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Snapper 1855 -Attempt to start part2 Marvel Schleber DD Carb-Advice Please


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#1 slingblade OFFLINE  

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Posted October 25, 2011 - 05:43 PM

Well everyone thank you so much so far for all of your suggestions with the no-crank issues. It was the forward pto switch that was faulty and I had to re-install the original solenoid.

This tractor has been sitting for quite some time. This is my first time looking at an Onan engine. (B48M) I have never touched a MS carb before. Can I unscrew the top to attempt to clean? I dont have any intake gaskets yet, so I would like to at least try to get the old girl running before I have to order a ton of parts. Can I use RTV silicone for intake gaskets? It looks like it has to be removed to get the carb off...any carb tune-up/cleaning advice/tips would be very appreciated.

#2 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted October 25, 2011 - 06:44 PM

You can do the cleaning with it mounted, but as you know, much better if removed. No, you cannot use any form-a-gasket in place of the gasket. It would squeeze into the jet areas & clog them right off. Unscrew the topit the float will come with the top section. Just use a thin blade when you go to remove the top to release the gasket from the bottom of the carb. Once you get that off, then take & post some pics so we can see what you are up against.

#3 coldone OFFLINE  

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Posted October 25, 2011 - 10:01 PM

Take it off to clean it. I have had a great learning experience with my DD carb. I thought I had it clean but I was wrong, then I thought I had missed a passage but i was wrong again. The first time i missed the idle "port", not the jet but the actual port that feeds the idle circuit. The link to that is at the bottom of this post. I put it back together but still had problems with getting it adjusted. I still had to use about half choke to get it to run. Finally had time to take it back apart to find out what was wrong. Everything was open and clean, gaskets looked good. On a SWAG I placed a piece of 400 grit sandpaper on a flat piece of steel plate, I took the upper half of the carb and lightly sanded the mating surface of it to see if it was warped. It was, severely. It took a awhile but I got both the upper half and lower half mating surfaces flat again, the made a gasket out of thicker material. The carb works great now.

So definately take it off and clean it and check the mating surfaces. If it has the composite float, look at changing that out too. Another area of head ache for the onans is the intake manifold. Its a two piece design that is sealed with RTV like stuff. That seal can sometime break away and let air into the manifold.

Here is the link to my ordeal with the idle port.
http://gardentractor...sues-pics-7614/

Hope it helps
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#4 slingblade OFFLINE  

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Posted October 25, 2011 - 11:03 PM

Here are some pics as requested. It has the composite float, now is the time to ask about ordering a carb kit. There is a place called Gary's parts I think, do you recommend a certain kit?

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#5 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted October 26, 2011 - 04:10 PM

Any of Gary's DD kits are fine. You will have to order the brass float separate, as it never comes in a rebuild kit. Gary has those also. Just a good cleaning should do you fine. Be sure to take the fuel inlet plate off the carb side. Usually fines will collet in there, then later break loose in chunks, hanging up the needle or blocking fuel. Do check for flatness as Coldone said.
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#6 coldone OFFLINE  

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Posted October 26, 2011 - 06:50 PM

You may not like Garys intake gaskets. They seem to be single use. I had to take my intake off multiple times and could not reuse the gaskets. I got some thick gasket material from NAPA and started to make my own. Other than that one down side I have used his other gaskets and and kits and been happy with them.
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#7 slingblade OFFLINE  

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Posted October 28, 2011 - 11:07 PM

Thanks Guys,

I ordered a carb kit and brass float from Gary's today, and also picked up some gasket material. So it'll be a week or so before I get the parts.
Then I will be asking for more help on this carb. Back to the 1650 now.

#8 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted October 29, 2011 - 07:58 AM

You may not like Garys intake gaskets. They seem to be single use. I had to take my intake off multiple times and could not reuse the gaskets. I got some thick gasket material from NAPA and started to make my own. Other than that one down side I have used his other gaskets and and kits and been happy with them.


Even the intake gaskets from Cummins are the gray graphite covered gaskets which come apart when disassembled. The original gaskets from a few years back were perforated metal with fiber inside that could be used over & over. I assume they are NLA.

#9 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted October 29, 2011 - 08:07 AM

Years ago I helped with a fellow's stockcar and he would coat both sides of his gaskets ( old style fiber type ) with wheel bearing grease because so he could reuse them a few times before having to replace them , I still do that with my carb gaskets , Al
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#10 ducky OFFLINE  

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Posted October 29, 2011 - 09:05 AM

Years ago I helped with a fellow's stockcar and he would coat both sides of his gaskets ( old style fiber type ) with wheel bearing grease because so he could reuse them a few times before having to replace them , I still do that with my carb gaskets , Al


Good idea Al.

#11 slingblade OFFLINE  

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Posted October 29, 2011 - 11:18 AM

Good idea Al.


I agree, already this morning before coffee I have been taught something new

#12 slingblade OFFLINE  

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Posted November 15, 2011 - 08:24 PM

Hello everyone,
well I have cleaned the carb and installed the carb kit, I have also taken apart and cleaned the fuel pump(it is seperate) from the carb. The pump has fuel up to it, but do I have to prime the system somehow to get it flowing?

#13 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted November 15, 2011 - 09:06 PM

Hello everyone,
well I have cleaned the carb and installed the carb kit, I have also taken apart and cleaned the fuel pump(it is seperate) from the carb. The pump has fuel up to it, but do I have to prime the system somehow to get it flowing?


It should start pumping as soon as the engine is cranked over. If it doesn't, you must still have a problem with the pump if the vacuum hose is good and good fuel flow to the pump.

#14 slingblade OFFLINE  

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Posted November 16, 2011 - 12:52 AM

the vacuum line was ok, I changed it anyway. Still no fuel, the pump appeared to be ok inside..installed a different pump(mikuni) also looked ok inside..still nothing. So I must have 2 bad fuel pumps. I popped the top off of the carb and filled the float bowl with gas. My carb rebuild was successful it ran for almost 5 minutes..does anyone recommend a certain fuel pump? Or should I get an end cover for my carb and add the integral pump? So I am excited that this beast runs, and the rear hitch worked, I haven't tried movingit yet.

#15 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted November 16, 2011 - 06:18 AM

Never messed too much with those vacuum fuel pumps but maybe there is a problem with the vacuum "pulse " . Do you have a vacuum gauge you could put on the line to get some readings ? Al




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