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Knocker is still Knocker


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11 replies to this topic

#1 BillTheTractorMan OFFLINE  

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Posted October 27, 2011 - 09:22 AM

In summery I put it back together and back in the tractor last night. I got it fired up and right away it knocked, only difference is now it only knocks at lower rpms until about half throttle.


Crank has been checked, it's with in specs. Rod has been replaced, and wristpin checks out. I'm sure I checked for piston slap but found none. It's not ignition or carbon build up, just cleaned the head and piston, ignition can not be adjusted.


Any ideas? I'm going to check crank end play and piston slap again when I get home from school.

#2 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted October 27, 2011 - 10:10 AM

Are you positive the rod cap is on the right way? if on backwards, the little splasher can hit the case.

#3 BillTheTractorMan OFFLINE  

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Posted October 27, 2011 - 04:28 PM

I checked everything multiple times, every thing is put back in correctly.

#4 ckjakline OFFLINE  

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Posted October 27, 2011 - 04:53 PM

Any possibility that a bolt that is to long going through shroud and hitting flywheel.I've had that happen on a tractor i got in non running cond.Got it running and it made one heck of a noise.Bottom bolt for shroud was to long,and hitting flywheel.Just throwing this out there as a possibility.Good luck

#5 BillTheTractorMan OFFLINE  

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Posted October 27, 2011 - 06:09 PM

I believe its piston slap now.


I took the head off after a little electrical fire piston was at TDC, pushed one side (valves side) and it pushed down.... Pushed the other side and it went down. Turned the engine over by hand and the knock sent out it's ugly vibrations. Centered the piston and turned the engine over and the knock went away.


So, now....

I know I will need rings, but will I need a piston? I'm thinking I will need a wrist pin too so I'm thinking whole assembly?


Than since I'm doing that I guess I have to hone it too?



#6 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted October 27, 2011 - 06:42 PM

I had an old Briggs engine that had a similar knock. Once I tore it down, I discovered one of the piston skirts broken off, causing such a slap. Bore was still within specs, so I just ordered a complete piston kit....piston/rings/wrist pin/circlips. Runs great. It's the engine in my Unico 15.

#7 BillTheTractorMan OFFLINE  

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Posted October 28, 2011 - 03:57 PM

It's looking like machining it is the only option. With that I will need an over sized piston assembly, and all I can find is .01 over for $150 before shipping. I can't afford that and machine it. Does any one have an idea where to find a .01 over piston assembly under $100 for this?


Thanks.

#8 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted October 28, 2011 - 05:36 PM

You probably already checked but does it have any end play?
Suppose to be none.

#9 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted October 28, 2011 - 07:57 PM

Bill do you think the bore is worn or the piston ? Al

#10 ducky OFFLINE  

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Posted October 28, 2011 - 08:08 PM

Bill do you think the bore is worn or the piston ? Al


This all needs to be checked to make sure you have an engine back together in specs.

#11 BillTheTractorMan OFFLINE  

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Posted October 28, 2011 - 09:04 PM

everything is to spec other than either the piston or bore, or both.


The engine does not smoke or burn any oil, but yet it's so worn the piston is flopping around in there. I have almost exhausted all of my places to barrow precise measuring tools, and I can't take the engine into school to use those tools now either. I hope napa or o'reilly's rents out bore gauges

There is no end play

#12 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted October 29, 2011 - 10:32 AM

I watched a fellow hone my 327 Chevy years ago after it was bored for oversize pistons , he took each piston without the rings on put it upside down in the bore and us a feeler gauge to get check the pistion & skirt to bore clearence , I think you might be able to get some kind of idea doing that by checking the piston in different locations & positions , Al
  • EricFromPa said thank you




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