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Cub Cadet 149 Question


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#31 ducky ONLINE  

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Posted December 27, 2011 - 10:02 PM

If I am correct, the terminals on the posted switch should be this:
B= Battery
S= Solenoid
M=Magneto
L=Lights
G=Ground


Upon further searching, I came across this: Ignition switches and Electrical Parts for Lawn Mowers, Tractors.
It explains the terminals on the switch and Part # 430136 (Same as posted above) is for battery ignitions. As you can see, there are several different types with this same plug configuration.


Kenny
Thanks for the link
I think you hit the nail on the head. The "M" terminal is a ground to kill the ignition on a magneto ignition system and the "I" terminal is to supply B+ to the coil to cause the ignition to function. LOTS AND LOTS of different switch configuration out there that appear to be similar but are not, we just need to follow the wiring diagram for the unit you are working with and make sure the switch matches the OEM or move the wire terminal in the switch plug to match the new switch . Just remember not all switches are comparable with any tractor. You need to determine if you have a "Magneto" or a "Coil" type ignition system. This explanation is a bit simplistic as some manufactures have other functions incorporated into the switch as well, but if you remember not to mix the Mag and Coil system you will save yourself a lot of expensive mistakes.

#32 whitelt120 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2011 - 09:49 PM

Well I went yesterday and ordered some parts form my local cub dealer. My new ignition switch should be in on Monday.

#33 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2011 - 11:24 PM

I'll bet you don't regret it. That switch should make it a lot easier to get things wired correctly.
Let us know how it goes.

#34 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2011 - 11:30 PM

Having the right switch takes a lot of guess work and translation out of the equation. Hopefully, now it will all come together.
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#35 whitelt120 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 13, 2012 - 06:01 PM

Well my parts finally came in now all I have to do is tear it down and try again THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP EVERYONE!!!!

#36 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted January 13, 2012 - 06:32 PM

Good Luck! Hope things work okay for you.
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#37 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted January 13, 2012 - 11:14 PM

Yeah, please let us know how it turns out. It's fun to know how the story ends. :smile1:
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#38 whitelt120 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 05, 2012 - 08:19 PM

Yeah, please let us know how it turns out. It's fun to know how the story ends. :smile1:

Well I know Its been a quite a while but I finally got my Cub Cadet 149 Running it was the switch that was the problem but now I hit another bump in the road I have a Really Bad oil leak:wallbanging: That Im noit to happy with.

#39 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted February 05, 2012 - 09:44 PM

Well I know Its been a quite a while but I finally got my Cub Cadet 149 Running it was the switch

:dancingbanana:Yes! We knew you could do it:dancingbanana:

I hit another bump in the road I have a Really Bad oil leak

Do you have any idea where the oil is coming from? The engine or the hydraulics?
These bugs are just part of the game.:smile1:

P.S.
Thanks for the update!

#40 whitelt120 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 07, 2012 - 10:19 PM

:dancingbanana:

Do you have any idea where the oil is coming from? The engine or the hydraulics?
These bugs are just part of the game.:smile1:

P.S.
Thanks for the update!

It is in the engine and I think it is the valve cover or oil breather Im not sure what it is called. I got 1 new gasket but I think I need the other one as well. Do I have to use gasket sealer on these gaskets?

#41 Kyocum ONLINE  

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Posted February 07, 2012 - 11:57 PM

I have never had to use gasket cement on those. They seal up quite well with no cement.
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#42 Amigatec OFFLINE  

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Posted February 08, 2012 - 06:11 AM

On my 129 I had a couple of oil leaks, one was the engine breather wasn't properly installed, their is a hard rubber sleeve that goes over the stud and puts pressure on the reed valve to keep pressure in the crankcase. The sleeve on mine was missing and caused a lot of blowby. The other oil leak was the seal behind the starter pulley was not even in the block, it was spinning on the crankshaft. When I rebuilt the motor I installed the new seal in first, it was loose enough I slid it in by hand, I then took the old seal and installed it behind the new one and used silicone sealer to glue it in, it hasn't come loose yet.
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