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David Bradley Project!


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#16 Lauber1 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 13, 2012 - 11:11 AM

im thinking i know the slot your speaking of but wanted to confirm be photo. Both the 560 and 561 had the same handel bar setup, so it would have been easy for them to mix some up when making the bundle. The only reason for this slot would be to get the cable down to the engine. The briggs powered units cable came and went to a differnt area of the engine than the cont one did.

#17 Amigatec OFFLINE  

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Posted April 13, 2012 - 04:43 PM

Here is the slot. If you look carefully you can see the new cable in the slot. I ran it back the way it came out.

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#18 Lauber1 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 14, 2012 - 12:13 AM

yes and if yours was a 561 the cable would come out this hole and up to the carb. Its hard to get the cable to come up out of there.

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Posted April 14, 2012 - 05:16 AM

I do like the book says, I use a small hook and pull the cable though the hole.

#20 sdevine OFFLINE  

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Posted January 01, 2013 - 04:30 PM

Okay Guys-

 

My DB project is finally nearing completion- check out the videos at www.theamericangarage.net

 

I have a couple of questions, maybe you can help. First, the carburetor on my Briggs seems to be leaking- but let me explain: The governor linkage is disconnected (I will get to that in a second), and I am test running it. I pull the chord and it starts right up. Then, it won't get to full speed and then it dies. When it dies, gas drips out of the intake (the filter and pipe are removed) for a couple seconds. So, I am lead to believe that it is running too rich, and flooding out the longer it runs. I did get it to run about 30 seconds one time, but it died and I monkeyed with it only to discover that it was out of gas, but I messed up my needle valve settings by that time. My guess is that the float and float valve are working fine, because it would leak all the time if that was not doing its job. How do I set the 2 needle valves? Am I flooding it? It does start pretty easily, but won't stay running.

 

Now, as to why I have the governor unhooked- well truth be told, I swapped the engine to a newer model 3HP Briggs & Stratton, and I put the old carburetor on it. The gas tank would not fit under the hood, plus it was too small. The holes for the intake were 90 degrees off, so I made an adaptor- that went well. This way I get the look of the old intake and carb and the adjustments that the newer one does not have. So, now I am going to have to fabricate a new governor linkage. I need a simple diagram of what to hook to what. This engine has a pneumatic governor with the wind vane by the flywheel. Can someone help me with a simple diagram?



#21 sdevine OFFLINE  

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Posted January 01, 2013 - 04:46 PM

One thing I noticed is that he never pulled the hubs and checked the rachets. He also says its a 1952 model, but it has the spring clutch, and the motor mount is missing the metal strap were the drawbar goes. It also appeared in his takedown video, that the wheels were held on with nuts and bolts. All of these indicate to me it is a 917.5751 made between 1946-1949.

But in a later video, the hubs have studs and nuts, and the engine shroud is from a later model. In the takedown video the shroud was missing. I think he has at least 2 different tractors that he is working on.

Very Observant! Yes, I have 2 tractors- makes it easier to plan out the programs, or have one apart and the other together for illustration. Yes, this is a first project with the tractors, so you guys will invariably notice things first timers would not. I wouldn't intend to pull the wool over ya'lls eyes, you know all the details. I did pull the hubs off the first one, disassembled and checked for wear. That is the featured main tractor. The second one is so rusted up, that I have not yet wrestled them off. I will finish the second one at a later date.



#22 sdevine OFFLINE  

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Posted January 01, 2013 - 05:15 PM

I dont beleive that we will see this gentleman here again, as he hasnt been here since Oct/11. In my opinon they looking to sell stuff to people more than doing projects. I have watched the four installments and was disapointed that they didnt know much about the tractor(s). I also have some problems with them cruising the net and using pictures of other peoples tractors, some of which are good friends of mine, as ad's for the project.

Not saying that a good DB restoring how to is not needed, but it may be better to have people involved that know something more about the tractors and the work needing to be done. I also noted that there were a least two gas cans sitting 5 or so feet away, while the "Pro" welder worked. I think a little more on safty needs to be addressed.

I'll continue to watch the series, if we get any more, and hopefully it will improve. I take my GT hobby pretty serious, and would like to see it promoted in the same way.

And Steve, if you reappear, dont be shy, plenty of folks here to help you out with problems and where to get parts for DB tractors.

Well Lauber, you won't get rid of me that easily. No, I may not post as avidly as some of the experts here, but I probably won't be building dozens of tractors either. I do appreciate all you guys here, and your wealth of information. I may not know as much as you about the tractors, but, I do have the dilemma of what will a non-builder be able to understand, and stay with. If I got too far out in the weeds with highly pertinent details, I would lose the wanna be beginners. But, perhaps you could shed some light on what parts you felt were important but not addressed, and as I build the second tractor, I could put some 1 minute episodes together to address those topics. As for the pictures I used- first I looked for images with no copyright info. I would be happy to put courtesy notes with the owners names in, but I have no idea who they are. Do understand my dilemma though- I had to illustrate where this was going, with no finished product to photograph. I would very much like to have tractor experts involved in the show- but right now I have no budget to fly these experts in. This is one thing I would like to do in the future when the show has some good sponsorship. Let's see how that goes. In the mean time you will be stuck with me figuring it out as I go. Fear not- the gas cans had no gas in them, in fact I used them to hold antifreeze after a bottle ruptured. I agree though- the average viewer does not have that information when they view the video. Slowly, my garage is turning more into a decent workshop, and less of a catch-all. I plan to address garage organization and safety in the future. You may notice as the episodes progress that the garage gets cleaner and more organized. I will use this in the future. Sorry for my absence! I was busy making money and other mundane tasks. By all means, let me know what you think will make the show better. Currently, I am finishing the last 3 episodes of the DB project, and then we will have a mini project on tilling the land with it and planting a garden. Future subjects related to garden tractors will include food preserving and gardening. We will build other things as well- I am planning to restore my Delta table saw (I have 2 of those too, so some photographic slight of hand may happen there as well), doing some wood working projects, some mechanics projects, perhaps building solar panels from scratch, and this one I thought was interesting- building a gasifier to run an internal combustion engine off of wood. I even saw where a guy made a small one to run his lawn tractor. Any projects related to tractors you would like to see in the future? Thanks for looking at the show.

