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trailer ramps - how much can 2 2x10s support?


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#1 dockter OFFLINE  

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Posted October 14, 2011 - 09:49 PM

I got a good deal on a John Deere 318. The seller had a ditch and we loaded it by backing my trailer up to the ditch and he drove it on. I'm guessing the tractor, deck, and rider totaled close to 1200 lbs.

I don't have a ditch at home so I put the ramps on the trailer (2x10s with the aluminum brackets on the end). The pucker factor was quite high driving it down the ramps :) but they held with no creaking.

How stupid was I? I've been planning on beefing the ramps up with some mid span supports but this deal came up quite suddenly.

#2 nra1ifer OFFLINE  

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Posted October 14, 2011 - 09:57 PM

I'd say you are pretty close to the uh-oh point. I use the same kind of ramps, and my GT that makes those pucker is the Speedex 1631. After the 1st time on the ramps, I've always used some add'l supports under the ramps. Better safe than sorry!

You can see the ramps in this picture, taken early last year.

DSCF1923 (Medium).jpg

#3 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted October 14, 2011 - 10:11 PM

If you put some 8" concrete blocks part way up under the ramps, you'd be safe enough. You'd likely get no warning creaking anyway....they'd break right away when they reached their limit. I trust no soft woods. I use full 2" thick white oak. Two 8" wide put together for 16" wide with 1/4" thick angle iron bolted to the ends. My trailer has a groove in the back for the angle iron to sit into for a positive lock. One close call is all I ever wanted!

#4 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted October 15, 2011 - 05:00 AM

Yes,as already said,putting supports ( blocks ) under the ramps is the way to go. That's what I do,and I have no trouble.

#5 Lovintractorin OFFLINE  

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Posted October 15, 2011 - 05:24 AM

Our ramps are wood but are like LVL material. I have yet to see them even flex. I wouldn't trust just a 2 x on anything except the cheap MTD junk made now.

#6 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted October 15, 2011 - 05:37 AM

A lot of challenge with ramps is the angle they are at. How high is the trailer off the ground? I have metal ramps for my trailer, but the floor is about 12" off the ground. I would have a problem using these same ramps to get into the bed of a pickup, as the angle would be much steeper.

#7 Michiganmobileman OFFLINE  

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Posted October 15, 2011 - 05:58 AM

Well said Kenny,

A lot of challenge with ramps is the angle they are at. How high is the trailer off the ground? I have metal ramps for my trailer, but the floor is about 12" off the ground. I would have a problem using these same ramps to get into the bed of a pickup, as the angle would be much steeper.

I have the same two 2x12s that I started with about 12 years ago when I got my first Ford LGT145. I still like to get the lowest slope that I can before driving on them though. For those who have to go steep it would be pretty easy to fasten a hinge to the underside of 2x, then attach a shorter piece of wood to the hinge, short piece should drop down just short of touching the ground when using as ramp, then fold up and put away. No one likes that "Pucker factor" and I know you aint talking lemons.

#8 johnboggs21 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 15, 2011 - 08:08 AM

the best is some 4x12s. A little excessive for garden tractors though lol. But i know theyll handle a allis chalmers HD5 dozer lol. Solid oak of course.

#9 Littledeere OFFLINE  

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Posted October 15, 2011 - 08:23 AM

I know guys that have loaded with 2xs for years and not had any problems
but all it takes is one time that is why I like a trailer .Drop the gate load put the gate up ,win I do load on the truck
I use a pair of rated ramps $150.00 sounds like a lot of money until your trying to climb out from under a 1000 pound tractor

#10 coopduc OFFLINE  

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Posted October 15, 2011 - 08:36 AM

I use these to load my 318 on a trailer. Never a problem
Steel Loading Ramps

#11 dockter OFFLINE  

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Posted October 15, 2011 - 01:43 PM

yeah i should get something like those steel ramps. Looking back on it it was a dumb thing to do. Not the dumbest thing but still not smart. I'll make beefing those ramps up a higher priority for the fall.

#12 1978murray OFFLINE  

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Posted October 15, 2011 - 03:26 PM

2x10s r fine, we use them at work to load tractors onto trucks. my buddy uses a 2x4 and two 4x10s to load his john deere 50,gp, and b onto the trailers. also, i put a piece of particle board over ruts and drive my murray on it and it works fine

#13 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted October 15, 2011 - 03:38 PM

There is a world of difference in the wood that is available. I've seen 2x12's that I wouldn't stand on and 2x6's that would hold two people easily. I'm using 2x10's 7' long and have never had a problem. I did specifically pick them for the job though. They are hard and heavy. I always leave them standing against a building so I don't have to lift them off of the ground. Bad Back. The aluminum ramps are starting to look pretty good though.

#14 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 15, 2011 - 03:45 PM

I use 2x10s, doubled and have no problems at all, MF14, MF16 they don't bend.
Mine have the metal bracket on the end with a bend in it with holes to put a pin or bolt down though so they don't slip of the truck.
Top board is 8ft, bottom board is 7ft and they are through bolted together.

I don't like the store bought metal ramps as I find there too short, longer gives less slope.

Edited by DH1, October 15, 2011 - 03:51 PM.


#15 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted October 15, 2011 - 04:28 PM

I have a trailer with a tailgate /ramp. It works well and had no trouble loading my JD314 on it. It can be a bit steep but has metal cross pieces with gaps between them that allow the tires good grip to climb the ramp. I have seen some scary accidents with people loading ATV's using 2x lumber and the ramps breaking or come away from the truck.




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