Jump to content

Nominations for Tractor of the Month
Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

314 or 317


  • Please log in to reply
150 replies to this topic

#46 Deere Green OFFLINE  

Deere Green

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 7192
  • 24 Thanks
  • 126 posts
  • Location: NE

Posted November 23, 2011 - 12:30 PM

Any idea where the oil was coming from. Those are a pretty big lump of iron.


not yet...need to get the fly wheel off tonight. any tips on that? other rebuilds i have done you just had to beat the crap out of it. i soaked it with lube overnight to try to help but any tips would be usefull. and i will be tearing at this thing tonight so would need tips this afternoon if anyone has some. thanks

#47 Deere Green OFFLINE  

Deere Green

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 7192
  • 24 Thanks
  • 126 posts
  • Location: NE

Posted November 23, 2011 - 12:32 PM

Even though that's a good thing it being a Series II, remember if it was a Series I, it has survived about 30 years. I do think the Series I has gotten a bad rep - there are still a lot of Series I engines running strong, even after 30 years. My theory would be, after 30 years, it really doesn't make much difference if it's a Series I or II - it it's still the original engine, they have survived fine after all these years.


I would totally agree with your theory, I really like the idea of the fully presureized system though. thing still ran like a beast. ordered a new gasket set for it so that when it goes back together it is basicly rebuilt.

#48 Deere Green OFFLINE  

Deere Green

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 7192
  • 24 Thanks
  • 126 posts
  • Location: NE

Posted November 23, 2011 - 12:34 PM

i will try to get a pic tonight but the u joint looks like it may have a little damage. are parts like the u joint on the shaft easy to find? anyone have a parts manual on this dog?

#49 Tmo OFFLINE  

Tmo

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2023
  • 356 Thanks
  • 486 posts
  • Location: Missouri

Posted November 23, 2011 - 12:51 PM

I would totally agree with your theory, I really like the idea of the fully presureized system though. thing still ran like a beast. ordered a new gasket set for it so that when it goes back together it is basicly rebuilt.


I really can't argue about a fully pressurized lubrication system, so I will cede that point.

#50 JDBrian OFFLINE  

JDBrian

    Super Moderator

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2507
  • 9,574 Thanks
  • 14,136 posts
  • Location: Hubley, Nova Scotia - Canada

Posted November 23, 2011 - 05:58 PM

i will try to get a pic tonight but the u joint looks like it may have a little damage. are parts like the u joint on the shaft easy to find? anyone have a parts manual on this dog?


If you go to JDParts.com and do a model search for 317 you can access the parts diagrams and check cost and availability of parts. If you register at a JD dealer you can place parts orders online and then have them shipped to you, or to avoid shipping costs you can pick them up at the dealer. Works well for me!

#51 Deere Green OFFLINE  

Deere Green

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 7192
  • 24 Thanks
  • 126 posts
  • Location: NE

Posted November 24, 2011 - 12:28 AM

IMAG0646.jpg
So the leak is coming from the oil seal on the flywheel side see attached. Do I still need to split the crank case?

Attached Thumbnails

  • IMAG0645.jpg


#52 Deere Green OFFLINE  

Deere Green

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 7192
  • 24 Thanks
  • 126 posts
  • Location: NE

Posted November 28, 2011 - 10:50 AM

Well I have been plugin away at this thing and it has been a lot of work and a ton of fun.
Got everything stripped down and cleaned up this weekend and was wondering if I can use a paint remover on the block to get the black paint off the half that they could reach so I can repaint it? Let me know what the vast knowledge out there says on trying to do something like this. Well here are some pictures.

IMAG0650.jpg
First, this is what a little Midwest brain power can do to come up with a flywheel puller tool. You give a man a welder and some scrap and there is no telling what you can come up with.IMAG0644.jpg

This is what I was talking about on the shaft. Any worries or just leave it and move on?IMAG0660.jpg

Attached Thumbnails

  • IMAG0652.jpg
  • IMAG0653.jpg
  • IMAG0659.jpg
  • IMAG0648.jpg
  • IMAG0657.jpg
  • IMAG0658.jpg
  • IMAG0656.jpg
  • IMAG0655.jpg
  • IMAG0654.jpg
  • IMAG0649.jpg


#53 JDBrian OFFLINE  

JDBrian

    Super Moderator

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2507
  • 9,574 Thanks
  • 14,136 posts
  • Location: Hubley, Nova Scotia - Canada

Posted November 28, 2011 - 10:59 AM

Thanks for the pictures. The driveshaft is only available as an assembly from JD and is over 200$. Ouch! If the ujoint is toast you might want to try to get it repaired or get another used one. It's hard to tell what condition it is in from the picture. You need to assess it based on how much wear or damage is evident when you try to rotate it.

