Jump to content

Nominations for Tractor of the Month
Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

Hydraulics Guru's needed for a little advice


  • Please log in to reply
73 replies to this topic

#46 skyrydr2 OFFLINE  

skyrydr2

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 5032
  • 3,418 Thanks
  • 3,164 posts
  • Location: Gardner, Massachusetts!

Posted November 30, 2011 - 06:43 AM

Oh man, what a cake walk, mount the pump to the flywheel directly, get rid of that screen thing and then mount a tank over the battery ,or better yet, over the aircleaner so it can be moved easily for access . Nevermind clutching it. Then you can have live Hydraulics all the time, including powersteering if you like.
  • dave8338 said thank you

#47 Alc ONLINE  

Alc

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1094
  • 5,458 Thanks
  • 6,625 posts
  • Location: Bangor Pa

Posted November 30, 2011 - 08:47 AM

There you go ! Good idea , Al

Oh man, what a cake walk, mount the pump to the flywheel directly, get rid of that screen thing and then mount a tank over the battery ,or better yet, over the aircleaner so it can be moved easily for access . Nevermind clutching it. Then you can have live Hydraulics all the time, including powersteering if you like.




#48 dave8338 OFFLINE  

dave8338

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 6698
  • 196 Thanks
  • 374 posts

Posted November 30, 2011 - 09:42 AM

This is what I'm talking about. IF there is enough room to mount the pump directly above the flywheel and still get the hood to close (may have to do a little fiberglass "bump out") I'm all for easy and highly functional. The jackshaft option is in the mix, as well. Ideally, I would have the pump below the reservoir so that there was at least some gravity feed to the pump. It is not required however, with the gear pump I ordered. I love the thought of powersteering. Thanks, guys.

#49 KennyP OFFLINE  

KennyP

    FORDoholic

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2253
  • 28,483 Thanks
  • 39,716 posts
  • Location: Collinsville, Oklahoma

Posted November 30, 2011 - 09:50 AM

I'm getting ready to mount a pump on the Ford, may have to scratch my head on where I can put it. The flywheel side of these is pretty full with the 5 gallon gas tank and car battery in it. Pump may not be such a problem, it's the tank that may cause a lot of scratching.

#50 olcowhand OFFLINE  

olcowhand

    Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Sponsor
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 20
  • 35,650 Thanks
  • 29,840 posts
  • Location: South Central Kentucky

Posted November 30, 2011 - 10:00 AM

To drive direct from the flywheel, you'll have to build a strong plate with extensions down to the head, as the sheet metal will be destroyed by the torque if pu8mp mount is fastened to them. Likely need to replace a couple head bolts on each side with high grade all thread, then use one nut to secure head and use spacers out to the plate to clear the head shrouding. Just cut some holes in the head shroud for these to protrude through.
  • KennyP said thank you

#51 Alc ONLINE  

Alc

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1094
  • 5,458 Thanks
  • 6,625 posts
  • Location: Bangor Pa

Posted November 30, 2011 - 11:52 AM

Can't tell by the picture but could you mount the pump where the idler pulley is ? That's driven all the time I think .Might be able to use a flat face idler pulley for the tension with a longer belt to get more contact area on the pump pulley , just throwing ideas at you , Al

#52 dave8338 OFFLINE  

dave8338

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 6698
  • 196 Thanks
  • 374 posts

Posted November 30, 2011 - 04:31 PM

Thanks for all the input guys. I need every option on the table as to pump location. It should arrive this weekend and unless I ordered the wrong one...it should be bi-directional so as to be able to mount it on either end of the engine. Upside down, if I want to...
Al, it "may" fit either in that location OR on the other side and YES that belt is the main drive belt for the trans-axle, so it is always turning.
If I can settle on a replacement trans-axle, I may have another option or three, on the bottom side, for pump locations. The tank is going to be a PITA as far as getting max capacities vs. available space. Time will tell. 3" lift cylinder is on the way, also...

#53 dave8338 OFFLINE  

dave8338

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 6698
  • 196 Thanks
  • 374 posts

Posted December 02, 2011 - 03:19 PM

Waiting for pieces / parts to show up, so I thought I would do a little digging on log splitters and ran accross this video. The design is what I have in mind, with bi-directional splitting so as not to have to wait for the cylinder to return. I will however...mount mine vertical and have the cylinder control lever, mounted to the splitter. This way, I can stand up instead of working bent over, as in this video.

