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#16 bhts OFFLINE  

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Posted October 28, 2011 - 08:04 PM

does it have the big plate that mounts the cylinder? As for the rods they can be made i will need to measure one and get the mounting holes dims for you.The rods are just 1 x 1 cold roll steel rods

Edited by bhts, October 28, 2011 - 08:18 PM.


#17 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted October 28, 2011 - 08:42 PM

Here's a pic of a complete assembly
minus the plate that attaches to the transmission cover:h1.jpg

#18 Guest_jdecker94_*

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Posted October 28, 2011 - 09:09 PM

no square rods included. i couldnt take the motor off and get the rods, i had like 30 mins to get it off the tractor, get the tractor and everything loaded and reassemble the snowblower lol. some flat steel should be suitable.

#19 bhts OFFLINE  

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Posted October 28, 2011 - 09:41 PM

no square rods included. i couldnt take the motor off and get the rods, i had like 30 mins to get it off the tractor, get the tractor and everything loaded and reassemble the snowblower lol. some flat steel should be suitable.


No just any flat steel will not work as these were made to take place of the spacers.If you were to use just any flat steel then all the belts would not fit.

#20 bhts OFFLINE  

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Posted October 28, 2011 - 09:46 PM

Umm,there are no square rods to mount under the motor


As long as you have the mount for the cylinder the rods can bee made.I belive i may have a set but if not i can measure them for you and send the mearsurments to you or canmake a set for you.If you don't have the plate for the cylinder i know i have one of those if you need it.

#21 OldBuzzard OFFLINE  

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Posted October 28, 2011 - 09:51 PM

Mounting the Lift is fairly easy. You will need to remove the drive belts to get the hydro belt put on.


These pictures may be of some help to you


If you don't want to go to the trouble of removing the belts, you can do what I did with my G10, and use one of these:
High Performance Composite Belting - PowerTwist Plus, NuTLink and SuperTLink - Fenner Drives

100_4037.jpg

They aren't cheap, but the time and effort that it will save you will make it worth it.


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#22 Guest_jdecker94_*

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Posted October 28, 2011 - 10:04 PM

the belts arent hard to take off, and i believe the belt was a bolens brand so it does add originality points.

#23 Macgyver ONLINE  

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Posted October 29, 2011 - 07:25 AM

So it looks like I need a few more pieces.I was under the impression the lift cylinder bolted to the frame,guess I need that mounting plate too.

#24 Macgyver OFFLINE  

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Posted October 29, 2011 - 07:28 AM

Hey Buzz I see from your pic that you only have 2 belts and that setup looks great.I have 4 belts,I assume I need to take 1 off and replace with pump belt once I get it mounted?

#25 Guest_jdecker94_*

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Posted October 29, 2011 - 07:30 AM

not really, take the 2 drive belts off, then you kinda weasel the pump belt over the spindles and there like a little slot it goes into.

#26 Bruce Dorsi OFFLINE  

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Posted October 29, 2011 - 07:36 AM

More info here:

Hydrolic lift (old style) - Manuals - Garden Tractor Talk - Forums

Hydrolic lift kit newer Model - Manuals - Garden Tractor Talk - Forums

#27 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 29, 2011 - 07:56 AM

Hey Buzz I see from your pic that you only have 2 belts and that setup looks great.I have 4 belts,I assume I need to take 1 off and replace with pump belt once I get it mounted?


The picture oldbuzzard is using is off a G10 which only used a single belt for both the high and low range.
The hydrailic lift uses its own pulley groove.
On yours you should have 2 matched pairs of drivebelts that you will have to remove from the engine pulley to slip the hydraulic belt on.

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#28 OldBuzzard OFFLINE  

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Posted October 29, 2011 - 08:48 AM

The G10 is a bit different that the other tube frames. It doesn't have the same drive train. Instead of a clutch, it just uses belt tension. Changing the belts on a G10 is a pretty simple affair. It's NOTHING like the 'standard' tube frames.

If I would have had an earlier G10 I wouldn't have had to use the link belt. But, with the B&S engine, the throttle and choke cable is RIGHT where the belt would have to go. It was either disconnect the choke/throttle, install the belt, re-connect the choke/throttle, or use the link belt and just wrap it around the choke/throttle. The latter, while a bit more expensive, was a LOT easier and faster.

With the earlier G10 it's just a simple matter of removing the single drive belt, installing the hydro belt, and then reinstalling the drive belt.

With the 'standard' tube frames, the "Good Doctor" explains it quite well here:
http://gardentractor...n-tractor-1656/

Edited by OldBuzzard, October 29, 2011 - 08:54 AM.


#29 Macgyver ONLINE  

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Posted October 29, 2011 - 03:23 PM

Thanks for the pics and info on the belts.now all I need to do is get the other parts I need to mount it.The tractor shop up the road from me used to sell Bolens in the 70s,but really has nothing left and not really interested in looking through their NOS for me

#30 Macgyver ONLINE  

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Posted November 06, 2011 - 02:14 PM

bhts,were you able to see if you had the plate and rods I need? or maybe the dimensions so I can make them myself.I was hoping to have this on the tractor already.




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