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Plow Problems!


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#1 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted November 20, 2011 - 07:31 AM

After moving the dirt out of the raised bed, I pulled the east half lumber off to prep the ground for next spring. I got the plow out and cleaned the rust off it.
Image009.jpg
Next, I set the tractor up on a 4X4 & 2X12. This set the Left of the tractor up 5", which I am assuming would be correct for a 10" plow. Attached the plow and set it level to the ground. Backed the tractor off the lumber and the plow was only about 1/2" off the ground when raised fully. What's wrong here? Wouldn't go any higher!
Okay, maybe it will work. Backed up to where I wanted to start, dropped the plow. Started forward, wouldn't dig in the soil. Backed up and adjusted the toe for more angle. Still wouldn't dig in. Rear of plow looked to be angled toward the left side at the back end. Backed up again, adjusted the bolts on the sleeve hitch so the plow was straight behind the tractor. Still wouldn't dig in. I hate hitches with slots for floating. I had no down pressure to get it to start digging in, just floated across the top of the ground. Adjusted the toe for more dig in angle, went down about 3". But looked to be leaning too far to the left, not letting the full cutting edge of the plow dig in. Just part of the toe of the plow was going into the ground. Couldn't lift the plow off the ground with the adjustment I had. Gave up, unhooked the plow and got the tiller out. THAT chewed things up!
I think I am going to have to rework the sleeve hitch. When it bent using the tow bar, I warped it so it sits lower on the left side. I think this keeps the plow from digging in correctly. Plus I need to get more height out of it when I raise the plow. And I will get rid of the "float". Nice in certain situations, but a real pain if you have it all the time.
Image010.jpg
I did have to use the blade to level things out so I could till it and I got the tires dirty.
The tractor itself preformed beautifully. Didn't even need the chains! I'll get the sleeve hitch back on and take a pic of the 'list' in it today.
I also noticed the 'c' of the hitch on the front of the plow seemed spread open quite a bit. This may cause the plow to hang lower. It had about 1/4"+ slop up and down.

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#2 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted November 20, 2011 - 07:40 AM

Kenny, I'm no expert in plowing so I don't know whats going on there. However, I've read up on sleeve hitches and the C on the implement is supposed to be nominally 31/2 inches. The hitch is nominally 31/4" so having 1/4" slop would be normal. I have a hitch on my 314 but no implements for it. I really like those Fords. Someone had a 165 for sale here but wanted 2000 for it with a single stage blower, mower and a snow blade. A bit too much $ for me right now.
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#3 skyrydr2 ONLINE  

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Posted November 20, 2011 - 07:47 AM

The lift arm on the sleeve needs to be shortened a bit for more hieght and should be made of at least 1/2" material . you have almost 4200 pounds of pull at the link. so making the arm shorter wont hurt a thing, but you must make it out of at least 1/2"x2" x 4-6" long, and weld it on good :thumbs:

#4 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted November 20, 2011 - 08:13 AM

Couple of things. The first will take a little goofing around, but you need to know. Set the plow on flat cement and get creative to where you can measure the angle of the sleeve hitch vs. the main beam. It should be twisted at 10 degrees. We found that the reason we have to add weight to Ryan's plow is it is twisted a couple of degrees (how you bend that with a GT, IDK)

I think this is your problem with it not going in. Next couple are leaps of faith, the plow has to float both up and down (safety) and left to right on the sleeve. I fought with mine for 2 afternoons before I figured it out.

One last thing. As for the camber/caster ( don't know the technical term) but where the plow looks "turned". In the setup manual, there is a bolt that pushes against the land side. You have to loosen several bolts on the plow to adjust this, but it does "twist" the plow on the beam. Also in the setup manual, is the chart to figure out if your sleeve hitch needs flipped over and which hole to use for your tractor's width.
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#5 poncho62 ONLINE  

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Posted November 20, 2011 - 08:13 AM

Maybe its the angle of the picture, but looking at it, it seems to me that your cutting wheel is too far over....Maybe it should be on the other side of the plow frame to put it right in front of the leading point of the plow blade?

However, looking at this pic of mine....

Posted Image

I may be wrong...Mine seems to be over like that too.....Mine is only about a 6" blade, but it cuts in great
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#6 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted November 20, 2011 - 08:22 AM

Keith, is this what you are talking about?
Image0072 (Small).jpg

#7 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted November 20, 2011 - 08:53 AM

Alan, I will get some more pics today, that may clear a few things up. I do have the Brinly pdf for the plow. Looking in it, the sleeve hitch adapter may be installed wrong. And the landside is pushed way to the left. But my biggest concern is the tractor sleeve hitch. If it is twisted with the top toward the left, the plow will not set level when it is in a furrow. I'm printing out the plow manual right now.

#8 skyrydr2 ONLINE  

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Posted November 20, 2011 - 09:06 AM

Keith, is this what you are talking about?
[ATTACH=CONFIG]25135[/ATTACH]

Yes Kenny thats it , make sure its rugged !

#9 Lauber1 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 20, 2011 - 12:23 PM

Im not any expert on sleeve hitched plows, but by nature a plow will want to go down into the earth. Its the shape of it that makes this so. To help it enter better the front of the share needs to be lower than the heel. It goingto be hard to get it started on the first pass, but on the second one, when your down in the furrow with the wheels, the angles should be right for the plow to suck on in. Then its a struggle to get it not to bury its self. This part is fixed by either having a gauge wheel or raising the point of the share up with some type of screw. The coulter should be set only deep enough to cut the trash and just a little dirt. This keeps the furrow wall clean, so on the next pass the landside has a place to bear against and keep the bottom running straight. This is called side draft. i think on your first opening pass, you should just sit the plow flat on the ground, with the nose pointing down, maybe put 2" or more of space between the heel and the ground. Then on the second pass you can adjust it so that the bottom is flatter with the furrow. The beam should be at a 90 to the furrow wall, the point should be slightly down, and the landside should be fairly the same distance from the wall at the front and back. Not sure what to say on the lifting point, as i only use a true 3pt and its setup differnt. I think maybe the reason you cant get it in is the plow is rolled to far to the right at start, because your not down in a furrow, only on top of it.
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#10 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted November 20, 2011 - 01:30 PM

I get what you are saying, Lauber1. But I think when I bent the sleeve hitch this summer, it is twisted to the left. This keeps the heel of the plow from cutting in like it should. I could get the toe to start down, but the heel wanted to ride up over the sod. It may be dull as all get out too, the point shows some wear. I was trying to plow bermuda grass, which probably isn't that easy to do any way.

#11 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted November 20, 2011 - 05:56 PM

I didn't get out today! It's been drizzly all day and cool. I'll get some pics after turkey day (next decent weather).

#12 coldone OFFLINE  

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Posted November 20, 2011 - 06:57 PM

I aint an expert either but heres my $.02 worth.

I tried all that setup stuff too and it never did work for me. The first pass, I use what ever adjustment i can to get it to cut a furrow. Then I get the tractor in the furrow for the next pass. I pull it a little to get it started, about 5 feet. Then I start the real adjustments. I use a 3PH so i drop the land side adjustment down a few inches and give it another pull. It will usually ride up, point comes up, and I adjust the top link to put the point back down. I start pulling the row and see what it does. It usually takes about another row before i am happy with the adjustments.

If you want to try using the boards again, do it after you make the first furrow. On the first the tractor is flat so the plow will act differently than if its already in the furrow.
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