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Cub Cadet 149 Question


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#16 whitelt120 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 17, 2011 - 08:18 PM

we3ll i haven t had any time to work on my 149 because for the past week i have been insulating my garavge once i get it done ill go back to the 149 ill let you no for sure when i get a chance to work with it

#17 whitelt120 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 21, 2011 - 10:34 PM

Well I used a test light and it wasn t lighting up. Does this mean I have no power to the coil, if so how do I fix it?

#18 caseguy OFFLINE  

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Posted December 22, 2011 - 06:56 AM

Test light on the positive terminal of the coil, wire end clipped to a good ground, key switch on? If so, the key switch is either defective or wired incorrectly.
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#19 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted December 22, 2011 - 04:04 PM

Take a piece of 16ga. or larger wire and run it directly from the positive post of the battery to the positive post of the coil. I would take the original wire off of the coil first. If the engine runs with this hooked up then there is something wrong with the switch circuit. If it doesn't run than you need to check the coil, points, condenser, plug, plug wire, or the wire between the points and the negative side of the coil. Your condenser does not need to be grounded to work.
Let us know how it turns out and we can go from there.
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#20 whitelt120 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 26, 2011 - 05:32 PM

Well I did what you said and it worked! it has a spark now, but idk what i should do next. Thanks for the help!

#21 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted December 26, 2011 - 06:31 PM

Don't know if this will help but I'll post it. This is the wire schematic:
Color108WireDia.jpg
Might let you see what all is wired into that circuit.
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#22 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted December 26, 2011 - 07:12 PM

The easiest thing to do next is to find out if you have power to the back of the ignition switch. That would be what looks like the green wire on the diagram. If not you need to take that wire off of the switch and run a hot wire from the battery to that terminal and see if your switch is good. It would be a good idea to place a fuse in this wire as strange things can happen and you don't want to start an electrical fire. I'm guessing at this point that your Neutral safety or PTO safety switch is bad or one of the control levers is in the wrong position. Just remember when you wire around the safety switches that the mower can start with the blades engaged (take the deck drive belt off) or the tractor will not need to be in neutral to start (pull the spark plug wire before trying to start the engine).

Edited by Cvans, December 26, 2011 - 07:21 PM.

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#23 Amigatec OFFLINE  

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Posted December 26, 2011 - 07:41 PM

There are 2 safety switches on that tractor. There is one on the brake rockshaft under the transmission cover and another one on the PTO control under the dash on the righthand side. These are wired in series so both have to be closed before the starter will spin.
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#24 Delmar OFFLINE  

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Posted December 26, 2011 - 08:03 PM

I had this very same scenario, I couldn't get 12 volts to my coil on the cub 100, just needed to clean up the tabs on my key switch, a little sanding goes a long way. hope this helps.
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#25 whitelt120 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 26, 2011 - 08:51 PM

The guy that I bought it off of wired around the safty switches already. He rewired it all and now its just a big ball black tape and wires all wraped together. I also had to replace the old switch and the one I have on it may be the problem it looks like this
430-173_2_C.jpg but the old one only had 3 prongs for the battery, starter, and, ignition I think

Attached Thumbnails

  • 430-334.jpg

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#26 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted December 26, 2011 - 09:33 PM

This brings up a whole new fur ball. Your going to have to use an ohm meter and find out which terminals have continuity when. With the key is off your test light should only light on the "B" terminal. When you turn the key to the first position you should have continuity between "B" and one other terminal. That's the terminal that would go to the + side of the coil. When the key is placed in the start position you should still have continuity to your coil terminal and one other. This would go to the small screw on the solenoid and engage your starter. When you release the key the only continuity you should have is between "B" and the coil terminal. When the key is off you should have no continuity between any of the terminals that you are using. This will kill the engine and power down anything that is running.
If this isn't clear let me know and I will try and reword it.
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#27 whitelt120 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 26, 2011 - 10:15 PM

Its kind clear I think I understand most of it. if it is off the battery wire is hot if i turn it over 1 2 wires are hot and in the start position all the wires are now hot wires once release from start position it should only the first 2 wires would be hot

#28 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted December 26, 2011 - 11:03 PM

With the test light. In the off position only the "B" terminal should light. This wire should come from the negative side of the amp meter.
In the run position the "B" terminal and one other terminal should light. That other terminal should go to the positive post on the coil.
In the start position the "B" terminal and the coil terminal plus one other terminal should light. This third terminal should go to the small screw on the solenoid.
When you shut the tractor off, only the "B" terminal should light. There should be no power to the other terminals.
If this doesn't work out for you, you might want to consider the purchase of another 3 terminal switch.
I'm basing these instructions on the hopes that the "B" stands for battery.
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#29 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted December 27, 2011 - 12:38 AM

If I am correct, the terminals on the posted switch should be this:
B= Battery
S= Solenoid
M=Magneto
L=Lights
G=Ground


Upon further searching, I came across this: http://www.jackssmal...ep_switches.cfm
It explains the terminals on the switch and Part # 430136 (Same as posted above) is for battery ignitions. As you can see, there are several different types with this same plug configuration.

Edited by KennyP, December 27, 2011 - 12:48 AM.

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#30 whitelt120 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 27, 2011 - 09:24 PM

That could be my Problem when I look it up once someone said m = motor and s = starter




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