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Snapper 1650 Rebuild, my first (Pics)


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33 replies to this topic

#16 achomesteader OFFLINE  

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Posted February 23, 2012 - 08:20 AM

It's coming right along nicely. Looking forward to the finished pics.
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#17 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted February 23, 2012 - 10:19 AM

Britt, the tractor is coming along nicely! I missed your last few posts on it, so was wondering what route you took with the spool valve shaft?
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#18 daytime dave OFFLINE  

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Posted February 23, 2012 - 12:42 PM

Yes, it sure is looking good. You've made nice progress I'd say.
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#19 jc56 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 23, 2012 - 12:55 PM

Hey man...looking GREAT!!!Looks like you are coming down the backstretch now.Some day I'll do one those complete restores!!!Keep the pics coming!!!jc
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#20 coldone OFFLINE  

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Posted February 23, 2012 - 08:22 PM

so was wondering what route you took with the spool valve shaft?


I tried the welding first, figured if I just tacked and let it cool and then tack some more the heat wouldnt be an issue and it wasnt. But either that spool is stainless or my welding sucks or both. I got good penetration on the donor piece but did not get any bonding on the spool part. I was using 3/32 6011 rod at about 70% current. My welder is one of the old cheap sears 110V stick welder with a slide for the amp control, max amps is 125A.

I was extremely worried about the heat, so my setup was clamping both pieces to a piece of angle iron for alignment and to act as a heat sink. I also had a wet rag handy to wrap the spool in about an inch behind the weld. I did not want to quickly cool the welded area itself for fear of cracking and distortion since I had two dissimilar metals. If the welds would have held I would have been happy with the repair. I wanted to try this route for two reasons, 1: to do as much as possible myself 2:not were out my welcome with my machinist buddies. The machinist i have access to are great guys and they usually dont charge me anything even though i have tried to pay them each time. They have pulled me out of jams at work more than once. I have the ability to use lathes and mills (crudely) and i have even offered to do the work myself if they would let me near their machines, but i found out thats like asking to date their underage daughters. Neither of them drink so I cant even pay them with beer!

Anyway, i hope to have the spool repaired soon and then i can atleast crank it up and smell some exhaust!

#21 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted February 24, 2012 - 06:37 AM

Good to see some progress here. Hope you get the spool like you want. Good luck!

#22 coldone OFFLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2012 - 09:51 PM

The spool valve repair is 95% done! Got it back from my machinist yesterday. In talking with him he suggested leaving the new piece the sam diameter as the body, that way you would have more "meat" for both the inner screw connector and for when I drill the hole for the pivot pin. We also decided to leave the new piece long so it could be cut to fit. Originally I wanted a 5/16 stud for the connector but he believed that 1/4 would work just fine and if I needed to go bigger in the future I could.

I am hoping to have time this weekend to get this installed and get the lever fabbed up for it.


DSCF2773.JPG DSCF2775.JPG DSCF2776.JPG DSCF2777.JPG DSCF2772.JPG

ETA: The two looking at the ends head on are an optical illusion. Both pieces are the same diameter but the one on the left is closer to the lens than the one on the right.

Edited by coldone, February 28, 2012 - 09:52 PM.

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#23 coldone OFFLINE  

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Posted March 25, 2012 - 08:55 PM

Just a quick update.
After the last post, I was able to get the engine in and get it fired up. Thought i was on the home strech for having done and out of the shop. Once i got the engine going everything was great until I gave it some throttle. The dredded shakes came back. It was so bad that the the front end would walk sideways. I tried everything, the timing was perfect, the carb adjusted well, compression checks, etc. Everything was normal. Over several days I tried getting the shakes on video but it never was as bad as the first time. The engine still acted strange and you could hear that something wasnt right. I decided to pull the engine and remove the balance gears, just heard too many bad things about and thought it would be a simple job. Everything i had read stated that there was no need to tear down the engine to get them out. I pulled the oil pan and removed the lower gear with no problem, then i went to the upper gear. After fighting with the cheap snap ring pliers for a while i finally got the ring off the stud. Then I tried to remove the gear. It would not come off, there is a casting in the way and I was about two teeth off from having the narrow part of the gear line up to where it should be to be able to remove it. The little casting was ground down so that the gear should have cleared it, but the gear wasnt in time to do that. I had to pull the piston and crank to get the upper gear out.

