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MF7 Executive 3 point hitch


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#31 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted December 28, 2011 - 07:39 AM

Will that looks good. Once you get the long handle on it then it may not be so hard to lift. You'll need to try it with something the same length as the designed lever(handle) to see if it's possible to lift it. You may need to put a gorilla on the back to lift the hitch for you. As an added bonus that will also give you extra traction.:smile1:


Yes Brian, that extra foot(about) will make a big difference. I hope that's enough, I don't like Gorillas. They stink.
I gotta try to figure out some sort of latch to keep that handle fixed, so it doesn't have to be held while driving.
Of course, I don't want to butcher/alter the tractor in any way, to accomplish that.

#32 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted December 28, 2011 - 07:45 AM

Yes Brian, that extra foot(about) will make a big difference. I hope that's enough, I don't like Gorillas. They stink.
I gotta try to figure out some sort of latch to keep that handle fixed, so it doesn't have to be held while driving.
Of course, I don't want to butcher/alter the tractor in any way, to accomplish that.


I wonder if you could bolt something to the frame rail using any existing bolts or open holes. It would have to be quite strong to hold the force on the handle and you need to watch out for a pinching hazard when you latch it. You certainly don't want to cut up that rare and beautiful tractor.

#33 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted December 28, 2011 - 07:58 AM

I wonder if you could bolt something to the frame rail using any existing bolts or open holes. It would have to be quite strong to hold the force on the handle and you need to watch out for a pinching hazard when you latch it. You certainly don't want to cut up that rare and beautiful tractor.



Yep, I'll just have to wait and see, what can be done once I get it on the 7E. Right now I'm mocking it up on the 8E. Same tranny/rear fender. But until I get it on the 7E
that has the frame tin on, not much can be siphored.

#34 DanP OFFLINE  

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Posted December 28, 2011 - 04:55 PM

As far as locking it up for transport could you use a flip over piece of steel to hold the lever up. Have you ever seen how they lock the brakes on an Allis Chalmers WC? If not I can send you a picture.

#35 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted December 28, 2011 - 07:07 PM

I gotta try to figure out some sort of latch to keep that handle fixed, so it doesn't have to be held while driving.
Of course, I don't want to butcher/alter the tractor in any way, to accomplish that.


Will, i assume the handle when "up" should be over center on the lift mechanism. That's how the Sears 3 pt system works. It actually works very well.

Does your Sears have a 3 point on it to look at?

#36 HowardsMF155 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 28, 2011 - 11:17 PM

Hello Will,
My thoughts on this are:
1) Can the lift arms be shortened? It looks like they are rather long.
2) Move the connecting link from the lift arm to the top link further away from the pivot point. Better leverage.
3) To lock the unit up, change the geometry of the lift arm and connecting link so that the lifting arm rotates past the straight, fully lifted position and begins to drop back down.
4) What would happen if you rotated the lift arm further down, so that the lift arm made closer to a half circle when lifting?

Keep us posted.
Howard

#37 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted December 28, 2011 - 11:28 PM

Will, i assume the handle when "up" should be over center on the lift mechanism. That's how the Sears 3 pt system works. It actually works very well.

Does your Sears have a 3 point on it to look at?


I have no way of knowing, if it should go over center.( I'm working on the second prototype-possibly-nothing to compare it to) Judgeing by the picture of leisure
suite larry, holding the handle, I'm thinking it wasn't meant to go over center.

I managed to get the handle made up this evening. Works fine. that bit of extra length
in the handle made the difference, as far as being easy enough to use.

Attached Thumbnails

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  • P1010165.jpg


#38 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted December 28, 2011 - 11:45 PM

What your doing is not easy, trying to make something from a bunch of pictures.
It looks like you got the handle right, I would think that the original would go over center so it could hold it self up.???
These small pictures show the lift up and down but it looks like he's holding it up.

mf-14.jpg

Attached Thumbnails

  • mf-12.jpg


#39 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2011 - 06:08 AM

From your pics, I am not seeing an opportunity for an over-center situation. I was thinking a piece of chain with a large ring to go over the handle, but where would you hook the chain to the tractor? Once it is on the 7E, maybe a solution will show.

#40 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2011 - 07:48 AM

From your pics, I am not seeing an opportunity for an over-center situation. I was thinking a piece of chain with a large ring to go over the handle, but where would you hook the chain to the tractor? Once it is on the 7E, maybe a solution will show.



Yes, we'll have to brain storm a latch once it's on the 7E. I just can't see an over center feature being there from the original design either.

#41 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2011 - 08:08 AM

Hello Will,
My thoughts on this are:
1) Can the lift arms be shortened? It looks like they are rather long.
2) Move the connecting link from the lift arm to the top link further away from the pivot point. Better leverage.
3) To lock the unit up, change the geometry of the lift arm and connecting link so that the lifting arm rotates past the straight, fully lifted position and begins to drop back down.
4) What would happen if you rotated the lift arm further down, so that the lift arm made closer to a half circle when lifting?

Keep us posted.
Howard



Thanks for the suggestions.
Yeah, I thought the hitch assembly, and top link might be a bit long too. I did shorten the top link already, so the "A" frame is parallel to the braces at the tranny.
When I scaled this up, I used leisure suit larry's hand as a reference. Maybe my mitt
is wider than his, and that's how the top link ended up being too long.

I guess you made your post last night, while I was typing mine. The leverage issue
isn't really an issue anymore. It's working fine, with the longer handle. No gorilla
req'd.:smile1:

#42 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2011 - 08:14 AM

Will, I think the best way to over center on this is on the top link lift. In this picture, the piece that is pointing straight back, it it is rotated past the vertical, the weight of the assembly would hold it in place. Put something in between the transmission and the arm to protect the paint until you get its geometry right.

http://gardentractor...h-p1010154-jpg/

Edited by MH81, December 29, 2011 - 10:32 AM.


#43 ckjakline OFFLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2011 - 08:34 AM

Looks good will.Nice job on the repro.

#44 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2011 - 10:11 AM

I was just going through the box of all the left over parts, from the 7E resto, and found
something.
Maybe, I should just use the optional power lift, that they don't really mention
in the brouchure.:D:D:D


Naw, gotta keep it OE. That's off a big old Merc outboard. I've got other plans for it.

Attached Thumbnails

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#45 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2011 - 12:25 PM

OK, finally have 10 seconds to explain my statement from this AM.

What I am about to describe will require removal of the lift arm you just welded on... sorry. double check what I'm saying first.

in the pic below, if you could turn the piece labeled "This one" past the red line and to the black line, the weight would cause it to stay there. "Over Center" if you will.
WILL2.jpg




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