Stephen



#23 sdevine OFFLINE  

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Posted January 01, 2013 - 05:30 PM

yes if you go back though the posts here you will find where there are 2 tractors, one being a 561 and the other being the 51 model. Not clear if he relizes that alot of the parts dont cross between the two. In the vid it appears that some pictures are of them tearing down one model, then the next are of another model.

For sure i wouldnt have tried to restore a tractor with a broken rear eye, to easy to come by good tractors. I sometime go though the parts to as many as 3 units so that i can have the perfect pieces, as i only want do this once. Now i relize that if you dont have 3 other tractors, then you might be somewhat limited, but still they made 1000's of them, most are still out there, and around this area there pretty cheap, compared to other makes.

You got it Lauber- but I am not crossing the parts between the 2 tractors. I thought that fixing the broken rear eye was an opportunity to introduce metal working to folks. I remain skeptical as to whether or not it will hold under a load, but it did give me an opportunity to plug my one sponsor (they pay me in Alumaloy) I did notice that the tractor parts are not necessarily interchangable. For the record, there are next to no DB's in Texas. I have to wait for vacation trips to the northeast and the midwest to pick up parts and implements. If you know of any stashes in Texas, let me know about them. Looking for a disc, a lawn mower attachment, a drag harrow, and maybe a sulky. I think it is crazy cool how many attachments DB's have.

 

Stephen



#24 Lauber1 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 01, 2013 - 05:33 PM

ok i went and looked at what you have been up to, in the last few months, read the story about the engines. Seems to be a lot of confusion, but i think i see what your heading to. Your now using a 70-80's engine?, with an airvane gov? Was this a suction engine? Some pictures posted here would be helpful in figuring out where you need to get to. I think it would have helped your project if you would have allied yourself with a know collector/restorer of walk-behind tractors. There all over the county, in fact theres at least a dozen good people here who would have been glad to help you out.

 

Briggs made a lot of differnt engines over the yrs, and you can get parts still for most of them. DB used model N and 6's for most of the early tractors, then went to the model 8's for the early super powers.

 

I've been collecting and restoring DB's and other types for more than 20yrs, I dont think any one here thought you are pulling the wool over any eyes, but the continuity of the project is odd, and you could use some help finishing it off.



#25 sdevine OFFLINE  

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Posted January 01, 2013 - 05:42 PM

ok i went and looked at what you have been up to, in the last few months, read the story about the engines. Seems to be a lot of confusion, but i think i see what your heading to. Your now using a 70-80's engine?, with an airvane gov? Was this a suction engine? Some pictures posted here would be helpful in figuring out where you need to get to. I think it would have helped your project if you would have allied yourself with a know collector/restorer of walk-behind tractors. There all over the county, in fact theres at least a dozen good people here who would have been glad to help you out.

 

Briggs made a lot of differnt engines over the yrs, and you can get parts still for most of them. DB used model N and 6's for most of the early tractors, then went to the model 8's for the early super powers.

 

I've been collecting and restoring DB's and other types for more than 20yrs, I dont think any one here thought you are pulling the wool over any eyes, but the continuity of the project is odd, and you could use some help finishing it off.

Let me go take some pics, and I will upload them shortly.



#26 Lauber1 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 01, 2013 - 05:45 PM

if you need a disc i will send you one down. It will need some minor repairs and blasted/repainted. We just have to figure out how to get it to Texas.


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#27 sdevine OFFLINE  

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Posted January 01, 2013 - 06:05 PM

DSC_2711.JPG DSC_2712.JPG DSC_2713.JPG DSC_2714.JPG

 

Let me go take some pics, and I will upload them shortly.

Pictures as promised- the engine is a 70s80s model as you suspected. It came off an edger someone gave me. The number on the engine is 80902 945192 6204230. Like how I painted it? I took the cover off so you could see the air vane. I am not sure what you mean by suction engine. Any collectors in Texas? I would be happy to have their help. This engine has 3 HP so I thought it was a good choice over the original 1 HP. Let me know what holes you see in the continuity of the project- I broke it down into subjects that seemed logical and left out the details that did not fit those objectives.



#28 Lauber1 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 01, 2013 - 06:31 PM

ok im studying it right now and will compare what you need to my brigg master book. Looks very nice so far. A suction engine woiuld be one that used a card mounted to the top of the fuel tank, which by the numbers you posted was what this one started out to be.


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#29 Amigatec OFFLINE  

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Posted January 01, 2013 - 06:38 PM

I think the problem with the motor is the carb isn't big enough. The carb was built for a 1.5 HP motor, and it can't feed enough gas to power a 3 HP motor. You probably have to flood it to start it, and after the extra fuel is gone, the motor is starved for fuel. If you keep looking you can find good running Briggs N or 6's, that will work fine. I bought 3 motors from eBay and had then shipped to me.

#30 Amigatec OFFLINE  

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Posted January 01, 2013 - 06:51 PM

I'll have to go back and watch them again, but I think the not showing the whole process was a problem. The DB's have clicker hubs, and the inner hubs are left and right., by not disassembling these are showing how they work, I think was a mistake. I get a lot of comments at shows about the clickers. Also I think you should disassembled the clutch, if these sit for very long they can stick, and the bushing has a grease fitting that needs to cleaned.
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