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#1 ErnRemy OFFLINE  

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Posted October 21, 2011 - 12:37 PM

It took me a little longer to get this one back together. Alot of machining and planning as how I was going to do this. As you can see I have replaced my drive pulleys with b size and larger diameter, I ordered 5 inch pulleys fully expecting to have to grind a little on the mount. As it happens the pulley came in at 4 3/4 the belt might rub at first when it starts but once it tightens and drops in the groove of the pulley all should be well. Since I had the motor out I decided to figure out a way to tighten with out putting pressure on the front motor bushing. This is the best I could come up with. The two plates push away from each other to tighten the belts with out putting any pressure on the motor shaft. While I was at it I replaces all of the spline drive components at the same time. The PTO shaft now has a double roller chain drive coupler( a little over kill) this should give any play and flex to the joining point of the engine and the PTO drive shaft. I had to throw in a picture of my lastest toy and why it took two weekends to complete this project. I drove 1100km(680miles) in a day to pick her up but well worth it. Oh by the way the old spline drives and couplers only have 430 hrs on them if anybody wants to purchase. I have NO need for them I will post pictures, there is the engine drive shaft both sides of the spline and coupler, the top and bottom drive pully couplers- one I cut the pulleys off expecting to just weld new on, there is also the hydro front drive spline... Oh the reason I did this was because the drive pulleys were like razors and I hated the idea of the original tightener. Took her out for a test run she pulls great and with no attachments she'll pull the front wheels off the ground for about half a foot Cool :smile1:

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#2 ducky OFFLINE  

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Posted October 21, 2011 - 12:51 PM

What did you replace the hydro input shaft with? I have not been able to find a replacement with a keyed shaft.

#3 ErnRemy OFFLINE  

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Posted October 21, 2011 - 01:55 PM

The hydro end of my shaft stayed. I made up a coupler and welded the keyed shaft to the hydro shaft. As you can see in the pictures the hydro shaft was solid and the pto shaft is a pipe. The shorter splinted shaft in the pictures is from the engine drive coupler, I machined off the weld and drove out the shaft to replace with the new keyed shaft.
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#4 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted October 21, 2011 - 06:31 PM

Very cool, both the project & the new toy.

#5 tinner OFFLINE  

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Posted October 22, 2011 - 11:21 PM

In the last three pictures is the shaft with splines on one end and smooth on the other the input shaft for an Eaton pump in a 1650? If so, and you would like to sell it, pm me with a price. Thanks.

#6 caseguy OFFLINE  

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Posted October 23, 2011 - 09:38 AM

Looks like some excellent engineering! New toys are always a plus too! Nice work!

#7 ErnRemy OFFLINE  

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Posted October 23, 2011 - 09:58 AM

In the last three pictures is the shaft with splines on one end and smooth on the other the input shaft for an Eaton pump in a 1650? If so, and you would like to sell it, pm me with a price. Thanks.

Sorry Tinner the short shaft is from the engine drive coupler that I machine from the adaptor plate that bolts to the engine output

#8 coldone OFFLINE  

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Posted October 30, 2011 - 09:02 PM

Dont know how I missed this thread.

Great idea and nice work. May end up converting my stuff over in the future.

#9 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted October 31, 2011 - 04:43 AM

That's some nice work,looks good.

#10 ErnRemy OFFLINE  

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Posted November 04, 2011 - 07:02 PM

I think I made a mistake in my post! What I should have said was the only splined end that is on the tractor is the hydro coupler. I still have all the other splined ends that are in the pictures sitting here if any body wants them I don't know how much t o ask for them I know they are hard to come by but I don't want to take advantage of others. I have a snapper 1855 that need to be rebuilt this winter there might be more then, but that tractor has allot more hours on them. I am lucky to have the tools and knowledge how to build what I do ( now if i could only weld better). Look for some info in the future about mower drive pulleys!!!

#11 coldone OFFLINE  

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Posted November 04, 2011 - 08:08 PM

pm sent

#12 TUDOR OFFLINE  

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Posted October 25, 2013 - 04:44 AM

I converted the PTO shaft in my 1655 to 1" keyed shafting almost 30 years ago. Got real tired of buying $52 splined pulleys every 6 months because the splines wore out. It now has all iron pulleys and only 2 have been replaced since, due to close proximity to a heavy cross member. Too close! 

 

The hydro shaft got the same treatment a couple of years later. Used a DoCap universal with a splined coupler inserted in the yoke for the hydro. The original universal had seized.

 

Did anyone know that there is a keyed input shaft available for the Sundstrand? I picked one up on a scrounging trip at a Sundstrand authorized dealer many years ago. I may just put it in if I ever I get working on this beast again. That will get rid of the last splined shaft in the drive train.

 

Making a new PTO came with a major advantage. It now extends far enough out back to add another pulley to drive the auxilliary hydraulic pump behind the seat for the loader without interferring with either the tractor's PTO or the 3PH.


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#13 breimer OFFLINE  

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Posted October 25, 2013 - 09:40 PM

Very nicely done! I like it. This is a true solution to that bearing problem.




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