#54 olcowhand ONLINE  

olcowhand

    Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Sponsor
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 20
  • 35,657 Thanks
  • 29,842 posts
  • Location: South Central Kentucky

Posted November 28, 2011 - 12:03 PM

It "appears" that the U-joint is shot. Looks like one of the caps & spider legs is worn way past usable point. Paint remover should work fine, but don't let it get to any gaskets or rubber surfaces.

#55 Deere Green OFFLINE  

Deere Green

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 7192
  • 24 Thanks
  • 126 posts
  • Location: NE

Posted November 29, 2011 - 09:57 AM

have the crank split so i tried the paint remover and it would not work worth a darn, wonder if the fact that it is 20 some degrees out caused an issue? guess i will give it a shot in the heated garage tonight. we will see. picked up some heat resistant paint and want to have a little fun with this one.

#56 olcowhand ONLINE  

olcowhand

    Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Sponsor
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 20
  • 35,657 Thanks
  • 29,842 posts
  • Location: South Central Kentucky

Posted November 29, 2011 - 10:04 AM

Most any chemical reaction is slowed dramatically by below freezing temps. If it's an epoxy based paint, remover may not work at all....not sure.

#57 Deere Green OFFLINE  

Deere Green

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 7192
  • 24 Thanks
  • 126 posts
  • Location: NE

Posted November 30, 2011 - 12:23 PM

Here is a before picture with the paint that was sprayed on where they could reach. I will get a picture tonight of it cleaned up.
IMAG0661.jpg

Was looking at the drive shaft a little further last night and does anyone know the size of the t or the yoke (don't know the actual terms) so I could talk to a machine shop about a replacement because the side not shown in the picture is completely missing the spacer or whatever holds the thing tight in the actual joint itself (doesn't allow play).

One other item that I realized is that one of the engine mount locations that ties back into the what I am going to call the mounting cradle that is mounted to the frame is cracked off. This is what probably cause the drive shaft damage. Was going to add a strip of steel to the bottom and tap the bottom of the case as well as epoxy it in to repair this. Anyone have any other ideas on this? This is the area I am talking about.
IMAG0652.jpg

#58 Deere Green OFFLINE  

Deere Green

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 7192
  • 24 Thanks
  • 126 posts
  • Location: NE

Posted December 01, 2011 - 10:01 AM

IMAG0664.jpg

One side almost done...

Going to clean all the bolt heads and spray them yellow. Plan is to clean the intake and carb items and paint them with a chrome.

Attached Thumbnails

  • IMAG0663.jpg
  • IMAG0665.jpg


#59 bhts OFFLINE  

bhts

    Bob's Lawn and Garden Tractors

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Sponsor
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 945
  • 1,415 Thanks
  • 2,118 posts
  • Location: ohio

Posted December 01, 2011 - 10:26 AM

The driveshaft can not be repaired and will require a new or used one.You can also cut the old joint off and weld a new one on just make sure it runs true.As for the block i would look for a new block.What you say may work but that looks like the starter side and will have the torqu from the starter and flywheel always pulling it and may do more damage down the road.This is just my thoughts and some of the other guys may have some better ideals.If you need replacement parts i have a block and driveshafts here if needed.

#60 Deere Green OFFLINE  

Deere Green

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 7192
  • 24 Thanks
  • 126 posts
  • Location: NE

Posted December 01, 2011 - 11:45 AM

The driveshaft can not be repaired and will require a new or used one.You can also cut the old joint off and weld a new one on just make sure it runs true.As for the block i would look for a new block.What you say may work but that looks like the starter side and will have the torqu from the starter and flywheel always pulling it and may do more damage down the road.This is just my thoughts and some of the other guys may have some better ideals.If you need replacement parts i have a block and driveshafts here if needed.


Will you PM me with the price for the drive shaft shipped to 68022




Top