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After warming up tractor bogs down and even hardly idle or move


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#16 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted October 18, 2011 - 04:52 AM

There is the possibility the head never got retorqued when the engine was put in.

#17 billy220 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 18, 2011 - 08:19 AM

would that make it come and go. after it starts shaking and bogging down and then i leave it in neutral for a bit it smooths back out until i put it back in drive or turn deck on.

#18 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted October 18, 2011 - 08:57 AM

would that make it come and go. after it starts shaking and bogging down and then i leave it in neutral for a bit it smooths back out until i put it back in drive or turn deck on.


With no load, the low compression isn't as much a problem. Soon as you put a load to it, it will show up. The main thing here is that you see smoke from the carb area. Has to be coming from either the head, blowby out the crankcase breather, or a cracked cylinder.

#19 billy220 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 19, 2011 - 04:18 PM

Well last night i checked the head and was torqued down good. I checked the points which were set at about .018 and i reset them to .020. After that i started it and it idled fine, high speed was fine but mid speed it would miss. I also noticed the spark plugs spark was like a pink color and i put my plug from my JD in it and the spark was the same color. No blue color to it all. I also noticed that the bracket that hold the Coil to the side of motor was arcing between it and the muffler shield. Any suggestions? It would come and go.

#20 EricFromPa OFFLINE  

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Posted October 19, 2011 - 05:00 PM

Do you have another Internal Resister coil laying around?

I totally forgot how a bad coil will act.It's been years sense I've had a bad one.
Try taking the coil off and sand the rust or paint off of the coil and the bracket.If your coil gets to hot to touch it needs replaced.They will cook the oil out of them and they will smoke and possibly explode.Start it up and let her warm up and see if you can touch it without getting a burn.
If your going to replace the coil I would get a new condenser for it as well.

#21 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted October 19, 2011 - 07:43 PM

Well last night i checked the head and was torqued down good. I checked the points which were set at about .018 and i reset them to .020. After that i started it and it idled fine, high speed was fine but mid speed it would miss. I also noticed the spark plugs spark was like a pink color and i put my plug from my JD in it and the spark was the same color. No blue color to it all. I also noticed that the bracket that hold the Coil to the side of motor was arcing between it and the muffler shield. Any suggestions? It would come and go.


The coil needs to be grounded to work, check to see that the case of the coil is grounded to the engine block.

#22 billy220 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 19, 2011 - 08:46 PM

i will be trying the coil sanding and making aure it is grounded tomorrow. sure hope thats it. thnx

#23 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted October 19, 2011 - 08:50 PM

This should be an automotive type coil, so it doesn't have to be grounded, as the points side is the ground. If there are sparks from the coil to the engine, then sounds like the coil has an internal short.

#24 DH1 ONLINE  

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Posted October 19, 2011 - 09:35 PM

This should be an automotive type coil, so it doesn't have to be grounded, as the points side is the ground. If there are sparks from the coil to the engine, then sounds like the coil has an internal short.


I guess I'm wrong again, coil doesn't need to be grounded.

Ignition Solutions for Small Engines and Garden Pulling Tractors

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#25 Grumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted October 20, 2011 - 02:58 PM

Read on the coil. If it has an internal resisror, it dose not need the ballast resistor.

#26 billy220 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 21, 2011 - 07:15 AM

Read on the coil. If it has an internal resisror, it dose not need the ballast resistor.


last night i started it and let it run for about 15 mins and then drove it around for abot 15 mins and then mowed for about 15 mins in wet grass and it never bogged down any like before but still arcing and rough running in mid range. sanding points and readjusting and replacing plug really heelped just the arcing and mid range running problem left. gonna get a different coil and condenser today. thnx so much for all the help.

#27 billy220 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 21, 2011 - 07:19 PM

never got around to getting a new coil but mowed with it for a while and did pretty good. The only two things that bothered me was my throttle lever kept returning back to low speed on its own and in thicker grass the pto lever kept popping out. Any ideas on fixes for these? thnx again so much.5V15O05T43n73k23p6b9n73236347fb4d1ba8.jpg

#28 wildkenny OFFLINE  

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Posted October 21, 2011 - 08:35 PM

maybe the carb. is dirty

#29 Billygoat OFFLINE  

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Posted October 22, 2011 - 04:54 AM

To fix the throttle there are a few ways. One is to put a small kink in the cable, not my choice, but others have done it and don't have a problem with it. Another is to remove the lever assembly and carefully peen the rivet to tighten the pivot point. Another is to remove the rivet and replace with a small bolt and a ny-lock nut, then tighten the nut to get the desired drag on the lever. On the PTO lever, it sounds like you need to adjust the clutch. The procedure is available online and may be in the manuals here.(I haven't looked-yet). Read them about 6 times then adjust the clutch. It takes a bit of patience, but it's not difficult.

#30 Billygoat OFFLINE  

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Posted October 22, 2011 - 06:56 AM

The manual for the clutch is here. Click on "manuals" at the top of the page, select "tractors and implements", select "Case/Ingersoll", select "tractors", and you will find it -E-Z clutch adjustment




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