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Deere wont start..

2K views 24 replies 13 participants last post by  Trav1s 
#1 ·
my ol 316k wont start it seems to be getting spark and fuel but it just wont start. if i choke it fully it will pop but still wont fire. anyone have any idea where to look? the fuel pump is pumping and its got spark..

i drove it parked it now nothing :confuse:
 
#4 ·
Maybe while your changing the plug you might take a compression test or just try keeping a finger over the spark plug hole while cranking , just ground the plug wire , it bites ! Al
 
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#5 ·
If the plug is wet you may have an ignition problem. I'd check the points. I had my 314 refuse to start and that's what the problem was.
 
#8 ·
Not sure if you solved your problem. But I'd check the points over before I'd worry about a new plug. If it wont light off for a few seconds after giving it a shot of either, but it will go pop at least once, then I would suspect points. That is where you will loose most of your ignitions voltage. It is possible to clean and re gap points, but I usually just replace and re-gap. Napa auto parts has Kohler points for less $ than Deere does FYI.
 
#9 ·
140 said:
Not sure if you solved your problem. But I'd check the points over before I'd worry about a new plug. If it wont light off for a few seconds after giving it a shot of either, but it will go pop at least once, then I would suspect points. That is where you will loose most of your ignitions voltage. It is possible to clean and re gap points, but I usually just replace and re-gap. Napa auto parts has Kohler points for less $ than Deere does FYI.
Havent made it home yet im due to be home this weekend.. im gonna do just that points and plug and go from there..

when i go to napa what numbers do i need to give them for the right points?
 
#10 ·
Just tell them it's is a Kohler k341 (just a guess as that is the 16 horse Kohler). If they need the exact model I believe it is a K341AQS. Those points fit most K series anyway. They'll have a book that they can look up that engine and it'll tell them a bunch of the commonly replaced parts and part numbers. Like air filter, plug, points, condenser.... you get the just of it. If my memory serves me correct, someone over at WFM was having a spark issue and they discovered that their condenser had loosened up causing a bad connection, you may check that too. Heck check all ignition connections while you're at it. Sure won't hurt any. Good luck.
 
#11 ·
140 thats a good point about the connections. The way these Kohlers vibrate it's possible for something to come loose. When my 321 would not start it turned out to be the points were barely opening. It had run like that since I got it but then refused to start. I regapped them and got it going with the old ones until I got new parts. The coil and the condenser cases both have to have a good electrical connection to the engine for the ignition to work properly.
 
#12 ·
A bad coil made my 120 hard to start and it eventually would stall when it got hot. Swapped in the coil from the 110 and all is well. Definitely check the points and the color of the spark.
White/Blue = good
Anything else = bad/weak
 
#15 ·
I got mine going with just repairing the points. I later replaced the coil, points, condenser and push rod. I kept getting different resistance readings from the coil secondary which didn't seem like a good sign to me. It's started fine ever since.
If you got good spark and fuel then I guess you need to check air, compression and timing.
 
#17 ·
JDBrian said:
I got mine going with just repairing the points. I later replaced the coil, points, condenser and push rod. I kept getting different resistance readings from the coil secondary which didn't seem like a good sign to me. It's started fine ever since.
If you got good spark and fuel then I guess you need to check air, compression and timing.
Scott
JD has some good thought here.
In order to make a fire you need AIR, FUEL and IGNITION. If all three are there you will have a Bang. If all happen at the correct time you can drive the tractor.
 
#18 ·
good spark -okay
wet - plug
it could be to float is stuck open and flooding it - time to clean the carb and check it out. check the throttle shaft for play. if it moves around a bit you might need to put a brushing in for the throttle shaft. I went to ACE hardware and found brushing 1/4"id 7/16" od washers - takes 2, get 2 #3-48 screws with lock washer and nuts total cost around $2.00 for all and get some Lock-tite blue tube, not the red tube (you will not get it apart if you use the red). this work for the kohlor carbs #26-30

good luck
 
#19 ·
thanks guys i left the house today back on the road so it will have to wait until i get home again i guess gonna check the timing and figure out how to check the timing.. it just really frustrates me that it was running like a top shut it off was gone a few hours now nothing.. grrrrr
 
#20 ·
There are marks on the flywheel to check the timing. The points gap adjustment is the timing adjustment. If everything is new, points and push rod, and the cam is OK then when you set the gap to .02 the timing should be right on. I think sometimes the rods can get worn and maybe stick, causing problems. I've heard some of them are made of plastic. That could be an issue. Good luck getting it sorted out.
 
#22 ·
Could the gas be bad, or have water in it?
If it is old gas without stabilizer it could be junk.
Might want to drain everything (including carb bowl) and try fresh gas.

I'd shoot some starter spray directly into the carb to see if that ignites.

If flooded keep the choke and throttle both wide open and try cranking a bit. Then shoot in some starter spray and see if it ignites.

If still nothing I would check double timing and points and make sure you have nice hot spark.
Touch the points up with a fine file to remove any nibs and check gap. Should be .020".
If spark is weak check battery voltage during cranking to be sure it is ok. Might want to check voltage at coil/points during cranking too.
Low voltage or bad connection somewhere could cause weak spark problems; Could also be a coil that is on its way to failure.

--Peter
 
#24 ·
Good call on the stuck valve. The clue there would be no compression. When I brought home my MF8 it had no compression. I thought a valve could be stuck so sprayed some penetrating oil in the plug hole and let it sit. The next day after cleaning the carb, I cranked it for a while and put in a fresh plug and away it went. The problem with these Kohlers is that if they are not de carboned once in a while the exhaust valve area tends to have a lot of buildup. This could stick the valve if some of the carbon breaks away. You may have to pull the head and have a look.
 
#25 ·
Sticky valve is a great suggestion.

A short story to make a point - The first winter I had the 110 I put Seafoam in the gas, ran the carb dry and shut it off 'til spring. When spring arrived I turned on the gas, choked it and it started right up. Then I noticed a wisp of smoke coming from between the head and block, right above the muffler. Turned out the head gasket started leaking after the Seafoam I added the previous fall went to work on the carbon in the combustion chamber. I ended up pulling the head, cleaning the carbon off the top of the piston, lapped the head and reinstalled it with a new head gasket. I torqued the bolts to spec, ran it until hot, let it cool and gave it a retorque. The engine runs better, starts easier and seems to use less oil.

Someone told me that the head should be removed, lapped and installed every 500 hrs on the K series. I don't know if that is true.
 
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