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Steering drag link repair. Ideas?


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15 replies to this topic

#1 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted October 14, 2011 - 12:29 PM

I'm sure many have come across one of these factory made drag links that
doesn't have replaceable ends.
If one doesn't have a lathe to make up a bar, and use ball joints, then
going to a machine shop is pretty much the only option.

Has any one come up with any other type of fix?
Just kicking around ideas. Would it work to inject some sort of material
into the worn cavity? Something like epoxy?

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#2 ducky OFFLINE  

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Posted October 14, 2011 - 12:52 PM

Will
Have you thought of a piece of threaded rod and two female thread ends.
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#3 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted October 14, 2011 - 06:11 PM

I've taken the ends and found bolts to fit. Cut the heads of and weld into a piece of pipe. Then you have length adjustment as well.
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#4 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 14, 2011 - 06:53 PM

Ditto on the 2 ideas above. Either one should work.

#5 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted October 14, 2011 - 07:00 PM

I'm grasping for ideas, that would allow me to save the original drag link, as it's off the MF7E I'm restoreing, and I'd like
to keep it as original as possible. It'll be a trailer queen when done, so it won't get alot of abuse, but it would be nice to at least try to
tighten every joint up as much as possible.

#6 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted October 14, 2011 - 07:06 PM

Hmmm... If you could find a rod end that was close to the same diameter as the original drag link you could cut the end off the drag link and weld the rod end on there. Grind and fill it smooth and it wouldn't be noticeable if done carefully. It may be possible to repair the original by pressing in a new end, but I've never done it so I don't know how practical it is.
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#7 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted October 14, 2011 - 07:15 PM

Gonna keep mulling this over. I'm a ways, away from that part being needed.

#8 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 14, 2011 - 07:26 PM

If you stood that drag link up vertically, resting on a vise or anvil, and hit the other end hard with a 2lb hammer maybe it might tighten the joints up a bit.
Just tossing around ideas.

#9 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted October 14, 2011 - 07:35 PM

If you stood that drag link up vertically, resting on a vise or anvil, and hit the other end hard with a 2lb hammer maybe it might tighten the joints up a bit.
Just tossing around ideas.


Trying to tighten it up has crossed my mind. I'll post a pic tomorrow of how it was originally machined, and retained.
Together with your idea, and peening in the original install, that might just be enough

#10 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted October 15, 2011 - 05:09 AM

For a quick fix,I have actually taken a flat washer,split it, and welded it over the ball to keep it from popping out.Now that might sound a little crude,but years ago,I did this one one of my tractors,injected some synthetic grease in it, and it lasted for years.
Just my two cents.

#11 Michiganmobileman OFFLINE  

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Posted October 15, 2011 - 06:07 AM

Yep all good practical ideas above. :yeah_that:
I have taken a small punch and hammer and rolled the edges of the opening in slightly to keep the ball from popping out. Still sloppy but stayed together.

#12 Lovintractorin OFFLINE  

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Posted October 15, 2011 - 06:11 AM

We used to have a JD 111 that had that problem. Periodically had to take a punch and peen the edge over so it would stay. At that time I didn't have all you guys to look for for great ideas.

#13 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted October 15, 2011 - 06:26 AM

Will, since you want to keep it original, can you find a new ball end the same size, take it out of the 'new 'housing and fit into your socket. It might give a tighter fit and allow you to peen the housing to hold it in? Haven't done this, but might work to keep the original link.
I thought I had seen somewhere some that had like a clip to hold the ball into the socket, remove the clip and it came apart.
Just ideas I'm throwing out.

#14 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted October 15, 2011 - 07:12 AM

If you stood that drag link up vertically, resting on a vise or anvil, and hit the other end hard with a 2lb hammer maybe it might tighten the joints up a bit.
Just tossing around ideas.


I've done this on my Sears, only thing I did different, was add lots of heat. Once the socket was cherry, I put the ball in and started shaping. Smacking the end did the most good, but I found if you do the sides first, then vise it there and quickly do the end, my results were better.

#15 Bruce Dorsi OFFLINE  

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Posted October 15, 2011 - 05:56 PM

I have repaired several Bolens drag links by using the peening method. ......90% success rate!

I use a center punch first, then a flat punch to move the metal the center punch raises.

It may not be as good as a new drag link, but sometimes you do what 'ya gotta' do!




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