Jump to content

Nominations for Tractor of the Month
Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

Cub Cadet 149 Question


  • Please log in to reply
41 replies to this topic

#1 whitelt120 OFFLINE  

whitelt120

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 5024
  • 17 Thanks
  • 119 posts
  • Location: Illinois

Posted November 10, 2011 - 08:14 PM

Here is some pictures of my coil does it look like it is wired up right? My cub still doesen t have a spark I may have it wired up wrong. I have no idea what I am doing.If you could help I would be very thankful.
GEDC1574.jpg

Attached Thumbnails

  • GEDC1582.jpg
  • GEDC1579.jpg
  • GEDC1575.jpg
  • GEDC1580.jpg
  • GEDC1583.jpg
  • GEDC1578.jpg
  • GEDC1572.jpg
  • GEDC1576.jpg
  • GEDC1569.jpg
  • GEDC1571.jpg


#2 Cvans ONLINE  

Cvans

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 5412
  • 4,473 Thanks
  • 5,009 posts
  • Location: Eastern SD.

Posted November 10, 2011 - 10:04 PM

Try this. Remove the wire from the positive side of the coil. Run a wire from the positive side of the battery to the positive side of the coil. This will bypass your switch and anything else that is in that circuit. DO NOT run the engine this way as it will be very difficult to stop the engine once it is running. Now turn the engine over and see if you have spark. The negative side of the coil should run down to the points.
What are you trying to show us in the photos of the plug wire?

#3 MH81 ONLINE  

MH81

    Proud to be Deplorable

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 802
  • 27,249 Thanks
  • 28,599 posts
  • Location: N. W. PA

Posted November 10, 2011 - 10:30 PM

One other thing... what's the second (yellow) ground wire going to? If you have 2 "grounds" (one thru the points, and one to ground) you will never get spark.

#4 Kyocum OFFLINE  

Kyocum

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 6171
  • 280 Thanks
  • 402 posts
  • Location: Central N.Y.

Posted November 11, 2011 - 12:14 AM

Like I said in my other post are you sure that 12 volts is present at the coil. Turn the key on and check the red wire on the coil for 12 volts. If there is no voltage present with the key on there is your problem. One other thing to check is that the point wire does not have a bare spot and grounding on the cover. BTDT Al the the yellow point lead and condenser attach to the same terminal on the coil. The porcelain on the coil I see is pretty chipped up where the high tension lead goes on. The coil might be no good. I would buy a new internal resistor coil and a new condenser and start from there.

#5 EricFromPa ONLINE  

EricFromPa

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2135
  • 2,292 Thanks
  • 2,328 posts
  • Location: Bedford County Pa.

Posted November 11, 2011 - 12:33 AM

That Plastic switch will not work.It's no where near heavy enough to sustain the Constant 12-14 volts and 200-300 amps needed to crank it over and Supply power to the coil.
New Switches are available,Bob may have a few in stock.
http://bobsgardentractors.com/

Starting at the points.
1 Wire will go from the points to the Coil.Under the Nut holding the Points wire will be the Condenser wire.So 2 Wires on the Negative side of the coil is correct.

Here is a Nice wiring Diagram.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 115171.jpg

Edited by EricFromPa, November 11, 2011 - 12:51 AM.


#6 MH81 ONLINE  

MH81

    Proud to be Deplorable

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 802
  • 27,249 Thanks
  • 28,599 posts
  • Location: N. W. PA

Posted November 11, 2011 - 02:08 AM

Thanks guys, somehow my brain didn't see the condenser wire in the other pics... Duh.

:ditto: to all above possibilities, also if the condenser isn't grounded...

As Kyocum said, is there power to the coil+? Test light should do to tell us. Clip lead on the neg pole of the battery, probe on the coil +, turn the switch and the light should come on. We need to verify this to know where to help from here.

The process Cvans describes is another way, it tests the rest of the circuit. If spark then, it almost has to be supply circuit (switch, wires, etc) that has a fault.

#7 JDBrian OFFLINE  

JDBrian

    Super Moderator

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2507
  • 9,574 Thanks
  • 14,136 posts
  • Location: Hubley, Nova Scotia - Canada

Posted November 11, 2011 - 07:26 AM

All I can add is check the points! Whenever you don't have spark and the external things check out they should be at the top of your list. They could be stuck closed or out of adjustment.

#8 Kyocum OFFLINE  

Kyocum

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 6171
  • 280 Thanks
  • 402 posts
  • Location: Central N.Y.

Posted November 11, 2011 - 08:17 AM

I didn't even see the plastic key switch. It might not even have the right terminal configuration for the application. Looks to me like the wiring harness has been hacked and spliced a few times. It would save you a lot of headaches in the long run and buy the correct wiring harness. I might even have a good used harness in the garage I might part with.

#9 EricFromPa ONLINE  

EricFromPa

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2135
  • 2,292 Thanks
  • 2,328 posts
  • Location: Bedford County Pa.

Posted November 11, 2011 - 08:17 AM

If you take the Points cover off and you are getting power to the points and it's still not firing then your Condenser is shot.They cost around $5.00 so it's not a big deal.

#10 JDBrian OFFLINE  

JDBrian

    Super Moderator

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2507
  • 9,574 Thanks
  • 14,136 posts
  • Location: Hubley, Nova Scotia - Canada

Posted November 11, 2011 - 12:30 PM

That Plastic switch will not work.It's no where near heavy enough to sustain the Constant 12-14 volts and 200-300 amps needed to crank it over and Supply power to the coil.
New Switches are available,Bob may have a few in stock.
Welcome to Bob's Lawn and Garden Tractors


The switch does not supply the starting current. It only has to supply the current to bring in the solenoid. The solenoid contacts carry the large starter motor current. Most of the ignition switches are rated for 10-30 amps.

#11 Kyocum OFFLINE  

Kyocum

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 6171
  • 280 Thanks
  • 402 posts
  • Location: Central N.Y.

Posted November 12, 2011 - 06:47 AM

So do you have any news on the 149 not firing. Inquiring minds want to know. LOL

#12 MH81 ONLINE  

MH81

    Proud to be Deplorable

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 802
  • 27,249 Thanks
  • 28,599 posts
  • Location: N. W. PA

Posted November 12, 2011 - 08:02 AM

So do you have any news on the 149 not firing. Inquiring minds want to know. LOL


:ditto:
How're you making out?

#13 Cvans ONLINE  

Cvans

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 5412
  • 4,473 Thanks
  • 5,009 posts
  • Location: Eastern SD.

Posted November 12, 2011 - 10:57 AM

:yeah_that:

#14 whitelt120 OFFLINE  

whitelt120

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 5024
  • 17 Thanks
  • 119 posts
  • Location: Illinois

Posted November 12, 2011 - 11:13 PM

thanks everyone for the help! Ill work with it and ill let you know what happens

#15 whitelt120 OFFLINE  

whitelt120

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 5024
  • 17 Thanks
  • 119 posts
  • Location: Illinois

Posted November 12, 2011 - 11:15 PM

The plug wire pics were accidentally uploaded. there is no reason why they are on there




Top