I am guessing that whoever was in there before didnt have the balance gears timed right. I know somebody had been in there before because there is RTV on every gasket.

So the engine is still apart and waiting on a gasket set before I put it back together. I hope this puts an end to the shakes.

#24 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted March 26, 2012 - 10:00 AM

Sure sounds like your getting to the end of solving that shake problem.
I hope it works out.
We'll need to see some pics soon. :-)
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#25 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted March 26, 2012 - 10:18 AM

I rebuilt 1 Kohler K341 and I removed the balance gears but just like you said the 1 gear comes out no problem. To get the other gear out I had to pull the crank, no other way to do it.
For sure if the balance gears are not timed properly with the crank, it's going to make things worse and shake more.
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#26 Enginerod OFFLINE  

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Posted March 26, 2012 - 08:14 PM

Its probably not for everybody but you can get the second balance gear out by determining the position where it almost comes out and remember which teeth on the gear keep it from coming out. Then turn it to where you can get at those teeth ( its only one or two) and knock them off with a chisel. They actually break off easily and they don't shatter into pieces so clean up is easy. I'm sure some people will call this hacky but It worked for me and I wouldn't do anything that would cost me more work later. Hope this helps. Bill.
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#27 coldone OFFLINE  

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Posted March 26, 2012 - 10:06 PM

We'll need to see some pics soon. :-)


Nothing to take pics of ATM except parts laying everywhere. Besides I am almost ashamed to put pics up of my shop after seeing yours, I dont even have a sink!
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#28 HowardsMF155 ONLINE  

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Posted March 27, 2012 - 08:13 AM

Looking forward to seeing what you''ve done there. I hear there is a big farm show in Denton NC every year. Do you ever go and would you ever take a tractor to show?

#29 coldone OFFLINE  

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Posted March 27, 2012 - 09:25 AM

I love that place. My first time going was roughly 1983. The train only had about 300 yards of track. I got to spend the full week there in 1985, I was 13. A group of local guys used to go and work and dispaly there tractors and such. My cousin was one of them and he invited me for the week. Ever since then I have been hooked, but havent been able to go much. I havent been in about 6 years. You see alot of stuff there, some you have no idea what it is and others you stand and watch in amazement.

I wouldnt take any of my stuff and show there. I doubt I show any of my stuff, it just isnt that special. I have a local place that does a little something in the fall and I might show it there. Its only 4 miles from the house.

Here is the link to the old time threasher convention:
http://www.farmpark.com/seot.html

Here is a smaller one closer to you. It used to be mostly locals, now it has grown alot.
http://www.silkhopen...ed-farmers-day/

#30 coldone OFFLINE  

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Posted April 05, 2012 - 07:48 PM

I took today off from work to try and make some progress on my projects. I have the 1650 and the D200 I am working on at the same time. I left off with pulling the engine in the 1650 because of severe shaking. I got the balance gears removed and was waiting on a gasket kit to show up.The gaskets showed up before the diff for the D200. So I started putting the engine back together today, nothing too suprising its just been a long time since I had an engine totally torn down. I got it all back together and on the tractor and gave her a test run. The shakes are ALOT less severe now, but it was still shaking and not running right. I was running it without a muffler so this time I saw flames shooting out the exhuast. not just one or two little puffs, flames!! I let it cool off and pulled the head to check the valves. Sure enough when I test the valve seal I get alot of bubbles. I plan on lapping the valves, I thought I wouldnt have to, they looked good. My homemade compressor didnt work on these valves today so i will have to get a compressor to finish the job. Maybe this long weekend or next week I can get it done.




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