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Snapper 1855-No start advice wanted


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#1 slingblade OFFLINE  

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Posted October 24, 2011 - 04:52 PM

Ok..I have a good battery. I removed the old ignition switch(had a bad terminal-the green one). I replace it with a used switch-so this is what happens. Ihave checked for power at the solenoid but it doesnt give power to the starter when the key is turned. There is power at the signal wire at the swith but not at the solenoid. Would this indicate that the ignition switch is no good? The PO has also disconnected all safety switchs and twisted the wires together. The oil pressure guage wire has also been cut-I can't seem to figure out where the switch for it is located.
Any help would be very welcome.
Thanks.

#2 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted October 24, 2011 - 05:14 PM

Are you sure the used switch is correct for battery powered ignitions? That wouldn't prevent the starter engaging if it's the wrong one, but it would prevent the ignition from getting power. Now for the starter. The solenoid, if like most, MUST have a good ground at it's mounting point to work. If the ground is good, and the 12V is making it to the engagement terminal on the solenoid, then the solenoid is bad. Oil gauges were not std equipment, but can be added. The sending unit is all but impossible to get to with engine mounted. Looking at the oil filter, the sender will be right behind the filter, just above it. You may be able to access it somehow by removing the filter, but you'll need small hands!
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#3 slingblade OFFLINE  

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Posted October 24, 2011 - 08:00 PM

Thanks Daniel,

ok I ran a jumper from the battery to the starter and it turned over.
The switch is the same 5 terminal indak from a sears ss16, it may not be good.
I'll take the one off of the 1650 as I know that it is good. I tried another solenoid and still no power to the switch terminal.
So it appears to be the ignition switch.
I'll have a look at that sending unit..I dont have small hands..but I have kids.
Thanks again for the input..baby steps on these beasts

#4 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted October 24, 2011 - 09:35 PM

Glad you are headed on the road to repair.

I dont have small hands..but I have kids


That's great, by the way... :laughingteeth:
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#5 slingblade OFFLINE  

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Posted October 25, 2011 - 12:42 AM

Ok I installed the good ignition switch, and double checked the 3 safety switches(all over-rode)..still no power to the signal on the solenoid..?? Could this indicate that both solenoids that I have tried are faulty? If I run direct from battery to starter it still turns over..so now I have 2 snappers half ripped apart in the garage.

I actually don't know what was wrong with either unit, other than they were taken to a repair shop and given estimates and never claimed.(seperate owners) The 1650 has a stripped input shaft and now needs front rims. (somebody borrowed them)
I am assuming starting or carb issues with the 1855 as it had the aircleaner and the shield off of it.

#6 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted October 25, 2011 - 02:25 AM

Sound like it's test light time ( or volt meter ). I am assuming that the solenoid not working means it's not clicking at all.

1) probe on start pin on solenoid, clip on ground on battery, turn key, should have light. If no light, move probe to start term on switch, if light now, then replace wire between switch and solenoid or bypass of safety switches done wrong. If no light on either, bad switch, blown fuse, connectors in harness.

2) if light at pin on solenoid and solenoid not clicking, move probe to mounting leg of solenoid. Should never have light, light here would designate bad ground at solenoid mounting or bad chassis ground... But IDT you have a bad chassis ground, because the starter wouldn't work on bypass as you were able to do above.

3) If everything checks out above, make a jumper from the batt in on solenoid to start pin on solenoid ( I am assuming a 3 connection solenoid here, not 4) and the solenoid should trip + starter should turn, if not, I'd suspect your positive battery cable. I've had them corrode enough to not work right.

Let us know what you find. Good luck.

Edited by MH81, October 25, 2011 - 06:59 AM.

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#7 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted October 25, 2011 - 06:17 AM

When I got my Ford, I had that challenge. The PTO switch had 5 pins on the back. Two of those were connected into the starting circuit. I had to change out that PTO switch as it would not make contact when the PTO was in the off position. Not sure if this will help or if yours is wired this way. But I think most tractors with an electric PTO would be.
PTOSwitch.jpg

If your switch looks similar to this at the back, the two red pins should let power to the solenoid when the switch is off. Keeps you from starting with the PTO on. Yours may be different.
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#8 limebuzz OFFLINE  

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Posted October 25, 2011 - 07:24 AM

When I got my Ford, I had that challenge. The PTO switch had 5 pins on the back. Two of those were connected into the starting circuit. I had to change out that PTO switch as it would not make contact when the PTO was in the off position. Not sure if this will help or if yours is wired this way. But I think most tractors with an electric PTO would be.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]23652[/ATTACH]

If your switch looks similar to this at the back, the two red pins should let power to the solenoid when the switch is off. Keeps you from starting with the PTO on. Yours may be different.


Same thing happend to my 1655 this spring!Had me baffled or a couple day!
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#9 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted October 25, 2011 - 07:46 AM

I was scratching my head for a while, too. I tried all kinds of tests trying to figure which switch was causing the problem. Finally found a wiring schematic and saw the PTO switch was part of the starting circuit. Used a jumper across those wires and it turned over just great. Luckily, I had another PTO switch that worked and put it in. Good luck with it!
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#10 slingblade OFFLINE  

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Posted October 25, 2011 - 01:23 PM

Great thanks guys! Ok it's something to do with the front pto switch, all other switches were over-rode except for that. I jumped the terminals on it and she turned over..I think I may have a pto switch from something else, either that or I'll borrow the one from the 1650. Are these switches specific to tractors? Or could I get one from somewhere like Harbour Freight or our Canadian equivalent Princess Auto?

#11 slingblade OFFLINE  

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Posted October 25, 2011 - 01:48 PM

I managed to get it to turn over and it did sputter for a couple of revolutions.

Now it has decided to not stop cranking when the key is off??? I had to disconnect neg cable from the battery

#12 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted October 25, 2011 - 03:52 PM

Now it has decided to not stop cranking when the key is off??? I had to disconnect neg cable from the battery


If it does this when the wire from key to solenoid is disconnected, then the solenoid is hanging up. Common enough to happen. When it does this, try whacking the solenoid & see if it lets go.
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