sideways motion like it is but it actually shifts quite easy.

#7 jdcrawler OFFLINE  

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Posted November 21, 2011 - 07:04 PM

Wow is that ever neat looking! i have never seen one of those ever.

The reason you've never seen one is because it is not a factory built tractor.
It is a homemade tractor that was most likely built back in the 40's or 50's.
I'm just re-designing and re-building it.

#8 70Blazer OFFLINE  

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Posted November 21, 2011 - 10:07 PM

Nice tractor. Fantastic improvements...
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#9 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted November 22, 2011 - 05:22 AM

Excellent,excellent,excellent.:thumbs::thumbs::thumbs:
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#10 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted November 22, 2011 - 06:05 AM

Great Job Ray! :bounce: :worshippy1:
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#11 jdcrawler OFFLINE  

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Posted November 22, 2011 - 06:52 AM

I thought I found a set of rear wheel extensions on ebay so I could put dual rims on the back.
Unfortunately, they must have been made of gold.
Two guys have gotten into a bidding war and drove the price way over what my budget allows.

#12 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted November 22, 2011 - 07:25 AM

That's what I hate about that place, drive the price out of site. I started to bid on something one time and every time I put in a bid, it came back and said I needed to increase it. I quit bidding.
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#13 70Blazer OFFLINE  

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Posted November 22, 2011 - 10:07 PM

I just read all the previous post up to this update, your skills are top notch. If I had just a small amount of your skill, tools, and ideas, I'd be dangerous. Super work!!! I love this build...
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#14 wvbuzzmaster OFFLINE  

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Posted November 22, 2011 - 11:46 PM

Ray, I think I drive the prices up on ebay because I overbid on everything I want. If it says Springfield on it... and I don't have it... I will own it lol. For instance, this week I bought a binder full of Springfield manuals, a Springfield turn plow, and a Springfield disc. I didn't feel like the price was driven up by other collectors, but by people looking for a good deal and not understanding the significance of these items. I ended up spending over 100 dollars each auction. Still a good deal for stuff I don't see at all, and for sale at that.
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#15 wvbuzzmaster OFFLINE  

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Posted November 22, 2011 - 11:48 PM

Also... why don't you just make your own wheel extensions?? All you need is steel and a set of rollers.
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