Jump to content

Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay

- - - - -

Deere wont start..

  • Please log in to reply
24 replies to this topic

#16 ckjakline OFFLINE  



  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 6073
  • 1,140 Thanks
  • 1,131 posts
  • Location: Lititz,Pa

Posted November 02, 2011 - 05:31 PM

Is the engine flooded?Wet plug again?

#17 ducky OFFLINE  


    Senior Member

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 564
  • 1,989 Thanks
  • 4,108 posts
  • Location: Freedom, WI

Posted November 02, 2011 - 08:51 PM

I got mine going with just repairing the points. I later replaced the coil, points, condenser and push rod. I kept getting different resistance readings from the coil secondary which didn't seem like a good sign to me. It's started fine ever since.
If you got good spark and fuel then I guess you need to check air, compression and timing.

JD has some good thought here.
In order to make a fire you need AIR, FUEL and IGNITION. If all three are there you will have a Bang. If all happen at the correct time you can drive the tractor.

#18 lyall ONLINE  



  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2180
  • 2,180 Thanks
  • 1,577 posts
  • Location: State Center, Iowa

Posted November 02, 2011 - 09:04 PM

good spark -okay
wet - plug
it could be to float is stuck open and flooding it - time to clean the carb and check it out. check the throttle shaft for play. if it moves around a bit you might need to put a brushing in for the throttle shaft. I went to ACE hardware and found brushing 1/4"id 7/16" od washers - takes 2, get 2 #3-48 screws with lock washer and nuts total cost around $2.00 for all and get some Lock-tite blue tube, not the red tube (you will not get it apart if you use the red). this work for the kohlor carbs #26-30

good luck

#19 pumpkintoter OFFLINE  



  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 2629
  • 11 Thanks
  • 181 posts
  • Location: New Virginia Iowa

Posted November 02, 2011 - 11:13 PM

thanks guys i left the house today back on the road so it will have to wait until i get home again i guess gonna check the timing and figure out how to check the timing.. it just really frustrates me that it was running like a top shut it off was gone a few hours now nothing.. grrrrr

#20 JDBrian OFFLINE  


    Super Moderator

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2507
  • 9,646 Thanks
  • 14,158 posts
  • Location: Hubley, Nova Scotia - Canada

Posted November 03, 2011 - 06:30 AM

There are marks on the flywheel to check the timing. The points gap adjustment is the timing adjustment. If everything is new, points and push rod, and the cam is OK then when you set the gap to .02 the timing should be right on. I think sometimes the rods can get worn and maybe stick, causing problems. I've heard some of them are made of plastic. That could be an issue. Good luck getting it sorted out.

#21 Gibby OFFLINE  



  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 4886
  • 96 Thanks
  • 360 posts
  • Location: Butler County, Pa

Posted November 03, 2011 - 09:18 AM

Could be a stuck valve also.

#22 peters OFFLINE  


    New Member

  • New Member
  • Member No: 5189
  • 3 Thanks
  • 8 posts

Posted November 03, 2011 - 09:49 AM

Could the gas be bad, or have water in it?
If it is old gas without stabilizer it could be junk.
Might want to drain everything (including carb bowl) and try fresh gas.

I'd shoot some starter spray directly into the carb to see if that ignites.

If flooded keep the choke and throttle both wide open and try cranking a bit. Then shoot in some starter spray and see if it ignites.

If still nothing I would check double timing and points and make sure you have nice hot spark.
Touch the points up with a fine file to remove any nibs and check gap. Should be .020".
If spark is weak check battery voltage during cranking to be sure it is ok. Might want to check voltage at coil/points during cranking too.
Low voltage or bad connection somewhere could cause weak spark problems; Could also be a coil that is on its way to failure.


#23 Chuck_050382 OFFLINE  



  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 32
  • 275 Thanks
  • 1,498 posts
  • Location: Mt. Vernon, IL

Posted November 03, 2011 - 02:40 PM

Sound like my k341 over the winter, exhaust valve was the problem on it, I replaced the valve and all was well, like Gibby said the valve could be stuck open from a piece of carbon or something.

#24 JDBrian OFFLINE  


    Super Moderator

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2507
  • 9,646 Thanks
  • 14,158 posts
  • Location: Hubley, Nova Scotia - Canada

Posted November 03, 2011 - 03:19 PM

Good call on the stuck valve. The clue there would be no compression. When I brought home my MF8 it had no compression. I thought a valve could be stuck so sprayed some penetrating oil in the plug hole and let it sit. The next day after cleaning the carb, I cranked it for a while and put in a fresh plug and away it went. The problem with these Kohlers is that if they are not de carboned once in a while the exhaust valve area tends to have a lot of buildup. This could stick the valve if some of the carbon breaks away. You may have to pull the head and have a look.

#25 Trav1s ONLINE  


    My projects take longer so I enjoy them more...

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 5472
  • 3,522 Thanks
  • 4,499 posts
  • Location: Cedar Rapids, IA

Posted November 03, 2011 - 03:50 PM

Sticky valve is a great suggestion.

A short story to make a point - The first winter I had the 110 I put Seafoam in the gas, ran the carb dry and shut it off 'til spring. When spring arrived I turned on the gas, choked it and it started right up. Then I noticed a wisp of smoke coming from between the head and block, right above the muffler. Turned out the head gasket started leaking after the Seafoam I added the previous fall went to work on the carbon in the combustion chamber. I ended up pulling the head, cleaning the carbon off the top of the piston, lapped the head and reinstalled it with a new head gasket. I torqued the bolts to spec, ran it until hot, let it cool and gave it a retorque. The engine runs better, starts easier and seems to use less oil.

Someone told me that the head should be removed, lapped and installed every 500 hrs on the K series. I don't know if that is true.