Ingersoll Garden Tractor Hydraulic 2-way Log Splitter Model K-32 - YouTube
  • Alc said thank you

#54 Alc ONLINE  

Alc

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1094
  • 5,458 Thanks
  • 6,625 posts
  • Location: Bangor Pa

Posted December 02, 2011 - 06:35 PM

That log splitter is pretty cool !! With those extensions to keep the wood from falling off looked like that would be handy too . Al

#55 TUDOR OFFLINE  

TUDOR

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 915
  • 543 Thanks
  • 497 posts
  • Location: Sault Ste Marie, Ontario

Posted December 03, 2011 - 03:10 PM

Don't sweat the reservoir location. Anywhere on the tractor will work with the correct size supply hose for the pump, although hose routing can bring its own headaches. The pump location is the hard one to make serviceable on your tractor. Many tractors do take their power from the flywheel side.
  • dave8338 said thank you

#56 dave8338 OFFLINE  

dave8338

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 6698
  • 196 Thanks
  • 374 posts

Posted December 03, 2011 - 07:16 PM

Thanks for the bit of "go get em". :beerchug:

Once I get everything here, and on the bench, I'll have a little better idea, of which direction, I'll need to go. 10-12 gal capacity, is all I'm looking or. I've also checked into the various hydro styles of coolers. Not sure what I'll use until things start comming together.

#57 dave8338 OFFLINE  

dave8338

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 6698
  • 196 Thanks
  • 374 posts

Posted December 08, 2011 - 02:22 PM

Have you ever recieved a part for a project in the mail and thought to yourself: "This is too nice to use"? I had that thought last night when opening up the box that the UPS fairy dropped off yesterday, while I was at work.

Once open...I looked in and saw the most beautiful little hydraulic cylinder, that I have ever seen. So nice in fact, that I left it on the coffee table overnight, just so that I could sneak a glimps at it again, this morning, on my way out the door. Almost "pic-worthy", it came all the way from Sweden, just to join the game. :bounce:
  • MH81 said thank you

#58 dave8338 OFFLINE  

dave8338

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 6698
  • 196 Thanks
  • 374 posts

Posted December 13, 2011 - 03:00 PM

The Cub Cadet fans will be happy. It looks like I have a solid line on a Cub 782 complete hydro set up and the rear end. If it pans out...I'll be going with the cubs hydraulics for the lift cylinder (three point and deck), power steering (option), and the final drive for the rear end. :smile1: I'll still need the second aux pump (looks like a two pump option after all) for the hydraulic motor on the tiller and additional ports, out the front. The good news, if I go this route, I can run the aux pump off the existing electric PTO clutch.

I'll know more in a day or so...

#59 skyrydr2 OFFLINE  

skyrydr2

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 5032
  • 3,418 Thanks
  • 3,164 posts
  • Location: Gardner, Massachusetts!

Posted December 14, 2011 - 04:46 AM

Are you going to use the entire cub? As it has a horizontal shaft engine? Just do like all the tractor puller folks, and put the green tin on the cub chassis , then you will have a Jon Cadet LOL.

#60 dave8338 OFFLINE  

dave8338

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 6698
  • 196 Thanks
  • 374 posts

Posted December 14, 2011 - 02:02 PM

Are you going to use the entire cub? As it has a horizontal shaft engine? Just do like all the tractor puller folks, and put the green tin on the cub chassis , then you will have a Jon Cadet LOL.


LOL :D

I'm sure that there will be a splice to the JD frame.

For some reason, as easy as it would make things, I'm holding strong on the vertical crank Briggs. I know it GREATLY complicates things, but that is part of the fun. :wallbanging:
I can say, that a rear end splice will make the project a little less difficult and when done, should look as if it were always built that way. If/when looking at the two side by side, it becomes obvious that it will NEVER work, I'll have to regroup and go from there. I do know, that there should be room/clearance for a mule drive setup, to go from the vertical Briggs, to the horizontal Cub rearend. If not...




Top