These two photos show how I control the oil flow and the plumbing. Ugly!
First is the 1/2" ball valve to stop the flow. Next is a fine threaded 3/8" metering valve. This is very important as a small change in the flow creates a huge difference in the burn rate. Don't be tempted to leave this out unless you want to burn your shop down!!!!
These are mounted to a 50 lb. freon tank that is mounted to the side of the top barrel. This is the oil reservoir. I have a sludge, water drain in the bottom and the oil feed line extends up into the oil a couple of inches to keep out any water or crud that gets into the reservoir. I think this tank holds about 7 gallons and is enough to last a long day in the shop even when it is below zero outside. As the oil warms you will need to turn down the metering valve.
You can see that there isn't much smoke coming from the tail pipe.
When starting on a cold morning I open both valves all the way and put a "LITTLE" air pressure in the tank to get the thick oil to start flowing. This is done through the vent hole 2" pipe cap on my filler opening.
I know this is starting to sound a little complicated but it only takes me about 5 minutes to start the stove in the morning and being a double barrel stove it is heating in short order. I usually fill two 2 1/2 gallon oil jugs to refill the reservoir in the evening before I close up for the night. A lot easier to do when the shop is warm.
I have been using this same barrel stove for 30 years. Original barrels. I think I paid $19.00 for the kit at TSC and has turned out to be a very good investment. Just remember to keep the stove a safe distance from anything combustible. This waste oil burner is something that I have developed over a number of years. If you choose to reproduce any part of it for your use, you do so at your own risk.
Edited by Cvans, October 27, 2011 - 06:20 PM.