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Painting Implement's

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#1 tractorman604 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 17, 2011 - 02:00 PM

Do any of you care to share your secret's on how you paint your implements.For instance do you mostly prime and rattle can or get right picky and do a full restore on them eg. sandblast, prime , paint hardener etc.:anyone:

#2 plowboy OFFLINE  



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Posted November 17, 2011 - 02:18 PM

i sand to remove rust and rough spots then apply paint thick with brush and roller. 2 coats of spray clear coat and new and shiny...lol. i work mine tho, if they were for show i may be a lil more picky....lol
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#3 Lauber1 OFFLINE  


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Posted November 17, 2011 - 02:28 PM

ya ill tell you. If one wants an attachment to last for forever paint wise, you have to get it down to the bare metal. You can acid drip it, blaster it, or just wire brush the heck out of it. If you dont get the old junk out it will just come back and haunt you later. We need to remember that this stuff was tools, not show car things, so the orginal paint on lots of stuff was run down a dip line and only got a finish color, no primers were used on much of it.

Here i always blast it, check it for damaged/ worn areas, repair it, reassemble it for proper fit, dis assemble it again and then we paint. I try to use an acid etching primer so i get good contact, with my finished coating. If its sheet metal, then i will lightly sand the primer, if its a casting i just paint it. In painting i only use Van Sickle paint, mostly in spray cans, but sometimes i will get the gallon sizes and spray it with air. On a very few parts, mostly cast ones, I do dip them in a bucket of paint, hang them up and let dry. When your handling clean parts, try to wear some kind of clean gloves, as if your like me, dirt just happens to stick like a magnet to my hands, and how many times has something else caught your eye and you looked it over by touching it.

Most paint problems come from lack of prep and poor after handling. The next thing that messes it up is getting in a hurry to work with it before it fully cured. Some parts i let hang on the line for a month before i play with them again. Castings are the worst for drying out uneven, because of the pores in them.

Alot of the painting, depends on how big the part is, how many do you have, how soon do you have to have it done. Things like bolts, i put though a hole(s) in a card board box, paint them, leave them a day, them lay them flat on another piece of clean box, and repiant them. It hard to not damage the paint on fasterns, so some times after assembly i'll spot spray them again, or get out a little brush.

Ok theres some some double secret probation answers, some might work for you , others may not.
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#4 smasher OFFLINE  



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Posted November 17, 2011 - 04:19 PM

I have access to a sandblasting booth and glass bead cabinet and they are great for restoring parts, but if your going to use your equipment i suggest a product call rust bullet i came across it at my buddies shop, he was using it on large submersible pumps and all the prep was to knock off the loose rust with a chipping hammer. I bought a gallon and have been using it on everything for about a year seems to work good but it's not cheap. My cans almost empty and ill have to save up some funds to get another
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Posted November 17, 2011 - 04:43 PM

Lauber is pretty much right on the money on the original painting. From 1972-1984 I worked in the Grinnell Iowa Plant for Farmhand, building farm machinery. 8 yrs of that was in the paint department. Most of the product was made with hot rolled steel and had scale on it. After Weld Splatter was scraped and grinding done(just enough to knock off rough spots and polish , The Steel was washed with a water acid solution that would blue the scale. That was washed off and dried. The parts went directly to the paint booth in that condition(no primer was used) and sprayed or dipped with a quality Ag Enamel(Mostly Iowa Paint brand). For about 5 yrs the enamel was baked for 35 minutes, then they went to air dry paints. After spraying the stuff for so long, it took me a while to get to where I was not sick, just seeing IH Red & Yellow.

Another though on blasting t, our plant manager got this idea of using Garnet abrasive in the sand blaster to save money. It was hard and reuseable many times, but it left the metal with a surface much like a sandbur and had to be polished. They abandoned that plan. But you would be amazed at the mirror like surface you can get with worn 80 grit discs after you have hung onto a 8" pneumatic grinder 40 hrs a week for a month or so.

Edited by JD DANNELS, November 17, 2011 - 05:08 PM.

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#6 nra1ifer OFFLINE  



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Posted November 17, 2011 - 05:35 PM

I strip the implement down to bare metal, prime, then brush with primer and a top color coat.
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#7 ckjakline OFFLINE  



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Posted November 17, 2011 - 05:58 PM

I restored a 10"brinly sleeve hitch plow.I took the plow apart.Had it sandblasted and powder coated.Finish came out nice and smooth,and should be pretty durable also. Replaced all the hardware .Wire wheeled the depth adjustment handle and just sprayed clear on it.This one is just for show.I have it mounted on the back of my restorded massey 10.They look good together.If i was doing one to use i would just sandblast and spray paint it to make it look decent.
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#8 olcowhand ONLINE  


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Posted November 17, 2011 - 06:10 PM

I usually try to blast or electrolysis everything down to bare metal, then prime, usually with rattlecan primer, then shoot with acrylic enamel w/hardener. If existing paint is still in decent shape, I'll just patch any nicks & such with spot putty, then roughen the paint with scotchbrite pads, then paint. As to the paint, I hardly ever use a rattle can. I much prefer paint guns.
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